spudulike

Whenever using rope, rag or any other material to fill the cylinder, make sure the piston is past the exhaust port so the material doesn't get sheared by the piston with the possibility of jamming between the piston and the cylinder wall. And for the bright sparks out there - never jam something solid in the exhaust port to lock the piston - it ain't big and ain't clever:001_rolleyes:

Bit like gold dust at the moment:thumbup: Just waiting for the piston for the 064

Got another of the many MS200Ts I have around on the bench today - looks relatively low miles. Good compression at 165psi, it is cleaning up well and has passed pressure and vacuum tests, strangely the carb is one of an 020T, a common mod in light of the later problematic carbs. A bit more time and work and it will be ready for sale making a brace of MS200s on the shelf:thumbup:

No easy options my friend, split the crank cases - a feat in itself sometimes, once split with the crank removed, use either a big bench vice or a large G clamp to remove - I usually rest a suitably sized socket on the outside part of the ball race and add enough pressure to get the thing moving - don't over do it and good luck - the biggest job you are likely to have to do on a saw:thumbdown: Take care with the mating surfaces - damage may cause air or oil leaks! A constant pressure is better than walloping with a hammer, a press would be ideal but not the sort of thing likely to be found in the average workshop.

Yes - probably right, mostly occurs on home owner saws:001_rolleyes: Usually use rope on the big uns and the stihl tool on the smaller ones - never wanted to use a screw in stop - had a 262 in where one had cracked the piston crown - nasty:thumbdown:

Possibly the clutch side crank bearing - these usally scream when the saw is revved - have you lubricated the clutch bearing? have you checked out and greased the oil pump although it sounds like clutch or crank bearing to me:thumbdown: The crank bearing on this side generally goes first as it is the one that gets the stress of the chain etc. Have you tried tightening and loosening the chain?

Seen a few saws come up non ebay with the crank clutch end sheared off - wonder how this happens:001_rolleyes: (to all the guys using air wrenches) But there again - and this bit is important - THE CLUTCH HAS A LEFT HAND THREAD - RIGHTY TIGHTY AND LEFTY LOOSIE DONT WORK - TURN THE THING CLOCKWISE TO TAKE IT OFF or it will be a long day ending in tears:001_rolleyes: Thanks MesterH beat me to it!

Not worked on one of these before - post a picture of the offending part and I maybe able to offer advice unless someone else has worked on one of these units?

Sounds like a contradiction as if there was a vacuum in the tank, it would pull air in eventually rather than letting fuel out. Normally a blocked breather will make a saw hard to start but normal if the fuel cap is loose, you will find it revs immediately it is started and then get progressivly worse in seconds and will eventually bog and stall at idle and not rev out freely. It would be worth you inspecting the fuel pipe and possibly the diaphragm of your carb as if the breather was blocked - how would fuel be escaping from it:confused1: Sounds like you have a nice little job ahead!

Use the stihl double ended piston stop, do not use the metal one. The off switch problem will be the connectors or wires under the front AV mount.

Some of you may remember me pointing out to double check the direction of the piston when reassembling the engine when using Chinese pistons as I have found the arrows to be pointing in the wrong direction?They should point toward the exhaust port! The ring location pins should run where there is solid land running up the complete length of the cylinder or sometimes runs where the piston ring won't contact the port like under the inlet port - popular on older Huskys. Had a 064 in, getting it going and selling it on behalf of the owner who has since got a 660 and wants to clear this one out. I noted low compression, pulled the muffler and noted a broken ring and thought "toast" - no not breakfast but a buggered cylinder. Did a vac and pressure check to see if I needed seals and got a slight air leak traced back to the seal around the cylinder base gasket - easily fixable:thumbup: Pulled the cylinder and thank the Lord, apart from some very light dings in the inlet and exhaust port, it looks fine, given it a light rub over with light grade wet and dry - the picture is before I did this! Checked the piston - aftermarket and the arrow was pointing in the correct direction but the ring location pins were facing forward - only seen this on a 441 as standard before and knew that the 650 I had just done had rear facing pins - checked the measurements and sure enough, the ring would clear the port by around 2mm - far too little and the cause of the rings getting smashed - another duff Chinese piston so be careful out there folks, someone once told me this sort of repair is easy.....it is if you know what you are doing:001_rolleyes:

Always start with a reasonable compromise, I don't like the term "Win Win" but that is what youre after - your boss to not have to look for another operator and you to get some extra for the travelling and time. The actual days work should be paid as normal, the travelling time is separate and a payment for this should be agreed - I would take out your normal travel time from the extended travel time and then put a reasonable value on this, perhaps do it at 3/4 hourly rate? When you talk to the boss, have all this written down so he can go away and look at it and understand your position, seeing his point of view about getting work in and employing you in hard times and also him to see you are a hard grafter and not being unreasonable is paramount. I was 20 years in production Management with between 15 and 40 people on three shifts under my command so know a bit about what I am talking about:001_rolleyes: Don't go in cocky and threatening, go in to compromise an resolve - if the boss says go forth on extra payment - know what you plan to do....accept it or walk - your choice! Also be aware what he does for you, will roll over to the other workers - unless you cut a private deal!

Just seen the news - as it stands - UK - 40% of all foreign currency transactions France - 4% Germany - 2% Now I wonder what the Eurocrats want from us:confused1::sneaky2: Flub em all I say:001_tt2:

Goodluck, with it, sounds like you have cleared all the aluminium transfer and that is critical otherwise it just damages the ring, you will get away with some light scoring but heavy scoring above the exhaust port isn't great but the saw will run with it as long as you have 130psi. Run the saw up a little rich for the first 10 tanks and then tune to around 13,500rpm once bedded in. Drop me a line if you need any further advice - and fit the boot before putting the cylinder on.

Couple of questions, can you bring the idle speed down to normal idle speed? If your idle speed is normal and the chain is running, it will be your clutch springs or just binding between the clutch sprocket and the crank shaft through dirt or tight bearing etc. If the idle can't be brought down to a normal speed by using the idle screw then it is probably and air leak and is probably relatively easy to fix. If you can fix it yourself then do it before sale as you will lose value on it otherwise sell it as is but clearly state that it runs but the chain runs on - simple fix to guys in the know how! If you get stuck, PM me and I will help out.

What are the symptoms? You can usually just brush the dust off the outside of it!

AV = anti vibration mounts - cylindrical pieces of rubber with threaded metal plates on each end - there are allen bolts either side of the outside of the crank case - one above the fuel cap and a further two either side of the lower saw - one under the recoil cover and one under the clutch cover - just undo the allen bolts and lift the crank away from the handle - should be enough clearance to get the old breather out and a new one in. This may help...or confuse - http://www.h-machine.jp/part_list/husqvarna/254_1998.pdf

On the 254, there is a grey palstic tube that runs across the top of the fuel tank, you need to grip it with some long nose pliers and push it out, you will also need to undo the AV mounts so you can get the tube and breather out of the tank.

Thanks Ash - hope the 020 does some good service now, it sounds like your saw has the standard decomp and that is good - hope the advice all makes sense. I have been fixing up a MS200T that is now running like a champ and is on the shelf ready for sale as is the Husqvarna 254 after having a new piston and crank seal. Started on a stihl hedge trimmer - a non runner that decided to run perfectly when I ran it up - little bugger took one look at me and threw in the towel - found a load of crud in the breather that probably wasn't helping and will clean & rebuild the carb and try again. Filter and fuel pipe seem good.

Make sure all those parts are kept separate, don't want any more Frankensaws on this thread:001_rolleyes:

The loss of power is the aluminium on the front of the piston becoming molten through overheating and stopping the ring from making good contact with the cylinder by holding it in. The saw doesnt need to seize solid, just get hot enough for the piston to melt - it is all the same:thumbdown:

Go to my "Whats on your bench today" thread, lots of good advice on there - if the piston isn't bad, you will need to remove the cylinder, clean of the aluminium transfer and probably fit a new piston. Don't run a new piston without removing the aluminium transfer

I recently serviced a lawnmower for someone my wife knows, the message from the misses was the choke was a problem and on starting it, it would only run on choke so stripped the carb before the owner came round and then said the clutch was the problem. By then, the mower was running much better but the drive wasn't:001_rolleyes: Fixed the clutch (broken actuator arm) and handed it back and the owner still wouldn't have it that the mower choke wasn't right. Anyway, he comes round today and says when he first used it, it nearly pulled his arms out of their sockets as he wasn't used to it producing so much power:001_rolleyes: Spud 1 customer 0....right as normal! Been hassled by a guy I know for a Stihl blower so picked one up and gave it a good farm out today - he should be happy, good comp and runs and idles perfectly. Started work on a MS200T today, one of mine and typically full of oil and chip - this is generally what these machines look like after a few years use! Gave the saw a quick run up before stripping and I needed to richen up both H&L screws to run properly so was surprised that the carb boot was perfect - just hope the crank seals are OK!

Seen the guy who makes my loops test his chains to make sure the link freely turns after riviting, if it is tight he rejects it. Reckon the rivit was too tight as previous guys have said. Check your chain catcher is still in place - I never send out a saw without one whether the owner wants it or not:001_rolleyes: