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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. Looks like a Stihl Lightening to me - 106cc - 58mm bore - bit more info here - Model Profile: LIGHTENING
  2. The choke lever shows it is a 254, the 262 has a beefier one on the other side.....plus the removable air filter cover, the small holding pod in the bottom of the handle, muffler etc.
  3. Welcome to the Husqvarna Owners Club:thumbup: We are a fine bunch of gents with a penchant for wearing hats with cow horns on them, rowing big boats and wielding big axes:thumbup:
  4. Not sure about the tag of "Chainsaw Geek" .....well perhaps:blushing: The Banana cut is generally down to the rails opening up or wearing unevenly - both mean the cutters on one side of the chain get worn down faster and need more sharpening meaning further sharpening and uneven cutting. Seen some classics in my time:001_rolleyes: Put the bar in a bench vice and put a straight edge at 90 deg on the top of the bar - it should lay flat across it. There should also be negligible chain roll when a NEW chain is pushed side to side with the drive links in the bar. Only got to this level of geekness on timed cuts on tuned saws:thumbup:
  5. Looks just like a Stihl to me, it is orange and grey afterall:lol: The only place Stihls are not imported is the country of origin - Germany
  6. BTW my tree had been reduced to 2/3 height before the neighbour had his waste throwing episode - it has rather changed my outlook on this sort of issue - we moved in the end to get away from the guy - Grrrrrrrrrr 60' is a bit excessive:blushing:
  7. The earlier post that said your neighbour has no right to ask you to cut your trees down:thumbup: Spot on, anything you do is up to you, she has no legal right to Satelite reception. The trees were probably there when the dish went up - lazy engineer, you bet. Do you go for the option of cutting or topping the connifers - up to you, do you get on with the old bird next door - you may like a bit of sport or a wind up but be sure that you know where it will end - any legal action can get expensive if costs are split or go against you. I guess the easy option is to get the things topped but having been through similar things myself makes me temted to tell people to go forth as people have strange ways of approaching the subject of reducing trees - my old neighbour was caught throwing garden waste over my fence in to my garden - we called him Bell End for good reason:lol:
  8. Forgot to mention earlier - check your spacer gasket on the Diaphragm side is between the carb body and the diaphragm - many people get this wrong and it means the carb isn't primed with enough fuel to run properly!
  9. Ebay - Tesgol, Leon Danikrops Greek and Max Moto Latvia - all decent traders. If you can't get one, PM me and I will let you have a contact in Germany who gets Golf ones in!
  10. Thicker the better - most gets thrown off, little and often works. Needles are damn strong and survive well against lack of maintenance! I do use a little chain oil on Outboards with no central greasing point.
  11. Make sure the piston is the correct diameter - unbranded ones can be hit or miss, Meteor are the best IMO, Episan are good, if they are not available, Golf are OK - if you are fitting an unbranded one, it would be worth fitting Stihl rings on it as I have had some let loose on me and don't trust them any more - Caber rings are also very good. Make sure ALL the aluminium transfer has been taken off, the bore is Nikasil or chrome plating so a convential hone is bad news, some guys use a soft hone but I prefer Acid and light use of wet and dry paper. I generally have a high rate of success and have had some relly bad ones brought back to life for around half the cost of a new OEP P&C:thumbup: Many examples on my "Whats on my Bench" thread
  12. 0.325 and 1.3mm would be the normal choice with a semi chisel chain! Other options may work but won't feel as good in use.
  13. Didn't the US sites I suggested come up with the goods? That is the only place I could find them - think they are known as Red Max in the US!
  14. Ever get the feeling that they don't like your shortlist:lol: Guess I would review the info and perhaps try the new Husqvarnas:thumbup:
  15. You will find an Oregon Micro Lite Pro and 95VPX will run nicely on your saw. Your local dealer sounds like he doesn't know much about saws if he reckons 0.325 bar and chain will run on a 3/8 sprocket of vice versa!
  16. If the saw is that filthy, it may be the breather, loosen the fuel cap so the seal is broken with the tank only half full and try to start it, if it goes alot better, the breather is plugged - it is located on the inner part of the handle under the top rear of the crankcase - you need to undo all the rear AV mounts and push the rear handle downwards to get to it.
  17. Nice clean saw that is! Had a mixed weekend, hedge trimmer lost compression and split a fuel primer button, pole cutter damaged a union and I never finished the job Got to fix them now....Grrreeeaaaattttt:lol:
  18. Check the fuel lines, filter and then strip the carb down taking care to look at the internal gauze filter. Worth checking the fuel tank breather and that the H&L screws are one turn out on both.
  19. The flooding from cold can be linked to a needle valve in the carb not shutting off properly - it can cause fuel to leak in to the crankcase if the saw gets hot from being cold as the tank can pressurise and force fuel past the valve - depends on what sort of breather the saw has - one way or two way flow!
  20. I think my dads got one in his garage - full of Whitworth spanners, BSA & Triumph parts and a Seagull engine on it - like to see todays desks give the same service. From memory, I think it had the holes for the ink wells - must be pretty old, bit like him:lol:
  21. Not a great deal of experience but changed my 345 over for a purchaser who used Aspen, all I did was drain the saw, let it stand a few days to dry out and then refill and tach, no adjustment necessary. I have heard that you may need to change the carb components due to absorbtion of fuel but personally would run one or the other and just do the same as the above.
  22. Unfortunately there is a chasm between the Chinese aftermarket kit and the original Mahle components, the Chinese stuff will work and sometimes well but have had a few problems with them including pistons with the arrows pointing in the wrong direction, bad ring ends, brittle rings that have snapped and poorly beveled ports that have snagged a ring. Personally on a saw like this, I would be looking at salvaging the cylinder if possible, fitting a Meteor/Episan piston or Original Husky one and then doing a plug chop to make sure the colour is OK! Not good on a recent saw:thumbdown: Oh - I have purchased through Sawbits (Tesgol on ebay) and he is a decent and honest trader and has in my past, honoured any issues - unlike many others!!
  23. Cylinders from Mahle have "A" or "B" or "C" on the top, they should be fitted with the corresponding piston which will be stamped A, B, A/B or C on its crown - worth getting the ID on the cylinder type and a shot of the piston crown - A.... B piston in an A cylinder would produce a tight fit and may cause problems - A is the smallest and C the largest....by a tiny amount!
  24. Been rebuilding a Stihl 024 for a neighbour that wants a saw for firewood, found the lower recoil lug and case had been broken so welded up a new piece as in the first picture and then rivited and JB welded it in place before tapping and spraying it, looks liek a solid repair:thumbup: Once I get 5 minutes to play I will be experimenting with the ported 357 with various bars, chain pitch and rim drives - Rob D has kindly sent over a new bar for test - 3/8 18" so will be interested to see how it performs against a standard 0.325 and a Micro lite Oregon - the 18" microlite and a couple of chains were also purchased from Chainsawbars.co.uk for a very reasonable price:thumbup:
  25. Thats some real nice work, goodluck with the new venture.

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