spudulike

I believe they did, got my brother a Partner stone cutter - £75 and immaculate - a bargain IMO:thumbup:

I'm thinking Yamaha LC350YPVS twin should do it - or perhaps one of those Rotax singles - need to scour ebay for the next jolly jaunt:thumbup:

Got to admit it is prett damn quick - anyone tried Nitro in their saws:lol:

The metering arm is the actuator that lifts the needle and sits directly over the diaphragm, there are set limits these should be set to but have had a number of machines that have not started due to the metering arm being set a little high in to the carb body.

I know - next time:thumbup:

The Tillotson carb should have a spacer gasket between the diaphragm and the case of the carb and also a spacer gasket on top of the pumping membrane between the pumping membrane and the top cover plate. The gaskets often get welded together in time but check their positions as above - it is ommon to get them back to front. The up and down high speed running may be a number of things but sounds like fuel shortage to me. Check the fuel filter, fuel lines (can go very soft over time) check the impulse line for cracks - see if you can remove it and block one end and suck on it:blushing: whilst waggling it - yes, I ma still talking chainsaws:001_rolleyes: Check the breather isn't blocked, try running the saw with the fuel cap loose without too much fuel in the tank an easy way to see if there are breather problems. The gauze filter in the pumping section of the carb is a common place for this type of issue. It is a circa 7mm recess in the pumpingsection of the carb. There you go - you will be an expert after that lot!

Try lifting the metering arm in the carb a little, it is probably that! Jus do it by 0.5mm.

Well Jon, I can port that vacuum cleaner once you get it! Electrolux is one huge Swedish company, they own McCulloch, Flymow, Jonsered and Husqvarna and more. They merged the companies a few years back and then de-merged Husqvarna later, think the brand was being degraded by association with the others. Partner was part of this and many parts are the same as Jonsereds and Huskys - that is just one reason why I like the Husky product:thumbup: Not sure Stihl are clear winners IMO

Thats me out of ideas:thumbdown:

Right - here is your IPL - http://ersatzteillisten.motoruf.de/Partner/Motorsaegen/ipl,%20partner,%20p465,%20p495,%20p545,%20p605%20pro%20master,%201993-02,%20chain%20saw.pdf The brake band part - 501 87 43-01 looks like it is now listed as 503 71 87-01 This is listed as the brake band from a Husqvarna 51 Rancher http://www.rmmaquinas.com/downloads/arquivos/ec422fbee850492c0c6b4066bd336384.pdf Should be available from most Husqvarna spares agents or try ebay - a guy in the US (Randys spares) lists them, have had parts off him and all good!

I have taken parts in exchange for servicing before, I think they were worth more than the time I spent doing the job but to be honest, I was doing the owner a favour and he offered and I accepted, end of:001_tt2: For all we know, the sell price of the saw may dictate what the outstanding debt is. The question was, what is the saw worth...........think I answered this some time ago:lol:

It all depends on overall condition. In poor condition £45 - £60 and in excellent condition £100 - 150 if it has a decent bar and chain. These old saws are solid workhorses, not the most refined or powerful but still useful for doing a bit of logging.

There are two fuel filters going in to the carb, the one in the tank and the gauze one in the pumping section of the carb, both will be blocked by dirt in the fuel and NOT by not cleaning the air filter. A dirty air filter will richen the mix (less air getting through), ingress of fine dust will wear/mark the inlet side of the bore. The guy should have got his facts right:001_rolleyes: My brother has had the same problems at the same dealer, funny that I have had both his pole cutters in recently for repair!

Stihl 009 - running and in fine condition:thumbup:

Thats not right, recoils are easy to fix and test to make sure they are right before return - no excuse IMO. I would have returned them or just not use that shop again, not good:thumbdown:

The way I see it is that some people have a mechanical/electro mechanical aptitude and some have an aptitude to hang off trees. Probably the best way is to do what you are good at and pay others to do what they are good at. I think many agents may put their better techs on more expensive equipment and leave others to work on saws. Chainsaws are the racing car of the garden equipement so need someone with a bit of a clue to fix them well. It is not always easy to fix all faults but I do tach all the saws I fix and run them up for 20 mins before return to minimise any problems with fixed saws - MattyF caught me with five on the go at the same time in the middle of nowhere once:thumbup:

Well it looks like we hit the 30,000 reads of this thread, thanks for all the interest, hope it has been of some use and educated a few would be mechanics:thumbup: Been out cutting some wood with the ported 357XP. I am tuning it at 13,500rpm so it can be run in a bit before I get it up to around 14,500rpm. As I brought the saw up to 13,500, it was amazing how much it was fourstroking at 13,500rpm, these saws usually tune up at around 13,500 with the max of 14,000rpm but at 13,500rpm it still has a way to go before it is at it's top end of tune. I reckon it will be around 14,500 before the fourstroking clears in the cut. The plug is very dark brown which backs this up. Compression has settled at 180psi which is nice Looking good for the new owner

Hi Andy - your reply was a bit shorter:thumbup1:

I believe it is part 1118 182 0900 that you need and is refered to as a "switch shaft". You can purchase here - Mister-Solutions Ltd-1118 182 0900 But please make sure it is the correct part before ordering - it looks like the shaft that runs horizontal to the saw and actuates the choke and on off switch. Parts list here - http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/2062264/038-pl-pdf-july-12-2010-4-47-pm-446k?da=y

Ah - one last suggestion, is your chain about 2/3 life, if it is then have you taken down your depth gauges to accomodate the wear in the chain, it is very possible that you are grinding your way through the cut with the rakers/depth gauges. Are you getting good chips out of the saw - around 3-4mm square? Easy to keep sharpening the cutters and forget the rakers/depth gauges.

A reasonable ebay price - £200 - £300 depending on condition, bar age and chain etc - top dollar for new bar, scabbard, new sprocket and chain in clean working order. The lower price for a less clean, old bar runner.

Sounds like you need a new tech/agent:lol: Ask to see their tach, they may not even have one! The 560 may not like the 8 pin rim, it is possible that the saw is not pulling the extra load well and is having problems adjusting the carb to make up for the extra load. With the 7 pin it is probably under a constant load and is working fine, it is possible the saw isn't pulling the 8 pin well enough so is constantly fidegeting to find the best mix - just a thought.

Check the chain supplied, the 346 will typically have a 0.325 pitch, 1.5mm gauge and 15" or 17" bar although many other lengths are available. You may have been supplied a 1.3mm gauge chain. From your description, it sounds like heat is building up and burning the lubricating oil off. The heat must be being generated by the chain and bar rubbing together. What sort of chain oil are you using? Can you freely pull the chain round the bar by hand (WITH THE SAW NOT RUNNING)! When the bar is smoking - is it hot on the tip or all along the length of the bar? Bit baffled by this one but you need to make sure the bar/chain/sprocket are all the same pitch (typically 0.325), that the chain fitted is the same gauge as the bar (1.3 or 1.5mm) and the chain is tensioned and lubricated correctly! If you rev the saw hard with the bar pointing at a piece of fresh cut wood, do you get a line of oil forming where the chain is throwing it off? If you don't, the oiler is plugged. One last thing - you could increase the output of the oiler - this saw has an adjustable oil pump!

Thanks for the good rep though I am sure there are many other members who have similar depths of knowledge on other subjects:thumbup:

The most likely problem is that your oil pump isn't pumping oil on to the chain - on a new saw it is most likely that the bar oiler hole is plugged. Another problem may be a seized bar nose sprocket - take the bar off and check. The other issue may be an over tightened chain. Try these and let us know how you get on.