spudulike

Was going to put a tea towel on my head - Soud sounded a bit Arabic:lol:

Firstly - if the spark "goes weak" when the saw is warm and you have changed the coil, there is little else left to change bar the spark plug. Things I would check in regards to spark would be: - Distance between coil and flywheel - should be the thickness of a typical business card. Change the spark plug Make sure the cut out wire hasn't chaffed anywhere or just disconnect it from the coil and try the saw again - use the choke to stop the saw. A coil breaking down will be worse when the saw is revving flat out and when hot but in my experience, coils have just died. If you have swapped the carb and coil from a known GOOD saw then it is worth checking the tank breather, fuel filter and fuel pipe - the pipe can become rubbery and soft. Always use fresh fuel in the saw. It will be worth pulling the muffler off and checking the front of the piston - if it is scored, it may be you have enough compression for the saw to start but when it is hot, compression drops below the amount needed for decent running. Good luck.

Looks interesting, can't tell how good it is but it looks like a nice price if it works!

There is a point where the compression is so great, the fuel vapour will start reverting to fluid and will stop the engine working properly, I have had 230psi on an old Jonsered with a domed piston crown but most saws run 150-170psi depending on their age. I would expect this saw to drop to 180psi with a little use but is still stonking for a 2002 machine:thumbup:

A Schrader valve is the valve fitted to most car and bicycle tyres, the core of the valve is used in many compression gauges but the spring should be very fine so it allows the engine to open it under compression - not sure where you can get them from yet. The valve is typically in the brass screw in end connector

The Hi Gauge is the one that has gone pop and Gunson are not returning my mails - got two others though:thumbup:

Fortunately I have another two, the one that failed was a hi gauge and am trying to find a replacement Schrader valve, to date, Gunson haven't replied to my mails:thumbdown:

Right - the 365 is almost done, new sprocket and rim fitted plus a brake band as the original had snapped - just needs a tune now. My 357XP EPA - the auto decomp have been taken off, I have replaced the crank bearings and seals then spent time porting it and improving the transfers. Measured the compression at 190psi - just before my compression gauge packed in, think the compression was just too high for it:001_rolleyes: Interesting point on the 357 crank, some may have noticed the covers on the crank that fit over the crank lobes. These are known as "Stuffers" and they fill the crank case void and this has the effect of increasing the flow velocity of fuel vapour through the transfers during the downward stroke of the piston (Primary compression) due to the fuel vapour having no space to go in to the crank case. Neat idea:thumbup:

It all depends on your budget and whether you want new or secondhand. 357XP & 346Xp or 550XP, 560XP are all decent workhorses with the first two being available secondhand.

PS - Sorry to batter your first post, better make the next one less confrontational:thumbup:

I sell most of my top handles to guys on this site, the Tanaka has also gone to a local guy and also a member on this site. Ebay is a good second channel to sell through and there is no law at present to stop this. I am not a dealer, I refurb saws to high standards and make sure all safety features work. Even guys with their tickets can buy off the bay so please don't make me out to be irresponsible! I also service others saws and commonly replace chain catchers and chain brake components so unlrss the llaw changes, can continue to sell some of my saws on the bay.

In the carb there is a pumping membrane gasket, on one side it takes vacuum and primary compression from the crankcase and uses it to pump the fuel up from the tank. The impulses from the crankcase can be used via a rubber hose like a fuel pipe (impulse line) or via a hole in the cylinder by the carb mount and goes through to the carb where there is a small hole in the throttle side of the carb that does the job internally. The 357 has the latter but does have a small 3cm pipe that goes from the front to the back of the carb boot.

The manual decomp valve fitted to many other Huskys will screw straight in but make sure you seal the pipe that comes out of the lower cylinder 100% - I believe you can get a cap and clip or I took the pipe out of mine, tapped the hole and put in a screw sealed with JB Weld. The petrol doesn't seem right - you need to find out where it is coming from.

Right........ if the saw is reasonably new, it probably needs a 1/8 - 1/4 turn anti clockwise on the L screw and the idle resetting to normal - that should do it. One thing to try before this is to loosen the fuel cap with the saw at an angle and see if this makes this "run on" better. If it does then it is probably the fuel tank breather otherwise try the above. Don't adjust the H screw:thumbdown: Oh - one last thing - try a little lube on the rod that goes through the rubber grommet between the rear handle and the top cover - sometimes the throttle linkage gets a little tight on this grommet!

Ah - automatic decomp - not one of Huskys better inventions - they tend to leak and cause problems - best thing to do is plug the pipe and fit a manual decomp valve. The breather is the fuel tank breather and comes out of the fuel tank next to the fuel pipe, is connected to a rubber pipe that enters the airbox and then plugs in to a small connector next to the top cover clip on the clutch side.

OK - when the saw is warm and you let go off the throttle, does the saw snap down to an even and normal idle or do the revs take a little while to drop down to normal?

You don't need the tool and you don't need the ring compressor - or at least I never have! I have done many 345,350,346 and 357 - all very similar, just depends on how good you are!

In simple terms - check the spark by removing it and puting the cap back on and then pull the saw over with it pressed on the cylinder AWAY FROM THE PLUG HOLE - I have had spectacular flames expelled off saws in the past:blushing: If the spark is there, is it wet? Hold it by the insulator and flick it against a piece of paper - do you get drips of fuel off it (very wet)? If so, turn the ignition off, turn the saw upside down and spin it over and watch all the fuel come out. Warm the plug on a gas ring, fit quickly and pull the saw over on fast idle and NO choke. If it isn't the above two, then you may have low compression. For a saw to work, in basic terms, you need spark, fuel and compression. Are you starting the saw with the decomp in - try it out? When you cleaned the saw, did you knock of the breather pipe?

If the chain is spinning at idle and the idle speed is around right, you may have worn clutch springs, worn or damaged sprocket bearing or foreign matter between the crank and the sprocket - plastic twine is a favourite! If the idle isn't dropping to the normal level - circa 2,800rpm for you techies, then the idle needs adjusting. If the saw idle is staying fast for a second or three before dropping down ot the correct level then it may be a number of things - a plugged breather is one of them and a slightly weak mix on the L screw is another - both will give an effect like you get as you are about to run out of fuel but not quite as apparent.

Technically, he is damn lucky it didn't seize, I have two EPA ones that did through having a faulty valve. To do this mod and not seal the pipe shown no knowledge of two strokes and how they work. The pipe will let in air on the upward stroke weakening the mixture and allow fuel vapour out on the downward stroke causing lack of fuel vapour velocity in the transfers - not good, just fitted new crank bearings on my 357 and ported it - should be a screamer - I unscrewed the pipe, threaded the hole and JB welded a bolt in the hole!

Do as Andy says, drill it with a decent sharp drill - make sure swarf doesnt fall in to the cylinder, use easy outs and if that fails, drill the hole out and use an M5 tap to re-tap the hole, should be able to do a good job. A new OEM cylinder will be forking expensive - £150 - 200 and the aftermarket ones can be hit and miss!

TBH the vast majority of saws are 1 & 1 turns out, the only exception is the 335XPT. I always start with one turn on each, get a feel for the L setting and once it is right, set the H screw, this can effect the H on some carbs so a balance point is sometimes sought - the old 020AV was one of those.

Yup - one or two.......

Wind both screws in until they bottom and then out (anti clock) one turn each and then tune by ear - adjust idle and you are away.

Yeah - it is the EPA model with the automatic decomp valve but some numpty has fitted the manual decomp valve and not plugged the crank case:001_rolleyes: