spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Don't forget to ask loads of questions yourself about how the operation is run, equipment used, methods, workforce etc I have interviewed many hundreds of people and it is the ones that actually have an interest in your business and a bit of spark that stand out. I wouldn't give a load of bull, if you can't answer then politely say you don't know but for future reference can you have the answer. The guy will be looking for reliabillity and someone that has that spark of interest in the job - it far outweighs a know it all IMO. Lastly - if you have your own transport and have responsibillities i.e. hous mortgage wife etc then slip this in as someone with responsibillities will NEED to work and turn up each day. These are basic rules of interviews - Oh - turn up smart casual and not in dirty crap clothes - first appearances are everything! Good luck
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you using old Fish and Chip oil in the chain oil tank??? Perhaps you should have perfumed and talcumed it before use:001_rolleyes: Stubbys smells like Paprika Beef - doesn't it Andy:lol: Mine smells like Cranberry Lamb:thumbup:
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One was fine and rips, the other for some reason is playing up - the bag of bits one is fine, the one I didn't port did a tank ful of petrol when I was tuning it and another on site and then developed a wobbly idle problem:thumbdown: It is on its way back for another look at - sounds like something really simple but we shall see.
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Sorry Matty - someone else has his name on it!
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Here we go, anotr MS200T to srvice, this one had a perfect idle - now that is a surprise in itself.....especially as the plastic carb boot clamp plate was missing:confused1: No idea why and why the saw hadn't died but it is now replaced. Also done the usual, full clean, new piston, thinner cylinder gasket to give it more compression, new sprocket, new AV mounts, new clutch springs, carb clean and new leaf spring in the chain brake. All looks nice now, compression at 160psi and just needs a tune - Meteor piston fitted:thumbup: Also have just started on a 365 Special, keeping the budget as low as possible on the owners request, all looks OK, compression is slightly low at 145psi but the piston and bore look fine so may just fit a thinner gasket to pop the compression up rather than running the expense of a new piston - squish seems pretty large and gives good scope. new airfilter and clutch drum/rim on order - saw hass passed vac test so looks good so far.
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Thanks - always a good insurance policy against disaster:001_rolleyes:
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The earlier models had the metal chainbrake handle - got one of those but it sure doesn't look like this one!
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Pretty good idea that - should diffuse the flash for close ups, I only took these for my own sake as the MS200T handle is one of those components that can give problems - not so much now but still useful for others. I usually try to use natural light or use the zoom but will try the grease proof paper:thumbup:
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Panasonic Lumix - very good camera, one of the best IMO
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I was thinking to sell it as I am doing up a 357 +porting it and there is a limit to what I can put on the shelf as "Keepers" - PM me with a sensible offer and yes, it is very clean. Oh - it is wearing a Jonsered red scabbard now!
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Beat me to it:thumbup: I usually do the bar nuts up tight enough that you an just move the bar tip up and down and then adjust - I pull the chain off the top rail on doing up the bar nuts so it pulls the bar tip upwards on tightening - this stops the bar doing this in use and tightening up after a few cuts.
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Try looking at this - when I took mine apart for the first time, I took a picture:001_rolleyes:
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The 630 is a damn good pro saw and if looked after, will last another 20 years, it shares many parts with Husqvarnas as they were both manufactured in the same factory and are evry bit as good. It will pull a 20" bar easily - here is mine
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Right - the quick fix, turn the L screw anti clockwise 1/4 turn and adjust the idle accordingly, that will fix it but may mask other issues. The bad news is that the symptoms may be a hole in the inlet boot or a cracked impulse line. Personally I would turn the L screw all the way in clockwise and then turn it out 1 turn anti clockwise and try it again, it may just be badly adjusted and 1 turn out is the factory setting. Make sure the air filter is clean. Other things that may be bad - Gauze filter in the pumping section of the carb Blocked breather - just loosen the fuel cap and see if it makes a difference, if it cures the issue - bingo! It could be a holed fuel line, blocked fuel filter, soft fuel line etc. If the saw has a steady idle, it is unlikely to be the faulty accelerator pump in the Zama carb. If you need it looked at - PM me.
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There's always one You could try arboristsite.com, they love the older US saws and many have spares - just need to get it shipped over!
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Should be OK with normal mix of oil to fuel and Aspen should be the same. The saw should run cooler as it will clear the exhaust quicker - one of the US guys proved this on a 026 some time ago.
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Got a strange feeling of deja vu on this one:001_rolleyes:
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From the album: Husqvarna 254 & 262
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From the album: Husqvarna 254 & 262
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From the album: Husqvarna 254 & 262
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From the album: Husqvarna 254 & 262
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From the album: Husqvarna 254 & 262
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Bit of stout card, staple on some very course emery/garnet paper, raise the cylinder away from the lower bar, stick the abrasive paper between the cylinder and the bar, adjust the cutters/cylinder so they lightly touch the paper on both sides, start the mower up and than move the abrasive paper up and down the cylinder by holding the card, Keep lowering the cutter cylinder and moving the card until the cutters are sharp and really gripping the paper. stop and test the edge with a paper cut once the cutters have been lowered a little more. I have heard of people using a bed of sand and throwing it on the cylinder but the method above has sorted a bent cutter on my Qualcast by leveling it off:thumbup: Just take it easy as it isn't very H&S compliant:lol: On the good side, you don't have to remove the cylinder or buy one of those fancy abrasive bars.
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I have a novel way of sharpening cylinder mowers if anyone is interested
