spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Think the issue may just be the diameter of file the chap is using, 4mm is right as Barrie and Andy have mentioned earlier.
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All those old Huskys ar unburstable and will do many years service, they have got lighter and faster and time will tell on very long time reliabillity but even the old ones still demand good residual prices for good reason.
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Saws are designed to be run flat out, that is their function and the design of their carbs and tune etc, using them mid throttle can cause issues. There are a few facts on tuned saws, one of the US guys measured the temperature of a standard 026, then ported it and did it agian and the temperature had dropped, this is because the exhaust gases are flowing out of the engine better. I can't really comment on the wear to the components that make up a saw but would think that any extra power would have some detrimental effect to the life of the parts but my saws are for my pleasure and enjoyment so will probably last me years. It is important to ensure saws are well maintained otherwise any saw will fail in time, main reasons for failure will be old fuel mix causing seizure or airleaks and bad carb settings doing the same though carb issues are also common! Tuning is a personal choice - just depends on how fast you want to go:thumbup:
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Panasonic Lumix:thumbup:
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This list could be really long - the old Huskys 262,266, 268, 50, ranchers are pretty unburstable, very solid engineering. 346/357 - great machines but suffer from inlet boot issues - I have tuned both now and are really excellent. 066/MS660 are solid machines as are 372s........ Probably better to ask for relaibillity, state a budget and the general use for a saw and that way you will get a concise answer. My favourite saw in my personal collection is the 346XP and probably followed by my 357XP, both ported and are light and quick - just depends on what you want to do with it - home use, a bit of logging and on a budget, 266 huskys are strong and cheap:thumbup:
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In a word - YES...rings ae generally 1.5mm or 1.2mm thick, 1,5mm is very common but have found 1.2mm on the 441 that I am working on. If the piston can be cleaned up then it is an option, slight scoring is OK as long as ALL aluminium transfer is taken off the bore. Golf pistons are generally not too bad but have had to do work on a few of them in the past, to make one fit.
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Just have, can't see but I would have thought it should have a rubber doughnut on it!
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If the kit is an aftermarket kit then there is your problems, typical issues I have had have been piston crown arrows pointing the wrong way, ring ends badly formed so the piston wont fit, piston rings breaking in use, ports beveled too much causing ring ends to pop in to the port and jam in them (ouch), small end of the con rod not fitting in to the piston, pitting on the bore, squish being far too much and poor compression. My advice is to reclaim the OEM cylinder where possible and fit a quality piston where possible - the Meteor ones from Danikrop and Tesgol on the bay are very good and Tesgol has proven to be a decent seller - I don't know him!! If the piston is aftermarket then you may need to machine off some of the bottom of the piston but guess you have probably come to that conclusion yourself. This sort of problem separates the men from the boys:lol:
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Yes, I was making the point that the fault was the opposite of what I would expect. I am thinking that when the brake is taken off, the act is impacting from the locked up sprocket on to the spinning crankshaft\clutch and stalling the engine, it doesn't take mutch. Strip, clean, inspect the bearing for play and then grease and try again. One thought, are your clutch springs shot, if so, letting off the brake would throw the running engine on idle in to the stationary chain - does your chain spin on idle when the brake isn't on?
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Saws usually stall when you apply the chain brake, usually through dirt or wear around the chainbrake, clutch and sprocket bearing so worth a clean up in this area
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Big solid old lump, will probably still be going in another 20 years! If you aren't using it all day, it will be fine.
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Hope you took it easy on the inlet port, the ring ends are very close to the inlet port. The exhaust can be fattened up, squish can be lowered and a muffler mod brings the saw to life.
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Nice vid Martin, that saw really goes now, will try it on a 7 pin rim and see what thats like but pretty happy with it but reckon a full chisel will make it even more aggressive - thanks for the wood:thumbup: Thanks Robert, I thought that saw had a fair bit of go in it, difficult to get it to bog in hard oak when I tried it and should get even better in use. Thanks for letting me know, always good to know my hard work is appreciated.
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Reckon a bit of Ted Nugent Live may shift some poop off an old Zamma carb, that or a blast of Angus Young - AC/DC:thumbup: Just got a little cheapie US cleaner but does the job and well!
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Nice one Barrie - think we have all had one of those types of saws! My weekend - the good news is the 357 runs like a screaming banshee - tached it to 14400 and hit some wood and it rips through it and it only has a semi chisel on it, will do a vid once I have some time. The 365 was tached and runs nicely but the 254 I am doing is being a pig on a warm start - thats life!
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The saw is a 346XP, tuned correctly it will be at the high end of 13k rpm and tipping 14k rpm, I wouldn't risk it with one of these high revving saws. An old 70s saw may be a different option as they only hit 10 - 11.5k rpm. A new cylinder and piston for a 346XP is £250 just for parts!!
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I Believe all MS Stihl saws will have the black and white flippy caps and NOT the black screw in ones! I think the change happened around 2001 but some of the Stihl techs may know the exact date!
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The MS200T has limitations to porting that are caused by the piston design and where the ring ends are, the exhaust port can be widened, there is little that can be done with the inlet port, the squish can be lowered and the muffler can be modded and that will give the saw more go. Just PM me if you want me to tune the saw:thumbup:
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Possibly crud in the gauze filter in the pumping section of the carb, an air leak or just the L screw is a little lean.
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Been working on the tuned 357XP again, this time the muffler got modded, I call it the shotgun:thumbup:
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If you get stuck then PM me, should be able to fit it in and get the old girl working again:thumbup:
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Couple of things - has the saw good compression? When you have the saw on the fast idle choke setting and the saw starts, does it have a decent fast idle? Sometimes the fast idle doesn't hold the throttle to open as much as it should. If when starting the saw blurps on full choke and you slip it on to fast idle to start it and it doesn't go in three pulls, try holding the throttle wide open and pull the starter with the left hand - not by the book but if the saw fires it is probably this fast idle mechanism. It is possible the L setting is a bit rich!
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Typically you need to take off the flywheel nut, tap a large screwdriver in between the flywheel and the crankcase an then belt the end of the crankshaft with a nylon mallet. I have also used pullers located on the magnet and counterweight part of the flywheel but it is difficult to get a set to fit under the flywheel - ground down my set so they worked!
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Had an 028 come in, scared the poop out of me when it backfired, a 335XP and a 338XP - a bit more common than I would think. I guess it is probably down to the flywheel becoming loose. The backfiring is down to ignition on the downward stroke when the exhaust port is open.
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Not sure how th esaw is Parping through the carb as the only time the inlet port is open is to let fuel in to the lower crankcase. If the saw is down on power and is backfiring then it may be the flywheel key has sheared - maybe worth checking! Other than that, is your plug black, if so, you are running rich and would be worth setting the carb back to factory but make sure of the correct carb settings - the ones on the side of the airbox are with the limiters fitted! The above is assuming the 361 has got a standard carb and not one of these electronic adjustment ones:001_rolleyes: I havent done one of these yet - the MS441 is the closest I have got to it!
