spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Just been out taching up three saws - a Ryobi (don't ask) a 441 Stihl that I fitted a new cylinder to and the hot 346XP - the 346 now runs like a train, tached at 14,400 - 14,800 rpm with audible fourstroking at this speed. Cut a decent lump of seasoned oak with it and wow - flies through and is faster than mine - bugger - looks like more work on my saw! It was bogging a little as standard on this lump of oak but now - knife through butter and sounds great. Just pulled the plug and bearing in mind it is running at 14.4k, the plug looks a very good colour - ll ready to go back to its owner now who should be a happy man -
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A vacuum/leakdown check will tell you if the crankseals have failed or are beginning to fail. A pressure check will do this also but is prehaps slightly less accurate as the vac test pulls the seals away from the shaft they sit on a little and they will leak if their seal has gone. I know many can't do this check but any saw that comes in for a good look over gets this treatment, it may take a little while to do it but has found problems no one would have ever found with just a visual check - the way I see it is that this is what a customer pays for and I do it for peace of mind. Funnily enough, I have never had an MS200/020T with faulty seals - some older saws on the clutch side have failed though!
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Wahay - thought so, probably need some serious parts now - thought it looked too much like that sort of failure to be anytjhing else. Glad my diagnosis helped.
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Thanks Matty...... If I could inspect it and it looked spanking, I don't think the pricing is too OTT, reckon you would get that sort of cash back on ebay if you sold it. Why is the guy selling it? Worth asking the question - at 12 months I would expect a saw to look almost new, clean bar, decent chain, scabbard etc They are fantastic saws, very revvy, light, decent AV and really rip!
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Usual conversation - "So your saws not working, have you changed the spark plug and air filter"............."Yes"............"ah, thats good, youve just wasted £15":001_rolleyes: Never had a saw fail due to a dodgy sparkplug to date - had holed or dirty air filters but didn't stop a saw starting. I think people like to change the parts they recognise and can do themselves - Joe Public thinks the impulse line is either the new Olympic Underground Line or the drive off the Back to the Future Delorian:001_rolleyes:
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Cheers:biggrin:
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Well, thats a start, saw overly rich, starts fine when cold and then is too rich for when it is warm/hot:thumbup:
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The bloke in the vid is Brad Snelling, he is a very experienced US chainsaw tuner and knows his saws and how to get the best out of them - another guy with a wealth of info:thumbup:
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No worries Fired the ported saw up today, all was going well, holding revs around 14400rpm and then it died with a BLURP, wouldn't rev etc. Got it on the bench - compression felt good - measured 170psi:thumbup:nice The carb has been stripped so my cash was on the breather - the saw had suffered this problem but thought the metering arm being way out was the problem. After a bit of checking, I found the hole from the outer breather pipe connection on the air filter manifold didn't go through to the inside of the manifold:confused1:WTF - gave it a good poke and it was solid - no dirt and looks like a manufacturing fault - drilled it out with a fine drill and reassembled. Checked my own saw and that ws fine - weird I checked the actual breather - middle tube in the picture and that was fine:thumbup:
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Possibly a split carb boot, cracked impulse line - have you pushed the impulse line fully home on the handle. Allignment of the boot has caused issues in the past, fuel filter, fuel pipe, crank seals etc. If you get stuck, I can sort it - Just PM me and we can talk.
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I try to be thorough, it is like anything - just need to get under the skin of the machine and think about the problem. The answer is never far behind:thumbup: Never easy with sketchy details and the machine not in front of you. I am sure your overall knowledge of other garden equipment is far greater than mine will ever be - just specialise in saws but a machine is a machine in my books - just takes a little longer on some!
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Difficult to get to the route cause without further info but here are a few usual suspects: - Low compression - when warm, it lowers and stops the saw starting. Bad coil - plays up when hot (less likely) Blocked fuel tank breather - undo the fuel cap and put it back on - will the saw start better now. Dirty carb - crud in the gauze filter Poorly adjusted carb - is the saw set too rich - causing the flooding Carb needle valve leaking Faulty fast run throttle starting mechanism - you can check this by holding the throttle open and trying to start the saw like this - probably a two man job Loose choke valve - seen this recently - check the tightness of the brass screw that holds the choke valve plate in place Petrol fuel pipe has gone sguidgy Petrol pipe is holed Check the condition and gap of the plug - 25 thou is about normal! Blocked air filter/fuel filter There you go - that will keep you busy!
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The ported 346XP runs - got it together last night and fitted a black unlimited coil tonight - you can see the number 14,100 on the blue limited coil - that is the maximum revs the coil will run at before capping the revs. Not good on a saw that is now capable of running at much closer to the maximum revs of 14,700rpm hence fitting the black coil - it also makes taching the saw much easier.
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Say you will take it down but will need to keep the wood - at least you can claw something back that way. I would make sure you have a copy of the approval - don't want a court order landed on you as well!
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Yes - thats cos Andy is thin, lanky and has bad eyesight:lol:
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Been out in the workshop with the dremmel:thumbup: Yup, a bit of porting. 346XP 50cc cylinder, done a muffler mod on it, now the lower transfers are blended in to the crankcase cut outs, the exhaust port has been opened up, the inlet has been opened and the upper transfer rear has had a very slight amount of metal taken off. All the edges have been radiused just leaving a custom gasket to be made to get the squish right. Should go like a train when done:thumbup:
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Take a close look at the indentations in the piston and see if they are rounded, sharp, symetrical! My money is still on that damn air filter cover screw - I think it is semi circular so should give a rounded indentation here and there if the end broke off - the thing just looks and sounds like the one I have! Is there any play on the ends at all - also got a Stihl 028 with a buggered big end that has bad damage a bit like that!
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Is the screw that holds the throttle valve or the choke valve missing? Other than this, perhaps someone has dropped one of the airfilter backplate nuts down the carb (unlikely) or the big end bearing has started to break down! It may be we were right but the saw continuied to run and the cover has since been replaced!
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These saws were manufacturerd in the day where oil technology wasn't as good as it is now. The mix is dictated by the oil and not the saw, 50:1 is fine.
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That will be the end of the airbox cover screw - the horse shoe shaped bit that clips in to the air filter back plate - half of it will be missing - straight down the carb and bingo - one shagged MS200T. Got one like it my self.....saving it for a rainy day:001_rolleyes: Damn I'm good:biggrin:
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The metal clamp is good news but the main problem with these saws is with the impulse connection pat of the carb boot - see how it goes but make sure that the saw isn't over revving otherwise it may fry the piston:thumbdown:
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I think what we are saying here is that the bar and chain should be in good condition and the chain tensioned correctly to tach a saw - I always ask what bar length is to be used on saws I tach or ask for the bar and chain to be supplied with the saw. I tuned by ear for quite a while but now only tune by ear to do a rough cut tune and use the the tach for the final tune.
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Yeah Yeah - so what, everybody has to have a hobby, they look so nice when they are clean......................
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Just started a porting job on a 346XP, so far have muffler modded it and started work matching the transfer ports to the crankcase but will follow with poting and lowerig the squish. I have added a heat shield to the top cover,
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Hows about as soon as an item is thieved, a maverick or Asram is launched to home in to the tracker unit.....incoming....boom...end of - result:thumbup:
