spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Yet another busy weekend - working on the base of my loncase clock - been badly repaired in the past so made up new oak parts to sympathatically repair it. Had an 066 in that has seized, showed up fine on the carb, vac and pressure checks so baffled as to why it went pop, fuel was good also:confused1: Finished the Solo, pics below, air filter really blocked, oil was reported as leaking but no faults found in my stripdown and final test - possibly a blocked oil hole on the bar that I don't have! : -
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Rowena Motors Very good service and hold stock!
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I have a 009 that is a very similar machine, the 011 will never really rip but is a competent little logging tool, pretty solid, reed valve low revving saw. Value - £60 - £120 if working, the higher value if in very good condition.
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Greenstripe online but it aint gonna be cheap:thumbdown:
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The Acid test so to speak is to start the saw when it is very hot when the compression will be at it's lowest, if it starts fine then all is well - had low compression saws fail this test in the past:thumbdown: Good luck
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What are the best secateurs for pruning trees and shrubs
spudulike replied to mendiplogs's topic in General chat
I did this thread a few months ago and 90% of the members said Felco were best, I guess from some of the answers, times are hard. My brother is a landscape gardner and retes Felco, the wife has used Wolfgarten and these have been good and reliable over 15 years use. I am very happy with the Felcos but am to bussy servicing and porting saws to use them. -
Yes, I remember the things now - done too many MS200s lately, from memory I think i leame the mechanism on the "chainbrake on" position, wedge one end of the spring in to position and then get a large screwdriver in the other end of the spring groove and then lever the thing in to place. Been a while since I have had to do one - I always wear safety glasses when working with compression springs - they can go off like bullets:thumbdown:
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Yes, agree but they are a bit of a mother to clean unlike the nylon mesh ones that come up good as gold each time but for longevity of the cylinder, probably the best choice. Had one on my 345 and it never seemed to hold it back:thumbup:
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Well spotted - I meant go from an 80 micron to 40 micron and not the other way round - long day, early start and 300 miles driving, not good:thumbdown:
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Did a pressure and Vac test on the 084, all pretty good so cleaned the breather that was a bit blocked and cleaned the fuel filter that was agian a bit dirty - just waiting for the AV mount now. Also got a Solo in - one of the most dirty air filters I have ever seen:thumbdown:
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It is normally a case of hooking the spring on one of the loation dowels and then using a piece of cord on the hook end of the other end of the spring and using this to extend the spring - usually easier if the spring is in a relaxed state than extended!
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There is little to no pressure in the tank so as long as it is sealed reasonably well, it should last - the only danger is that you ram the front of the saw against the log you are cutting and smash the repair so go carefully!
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Another option to epoxy is to clean the outside area around the damage, apply hot glue around the hole, heat the new formed plate and push it on to the glue and then use self tappers on each corner if necessary or just use a heated screwdriver to smear the hot glue around the plate to seal it. That is what I would do for a cost effective repair - hot glue will give a more flexible seal!
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Yes, the air injection is the way the rotating flywheel fins produce a vortex that filters out the dust and only channels clean air in to the air box. I am unaware of exhaust gases being used to clean air, the closest this gets is the flap generally in the top cover that directs hot air from the cylinder in to the air box.
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Part is 1127 020 3003 cost is around £70 - £75 The engine is a clam style engine so a good degree of engineering skill is required - it just depends if you have done a bit of this sort of work before. The other option is to apply a metal patch with a good dolop of epoxy resin/JB weld around it and screw it down on each corner - won't look nice but should work.
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Yup - still throwing the logs in the stove:thumbup:
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Husky do manufacture three types of filter for some saws - flock, 40 micron and 80 micron. You could try the 80 micron or flock filter if your saw has a 40 micron on it. I have only seen one saw with the plating worn off and this was a Stihl 024 on the inlet side and reckon it had ingested sawdust through the steel gauze filter. The Husky air injection system does work pretty well.
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Two Words....."National Conscription"
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I could send over my 298XP for a work out - thought it was locked solid when I first tried to pull it over:001_rolleyes:
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Thats nasty - maybe the clutch has been damaged when being removed in the past - never seen one of those before, will look out for a cover on ebay etc. This Saturday may be OK, Sunday I will probably be up at SN watching the Grass Track racing! Is Martin OK with Sat? Sorry to hijack he thread - perhaps we should do this via PM:blushing:
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OK - perhaps the ignition coil is going bad or maybe the coil to flywheel gap is a little large, with a new plug, the spark works but as it gets old, it doesn't spark so well. It doesn't explain the weak spark when tried on other machines though:confused1:
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Bloody hell - first one on me as well - you can probably get a new cover off ebay - they fit the same part on a number of saws. I am surprised it came out sideways though. If you need any help, let me know - will bring the 346 along as well and may even give the 181SE a run up, will need to tach it first though!
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I know, I have heard all the good rep, guess I am just interested to see how fast in the cut it is compared to my ported 357XP, I know there is so much more to a saw than just pure cut speed but I can't really compare my work in any other way than this sort of chainsaw drag race. Should be interesting - hopefully not to dissapointing from either side! Anyway - what you done to your 346XP, Martin says you have buggered it:thumbdown:
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Yeah - the local lads seem pretty keen and is a good way for Matty to get his wood cut, not sure the locals will know what has hit them:lol:
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Got a 357XP in tonight, bit of a rush job as collection was required by Friday. The saw was a troublesome starter but gave in the ghost after four pulls and fired up fine and then used the decomp - three pulls. Anyway - checked comp 160psi:thumbup: vac/pressure tested and passed both, that is good as it means the troublesome carb boot is good. Checked the coil gap, the plug colour, stripped and cleaned the carb, checked the fuel line, the filter, the breather and all look fine. The air filter was filthy so cleaned that up and noted the H screw was some two turns out so a trip out with the tach beckons! Tried starting it before the tach - two pulls, spot on - have checked the starting procedure with the owner but may just be the saw is a bit rich when warm.
