spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Today I start with a tip - when trying to start a Stihl 084 it helps to have fuel in the tank:001_rolleyes: Almost killed myself pulling over this 122cc monster and then checked the plug - not very wet, checked the tank - empty:lol: Started cleaning up a 357XP EPA that I have had on the shelf for a bit, someone has shown an interest in having it ported after seeing mine so cracked in to it today. It is cleaning up well and will show the Auto decomp to standard decomp mod that gets rid of the troublesome decomp valve - see picture and will also show the porting once I have done it - just got to get some parts in now! Glad it has the black unlimited coil - will be good for 14,500rpm whn done:thumbup:
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Its on the end of a grey plastic tube that runs along the top of the fuel tank and exits just under the rear AV rubber on the clutch cover side.
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I got My X27 from Amazon.com, £53 - Bargain:thumbup: The angle and thickness of the cutting part of the axe makes it a vast improvement on a normal axe as it will either split on the first blow or pull out easily out of the wood - the teflon coating helps removal as well. Not sure but those having trouble purchasing from the US may be using a UK bank card - try a Visa card! The UK VAT is paid when the order is placed and took 3 days - was very impressed:thumbup: Great tip with the tyre from Bob:thumbup1:
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Difficult to tell without extensive tests but as long as the ports are bevelled properly then it shouldn't have any detrimental effect on the saws life expectancy. One of the US guys ported an 026 and showed that by improving the flow of gasses, it ran a few degrees cooler than as standard.
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Anything from £130 - £250 depending on condition. You may have a crank seal gone behind the oiler - it is a bugger of a job to remove the oiler pinion but is relatively easy after that.
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Yup - my tuning is done with a £1 screwdriver - God alone knows what is going on under the top cover of these new saws, it will be dealers prices on these saw repairs if the computer goes tits up:thumbdown: Not sure the auto tune is worth it, a couple of lads off this site are going to give my ported saws a run up against the latest 560XP - it will be very interesting to see how both the 346XP and 357XP compare to the 560!!
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Yes, once you have felt that extra response on the trigger, heard that extra ring ping ping in the exhaust note and noticed the abillity to hold revs in deep cuts, you are hooked. Took me a couple of years to get round to porting a 346XP and a couple of months to do my 357XP:thumbup:
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I've seen the future and the future is Silver and Orange:biggrin:
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Just pulled in one of those Fiskars X27 from the US - nice bit of kit, the head is about 1/3 a maul and is teflon coated, it either splits the wood first hit or allows a very easy removal on the rare occasion it doesn't split. You gets what you pay for in life.
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Jolly good, thats the tuning kicking in and giving a bit more welly when you need it - told you you would notice it more when the bar is deep in the cut when a standard saw would slow or bog down. Glad the work I did is being put to good use.
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Got a MS660 in bits on the bench, for some reason it has seized, it passed pressure and vacuum testing. The tank breather and carb were OK although there was a residue of Hermatite in the carb where someone had used sealent when rebuilding it. There was a small piece of crud in the low speed jet and the fuel filter had a strange amount of clag around it - not sure what it is but is cleaned out now. Fitted a new Meteor piston after cleaning the aluminium transfer, compression is a little low but should improve once run a bit.
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When you pull the pipe off the carb, generally the fuel pisses out everywhere, perhaps you have a blocked fuel filter or breather - the blocked breather would cause a vacuum in the tank and cause your problems.
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Thats what I like about the old Huskies, 27 years old and still cutting - that is damn good, not sure the same will be said for most of the modern ones.
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One mans rubbish is another mans........... Had it both ways, good kit fetching peanuts and also good kit fetching double what you think it would - as I said in the first place........
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The OP has sorted his saw - "the turn it upside down trick to get rid of puddled fuel" worked - probably saw one of my earlier posts....possibly:thumbup: Just for the record and am not trying to score points - chainsaws have flywheels and coils, a magneto is found on mopeds etc and is used for creating electricity to power the bikes lights and horn etc - something like a alternator on a car but formed around the flywheel. A common mistake and misconception:blushing: Welcome to the site by the way and hope the information is useful
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I would offer two prices, one for an epoxy repair and point out you can't tell if it will work for a month or years and then the full repair with new parts - up to the owner then if he wants to take a punt on a repair or replaced parts
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Simplest way to check a spark is to take an old spark plug, open up the gap to 3mm -4mm and then use this to check the spark, if it is OK, it will jump the larger gap. Has the motor got good compression, have you tried pulling it over with the throttle pulled wide open - that can often get a hard to start engine going. Heating the plug up and trying to start it can help.
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I havent tig welded but have used some of those aluminium rods that are used with a propane torch and flux, they look great on the vid but my experience is that you have to be damn careful not to melt or crystalise the metal and it doesn't work well, I would choose JB weld and a suitable aluminium patch any day.
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As long as the hole isn't damaging the chainbrake band location or any other critical parts, you could make an aluminium or steel plate and JB weld, hot glue a metal patch on to the cover and secure with countersunk self tappers. Other than that, some of the US guys say a 254 cover will fit but may need modification to location tabs - got one on the shelf if you need a good image.
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A 262 with a busted case is coming up on the bay - Husqvarna 262 XPG Heated Handle chainsaw for spares | eBay I believe the side cover of a 261/257 will fit as well as the 262 one.
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Hi Rich - didn't take long did it - flippin heck:thumbdown: Clutch - HUSQVARNA 262 XP CLUTCH SPUR & SHOES. | eBay
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Gotta say that I have reported items in the past and contacted the seller and most of the time, the items are pulled. I know Caveat Emptor (buyer beware) comes in to it but we all know what one of these saws looks like from 100 paces, for the uninitiated it would seem like good value- even a bargain but IMO is bad market trading and not good trading.
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Same old Zomax Chinese poop that always comes up - worth £65 new and pretty poor - 58cc, bad chain brake, top cover melts, weak AV, poor recoil pulley, very soft bar metal etc:thumbdown:
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OK, it sounds like the thing hasnt fried, you could locate the idle setting and turn it clockwise unitil you have a decent idle speed, there will be two holes close together and one lower one away from the other two - sometimes labled "LA", this is the idle adjustment - it is on the clutch side of the saw. Try turning it 1/4 turn clockwise and see if this sorts it, turning it in will increase idle speed and may easily cure your issues.
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If it was a saw that I had serviced, I would have it back and resolve the issue free of charge and as a priority, the only time I would charge is if the fault wasn't due to the servicing I had done - so in short, take it back to your service agent and give him a detailed description of the fault. If he saw had rolled in to my workshop with that fault, I would put the carb settings back one turn out WITH THE LIMIT CAPS REMOVED. I would set the idle using the idle adjuster and see what that gave me. I would then adjust the L screw and then tach the saw for top end running. It sounds like the techie hasn't adjusted the carb properly - this can happen when the saw is tuned cold or warm and then used at the opposite end of the temperature scale so they should be happy to re-adjust if that is all it is. The cutting out "mid flight" worries me though - was it in a full speed cut or just during idle? When a saw dies in a big cut? Does the compression feel good still?
