spudulike

You should have a couple of decent MS200Ts now, this one shouldn't play up for this problem again. Got the photos to show you waht I have done:thumbup:

Pressure and Vac tested the saw and it was perfect, stripped the carb and put it in the ultrasonic cleaner and all looked good but within 5 minutes running, straight back to bad running. Accelerator pump issue - stripped modified and re-tested the carb, bingo, one ripping little saw now tached to 13,600 and idling/revving sweetly

Mmmm - what type of biscuits though - chocolate hob knobs are a good compromise between value and yumminess IMO:thumbup:

I would think that on starting, the piston as it slows down after firing and not starting, approaches top dead centre and just about fires and then the piston doesn't reach TDC and throws the piston backwards forcing fuel/air vapour out of the carb air filter. It sounds like your ignition is running too advanced and firing too early - mecanically your flywheel key may have a problem, the coil electronics may be faulty, the coil may be out of position/too close to the flywheel. Bit of a strange one but it sounds like the saw is firing but the piston isn't going past TDC:confused1:

Mmm did one of those hondas a while ago, the arm had sheared where it clamped around the clutch arm. That was after my wife told me it had a choke problem and I had stripped the carb:001_rolleyes: It did go a lot better for it though:thumbup:

Unfortunately it isn't the first time I have heard the same tale - if you get stuck then you can throw it my way but lets see if you can get it fixed yourself but fear that if the dealer has failed it may need a bit more than a carb tweak. The 357 suffers from problems with the carb boot and if it is the EPA model, may have a sod of an automatic decomp valve. It is possible someone has taken off an automatic decomp valve, replaced it with a manual one and failed to plug the connector that comes out of the transfer bulge in the lower cylinder to the lower left of the decomp valve - worth checking, the rich idle may be someone using a rich mixture to get the idle right:001_rolleyes: I guess much of this may go over your head - no disrespect, my one is a converted EPA so can help with advice on this mod if your fault is down to the connetor not being plugged.

Yeah - bloody boomerang saw, it was a war of attrition but I beat it in to submission:thumbup: You got much wood up at your yard, bout time you tried my 346 an 357 - just put a RSC full chisel on the 357:thumbup:

Personally have only had a couple of saws backfire...loudly and were down to sheared flywheel keys. Would imagine any pop through the carb would just evacuate in to the air filter using the path of least resistance thtough the bore of the carb - strange one as the inlet port will be covered during compression and ignition:confused1:

[quote I would say, however, that you might find it a bit lively for your first saw. Thats a bit of an understatement:lol:

It isn't always easy to get the full picture when you haven't got the saw in frot of you. The saw sounds rich especially if the thing is smoking on idle and using lots of fuel. It could be a number of things - perhaps the piston has been replaced, this sometimes makes saws a little smokey before they are run in. The saw piston could have been semi seized and this could be effecting the mix. The carb metering arm may be badly adjusted or the carb may have other issues. I would try the instruction I gave and see how this effects the saw. If you are uneasy about this then if you have a local agent then use them. If you do as I have instructed then let us now what happened. I usually try to fix the issue by giving advice and have had much success by doing this and members have learn't a fair bit. If this doesn't work and you are stuck then you can take it to your regular tech if you have one and as Mozza says I do carry out repairs on request but generally don't pursue repairs unless members ask......nicely:thumbup:

Cheers Andy - electronics hat on tonight:thumbup: I can do double glazing and ccd camera vision hydraulic presses as well:001_rolleyes:

Try running it over with the Landie:lol: There should be a black wire connected to a lug just inside of the front handle mount. the earth should also be connected close by and to the rear bolt on the AV mount - sorry Anular Buffer as Stihl call them:001_rolleyes: If this looks OK, you really need to pop of the recoil and use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the black wire end to end to make sure it is 1 Ohms or less and if this looks OK then it will be the switch assembly needs cleaning/sorting inside the handle. If the local dealer hasn't resolved the problem then throw it back to him to fix, it should have been fixed and tested - isn't that what you paid for:confused1:

Probably running rich on the idle setting - try turning the L screw all the way in and then out counter clockwise by one turn, the idle speed will need to be re-adjusted and make sure the top end is not lean and is slightly four stroking when flat out. If the saws idle speed cant be brought down to the correct speed by undoing the idle adjuster then you probably have an air leak and someone has over cooked the richness at idle to mask it. Good luck

Listen to what the guys are saying, the 346XP is balanced and has good speed in the cut with a 15" 0.325 1.5mm bar with full chisel chain:thumbup: The longer bar will make the saw front heavy, the saw will handle it but you will lose a little power pulling the longer bar - in the cut on large wood, the saw will be slower and won't pull as well and will be less "nice" to use. A 15" bar will cut 12" dia timber fine and will do larger diameter by cutting from both sides or rolling the timber over. My personal choice is 15" as above - you can always purchase a larger bar later - if really set on a longer bar, the 17" may be better than the 18"! The 346Xp is a really impressive saw.

Been refurbing a carb off an 020, found a couple of faults as below - sawdust in the gauze filter and holes worn in the sealing flaps of the pumping membrane.

Blimey - thest runs in the kitchen, that would be a divorce:lol: It is bad enough nipping out the front and dumping chain oil on the drive!

Gotta say that Aspen smells much sweeter than Stihl HP - especially in confined spaces:001_rolleyes:

A very simple service regime should be to clean the air filter, take the clutch cover off and clean the crap out, keep the chain very sharp. Things like dressing the bar less often and then CHANGE THE SPROCKET - seen some disasters in my time - a worn sprocket will put wear on the chain, the sprocket bearing, the crank bearings etc The rest of it comes with time - a well honed tool will work longer and cause the operator less fatigue!

I guess one way of looking at it is the L screw does low speed mixture and the idle screw is like holding the throttle on very lightly. Please make sure the high speed running is OK and isn't running lean, this can have some bad effects on your piston - seizure. If you stick to the factory one turn out on each screw, you should be relatively safe unless you have an air leak. Good luck - if you need any further advice, just ask

The Low "L" screw adjusts the amount of fuel/air ratio the carb dispenses at small throttle openings, the idle screw adjusts the actual throttle valve opening with the throttle closed alowing a little fuel/air in to the enqine thus keeping it running with no throttle applied. Set the L & H screw to one turn out from fully in (with the limit caps removed if fitted), get the saw started and wind in the idle screw whilst keeping the throttle feathered until the saw idles properly. If you can't achieve this, you probably have a problem with the saw.

Looking good so far:thumbup:

Ran Geoffs saw for a few minutes and did a compression check when cold, around 160psi on five pulls but went to over 180psi on eight pulls - this should go really well when tuned. Burrells dodgy revving MS200T is a carb problem, pressure and Vac tested - 100%, the carb is now in the cleaner getting clean:thumbup:

You bad man, hope the saw behaved, nice saw that one, lots of compression:thumbup: The one you left with me is next on the bench:thumbup:

Two types: - 1122 790 3603 And 1122 790 3608 Both are on the MS660 parts list