spudulike

£5-£10 depending on pitch and length or do it FOC if it is part of a big service - whenever someone mentions a price on anything, someone always chimes up with a cheaper price. What about quality of service, turn around time, after sales service......!

I brought this up some time ago - found out just through trial and error but seems it is common practice with those that know.

That saw should do the job - will refrain from talking Chinese in future - always wondered why people glaze over when I start talking saws - and why Burrel has never visited:lol:

Personally I prefer rim drives as they wear less and are easier to swap over from 0.325 to 3/8 if required. A rim is also considerably cheaper to replace than a full spur sprocket and should prove to be easier on the chain - I have had a few stretched and notchy chains come off machines with worn spur sprockets but rims seem less damaging in this way! If your heart is set on the saw then it offers a solution though!

Saw tuning can be done in stages, the "muffler mod" in basic terms is forgetting about the 114db limit and opening up the outlet and baffle plates to 80% of the exhaust port area. This mod has greater effect on more modern restrictive exhausts than older free breathing ones. This can be followed by opening up the exhaust PORT and inlet PORT, this increases the flow of vapour and exhaust in and out of the engine. Transfers can be worked on increasing the flow from the crankcase to the combustion chamber. Squish height can be decreased with a mix of lower gasket, pop up piston or machining the cylinder to lower the squish height to increase the compression. Timing of the engine can be changed by adjusting duration and port height but leave this for the real experts.

The piston usually wears before the cylinder unless the saw has seized etc, Meteor are the best non OEM pistons. I use a Gunson Hi Gauge although I do have two others.

So youre running 115 - 135psi compression, the exhaust side of the piston looks OK, you have stripped the saw down and the bore looks unmarked but you can easily slide a 3 thou feeler down the skirt of the piston and a 5 thou at a push, you need a piston. If there is aluminium showing through the bore then it is scrap. The exhaust side of the piston is scored but the bore is OK - new piston. The exhaust side of the piston is scored and the bore is badly scored - scrap. Youve inspected the rings and - they have thin ends? they look the same thickness as the middle?? You are running 145psi+ then your problem is elswhere. Throwing a piston in isn't the only option, it may cure your problem, it may do nothing - a good solution comes with inspection - a compression gauge will tell you a thousand tales! I had a saw in recently and thought ...low compression, after tightening the sparkplug:001_rolleyes: I had over 150psi:thumbup: Give us a bit more info and we may be able to help, old MS200s can be resurected with a little knowledge - just got a 8 year old one sorted very nicely:thumbup:

What he said:001_rolleyes:

I know - I am a bad man and will get my bottom fried in hell:lol: Not knocking the guys in any way they do a great job and always believe in reciprocation - thet is, I help people out and then expect a little slack - makes the world go round IMO. I think I get good rep from most members that have shown an interest in what I do and I think the site must get some good Google rankings on some of my posts!

Got a little Tanaka that is destined for ebay, good condition and yours for £100 - sorry mods - the guy did ask:001_rolleyes:

Thanks for the good rep - only ever had one of these apart, this had the opposite problem, the gewarbox couldn't be engaged - turned out to be the actuation lever had sheared off where it clamps on to the gearbox shaft - think Pleasant is about right, seized up cable or damaged gearbox. The guy I fixed the mower for said it nearly yanked his arms out of their sockets - did a bit of work on the carb as well:thumbup:

Yes - click on your username on the top right hand corner of the web site and go to your own user page - the Mods do delete some threads if they are racial, abusive or if you are bad enough to try to sell stuff on here:001_rolleyes:

Guy on here called Banana said he purchased a Mitox to see what they were like, he didn't like my take on coming away from the established quality brands. He also never came back with a positive or negative view:confused1: From what I see, you buy a Stihl or Husky, you can get parts for around ten years, after that you can get aftermarket parts, after that you strip down old machines for parts. Hey - I refurbed a 28 year old Rancher for a member recently - it wil still be going in another 20-30 years. So - cheap back up saw, 023, 025 Stihl or Husky Rancher, 266, 268, all good machines and you can get them for £90 - £150, all will outlast some piece of Chinese toot and will still have decent residual price after a few more years of use.

It is usually just a case of cleaning all the gunk out, taking the bar off and place on clean newspaper to see where it is coming from. There is a connection where the oil feed pipe comes out of the tank and the oil pump compresses against it, leakage could occur there and believe an 026 also has a pipe pushed on to the pump that then feeds the oilway to the bar - if it is a real pain, remove all the side covers and clutch, clean it fully and leave it overnight to see where it is coming from. Slight seepage is normal - possiblythe pump is set to max on a short bar causing over oiling - not a problem but would cause seepage. You would expect oil to come out and then stiop if all is well - if it keeps coming, you have a leak.

Mmmm Snap:thumbdown:

Thanks Rich, good luck with them, be interested to see how they perform - little screamers they are:thumbup:

carb cleaner makes a good cleaning agent and JB weld is one of the best epoxy resins in the market place with near metal like properties. Hot glue bonds well to clean plastic but make sure the area doesn't get hot if you use it.

Hows about inserting a piece of pipe and screwing in a screw in to the pipe - this is used by Stihl in their fuel tanks - you could also use a MS200T fuel tank breather - one of the later ones with the pipe connection. Just need to be creative.

Getting to put the 262XP back together again, just fitted one of those Meteor pistons - they really are good quality and fitted with caber rings - begining to look good.

Busy weekend, finished off the 338XPT and then dug in to two MS200Ts, one a box of bits and the other had an intermittent bogging and poor idle. Did the normal and found a tiny hole in the pumping gasket and another cracked impulse line, the carb was set way too rich hence the black plug - now coffee brown! Put the other box of bits together with a few quids worth of spares and hey presto - one strong running saw. The customer wanted a port job on the box of bits saw and managed to open up the exhaust port but the inlet is just too tight on the ring pins on the piston and the piston skirt sides so too risky to do much there. Lowered the squish and got 160psi comnpression, both saws were muffler modded and got 14,000 - 14,400 rpm on the tach - both sweet.

Squish is the distance between the piston crown and the top of the cylinder, lowering this increases compression - that equls more power just as low compression means loss of power. There are a few ways to adjust this - fit a custom thickness base gasket, drop the gasket completely or machine the bottom of the cylinder and turn your piston in to a pop up one. Squish is exactly what it sounds like - don't over do it though as too high compression can stop combustion and there has to be a safety margin between the piston and cylinder!

Bad man - the Orange and Silver revolution is coming:thumbup: Decomp makes sense with lowering of compression - the decomps can fall apart so may be worth swapping it out also the air they let in may cause overheating.

You cant change the squish due to the design of the engine, porting and muffler mod should be possible.

Yes - think I am like that in giving the tool a good clean and sharpen before returning it but is a rare occurence that I need to borrow anything. In regards to the 1mm chip under the exhaust port - it is the top part of the port that is critical and does the job of producing compression and port timing so it should be ok as long as it can't snag the rings.