spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Andy - just use the ported 346XP - it is probably just as fast:thumbup: Hows the little devil going - think I have a get together planned with Burrell and Matty F - a bit of a shootout at the OK Corral, ported 346 & 357 against a new 560XP and anything else we can find kicking around including Burrells 076. Should hear it from where you are:thumbup:
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Yup - you will lose a small bit of power from having a longer bar but will be most noticible if you try to cut with the full bar length. I don't see many using a 16" bar on a MS200T or feeling th eneed to:confused1:
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The Squish sounds OK but worth checking once assembled, the pot is difficult to know without an image. Scores and damage to the bore above the exhaust port will be bad news. If you drop the gasket, make sure you clean out any carbon in the combustion chamber directly above t eoutside edge of the piston and also work on the bore area above where the rings have been rubbing on the cylinder as the piston will now travel 0.5mm further in to the bore than before.
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Then the 12" will give you a saw that will maintain a high cut speed on large cuts to 10" or the 14" will give you the abillity to take on larger limbs but you may see a drop of chain speed on larger cuts. Both will work well on the saw. A larger bar IMO would make the saw unbalanced but I am not a climber, just a tech.
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Most of the guys on here will run a 12" or 14" on a Stihl MS200T, a 16" wouldn't be great and would bog more on large cuts and would be less manageable. The MS200T has good pulling power, some top handles are less powerful and would only pull a 12". What I am saying is that you need to match the saw to the bar and the intended use of the saw - a saw may take a larger bar but doesn't mean it will be nice to use! What saw are you using?
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Another one ggrrrreat:001_rolleyes: I have got a bit of grime off the saw but not spending ages cleaning it, had the carb in the US cleaner, nothing obvious wrong with it. Will pressure check the saw and then tach it once back together.
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There should be no need to put any sealent around the seal as long as you haven't marked or bruised the casing on removing the old ones. If you have, a smear of hylomar or stud lock will reseal it. Husky parts - Arb Ireland on ebay or Greenstripe - just google them. What saw are we dealing with, on some you can't drop the base gasket out without the piston hitting the top of the cylinder. There should be no need to raise the port when dropping out the base gasket but I personally do to keep the exact port timing.
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Bury a milk churn full of ammonium nitrate, Sulphur and charcoal powder under the stump and ignite, that should shift it:thumbup: .......before someone does, I am only kidding:001_rolleyes: Back on topic - just ordered one of those Fiskar X27 axes from the US, £53 landed......fingers crossed! Why is stuff so expensive here - 3 times the price in the UK!
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Good point Andy - am guessing though, that if the guy knows the correct term for the big end, he probably means the big end.
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No - it would just weaken the thread and risk having the plug blow out of the hole. My money is still on the plug cap having some sort of carbonised track between the metal HT connector and the base of the plug cap and would personally change it for the pennies it costs! I have never had a faulty plug and have only ever had a problem with arcing on one plug cap that a new one cured. Very strange this one, NGK plugs are usually very reliable and rarely fail or wear badly IMO.
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I won't say you can't because anything that is manufactured can be dissmantled but it is well outside of what the vast majority of engineers can or would do including myself. If the big end is shot, replace the crank with either new or a good second user part. If it looks OK with no "up and down" play - "Side to side" is normal, then re-use it and fit new seals plus vac and pressure check the re-assembled engine.
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Yes, nice job, nice photos and good thread:thumbup:
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Better make sure the pipe end hasn't deformed over time and has become a bit loose but reckon you have probably already assesed this:thumbup:
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Busy Sunday, Stihl hedge trimmer not starting and fuel primer not working - a trip to the ultrasonic cleaner and all is good again. Had a Stihl pole cutter which was a bit boggy, cleaned the carb and it was still a little boggy so adjusted the tappets (it is a fourstroke), checked the exhaust port for carbon, richened up the L screw a little and all seems fine - did a good test on my conifer hedge:thumbup: Just fixed a Piaggio scooter, not starting after a winter standing idle - charged the battery, that got it started but still bogging. Took the carb slide, needle and diaphragm out, cleaned and lubed it, reassembled and off it went:thumbup: Then started work on a Stihl 084, the top AV mount is shagged and the saw is boggy again! the piston looks good so will clean the carb and check the rubber connectors and filter - the plug was pretty black so the carb settings need checking.
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Mmmm stripped, cleaned and rebuilt a Honda mower carb when my wife told me the guy said it was a choke problem, turned out the clutch was buggered - the other way round but similar:001_rolleyes:
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No Worries, it will be a belter once it is sorted:thumbup:
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I'll have a word, next time I will get the biscuits ready as well:thumbup: Think I will leave out the "tea lady" comment - I fancy getting my meals on the table as usual:001_rolleyes:
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Solid bits of kit those 181SE s, should be good for years to come:thumbup:
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Thanks Martin, you are always welcome to knock on the front door for a cuppa and a chat:thumbup: Yeah - be careful with that carb fix, it is top secret - watch out for the spooks:lol:
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Glad you are happy, I think if you hit something like 10" oak, you will really see some big differences in the two saws, the ported & muffler modded one will pull stronger in big cuts when the standard saws will slow or bog. Sounds pretty good now:thumbup: Thanks for the good rep and let me know how it goes after a few weeks of running
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IMO, the plugs are OK and you have tracking from the HT metal plug clip, down through the rubber cap to the earthed body of the plug, that is my best guess as to what is happening. Had this once with a Kawasaki engined strimmer - changed the cap....perfect. See if you can change the rubber cap - on some Husky spark plug leads, trying to pull the plug lead out of the body of the coil can damage the thing so would get some lube down between the wire and the rubber cap and then pull it off to replace it. To have three plugs fail must be almost impossible.
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Pretty good, very busy with a hedge trimmer, pole cutter, a Stihl 084 and a 357XP to fix - hope all is well with you - Steve
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IMO I would always drain it down and always use fresh mixed fuel on each outing. Saves running the risk of seizure.
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Funny that, this is the saw I spoke about right at the beginning of this thread:thumbup: I was selling my own muffler modded one, great little saw but has since been sold elswhere. These saws have great AV, good power to weight ratio and you can use them all day with no fatigue - great with a 15" bar. Not as peaky as the 346 but still belts through the wood - totally agree with Harvey
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I rebuilt the bottom end of my 357 with new crank bearings, muffler modded and ported it in the same time this is taking. Go buy and marvel at the power:lol:
