spudulike

Glad someone else agrees - found the Maltese people very friendly when I went out there a few years ago - they like the English and all our old cars and buses - we helped them in WW2 - quite a history there - read about "Faith Hope and Charity" three Gloster Gladiators we lent them to defend the Island!

I reckon the guy is OK, he has purchased your Landie, knows you want cash so has refunded you your Paypal fees (4%) on top of paying you the sum the item went for. Step 1, transfer the cash from the paypal account in to your bank account, that way no one can grab it back - this can be done until it is moved to your bank. Find out the details of the forwarder the guy is using, phone them and make sure they have you on their manifest to pick the car up. It sounds OK, if it wasn't, he wouldn't have paid and wouldn't have refunded your fees - sounds like a decent bloke - I have paid for packing and refunded fees if I have picked up a bargain! Good luck - 90% sure it will work out!

It probably would in that wood, but not with a 2.5' bar - taking it easy on the revs as it has a new piston but will go even better once it is run in a little - the revs are pretty conservative at the moment - you can hear it fourstroke whilst it isn't under much load in the cut! PPE - thought I had better put the vid up wearing some rather than my shorts:lol: you obviously missed by steel toe cap gardening shoes:001_rolleyes:

Oh, I forgot.....you are silly:lol:

The flywheel - the aluminium disk behind the recoil cover has to be held in a position on the crank shaft to ensure the coil sparks at the optimum time - this is refered to as ignition timing. The way this is done is to key the flywheel on to the crank shaft with a steel key - in engineering terms - a "woodruff key". The picture below shows a broken key!

Been trying the ported 064 out, the vid is below, it is pretty loud and the chain is a bit shot but cuts well now, also pressure and vac tested the MS00T that I am working on. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khD7n-ECrTE&feature=player_detailpage]Ported Stihl 064 cuts Poplar - YouTube[/ame]

The acid you need is any that will dissolve aluminium, I use Hydrochloric Acid (HCL) also known as Muriatic acid which is an older name for it. Your 024 sounds like it has seized and someone has fitted a new piston without clearing the aluminium transfer - this MUST be cleaned off otherwise it will take the rings out very quickly - if you look at yours, you will see small grooves in them which has been caused by the aluminium transfer. I have shown before and after images of cylinders I have cleaned up on this thread. Some would fit a chinese kit but my experience of these isn't great, generally lower compression, over tempered brittle rings, poor bevel on ports, bad piston to cylinder tolerances etc. I always try to clean the OEM cylinder and fit a good quality piston - the Meteor ones are Italian made and come with Caber rings used by many manufacturers....lecture over:001_rolleyes: The H screw all the way in was almost definitely the route cause for the issue and not corrected when the new piston was fitted - the type of guy doing these sorts of repair say that this sort of repair is easy:001_rolleyes: Good luck with it - just make sure that the cylinder is 100% otherwise you will risk the new piston - you may get away with using the piston with new OEM rings - choice is yours but know what I would do.

The most common reason for backfiring is a hot curry and too much Cobra larger on a Friday night, the cure is to eat tofu and humus:lol: Back firing generally screams that the flywheel key has been sheared or the flywheel has come loose and moved. I have had a couple like this and it sared the bejesus out of me until I found it. Other possible issues could be a faulty ignition coil sparking incorrectlyor arking HT lead. It would usually mean that you are getting fuel vapour in the muffler and this is getting ignited by a retarded spark (after TDC rather then circa 6 deg before). My first check would be the flywheel key but anything that could cause intermittent spark or a retarded ignition timing is suspect. Good luck - it's a Stihl......go buy a Husky:blushing:

I think I may have one somewhere, you get the saw going by yourself under my tuition and it is yours FOC! If the old girl won't run then it is £3 to you:thumbup: Call it an incentive:lol: Progress so far, compression is OK, spark is sound, now working on breathers and fuel pipe, next step, the carb. As I said earlier - failure is not an option:biggrin:

The 14" will be nicer, the stihl equvalents are the MS181 & 171, they tend to use a narrower kerf chain to maintain cut speed - I personally prefer the build of the Husky as it feels a bit sturdier but many use the Stihl product and they do a good job. They are all typical home owner saws and are OK for a bit of firewood/logging but will never excite you!

My advice on these saws is go for a 15" 1.3mm gauge bar - with that they will work well - I have seen 18" fitted and it will struggle with this set up.

I was right....http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI1973_AAaa/HUSI1973_AAaa_I7300005_.pdf This shows it as a stone cutter with the air filter basket, there is a saw version - think I have a 480 and 280CDin my collection somewhere. Not bad saws in their day and will still do the job today!

Fired up the ported 064 and did a trial cut, didn't flinch or drop revs, lots of wallop, noise etc, all good. Stripping an MS200T to sell on, the side cover isn't stipped too often judging by most I get in, below is what they should look like and the two arrows point to the typical parts that break - a double ended cast tie bar that often fractures and a leaf spring that often breaks, mostly down to lack of cleaning and the excessive pressure this puts on the components. This one was OK

Its the treadmill for the hamster - this is what powers it! It looks like it is for a high performance air filter and that the power unit may have been a stone cutter in a previous life:lol:

Shall we start the Gibson Les Paul V Fender Strat thread:lol:

All 346XPs had clip type top cover retainers and the 345 has three screws retaining the top cover - easiest way of identification. The 346 has a die cast alloy crankcase, the 345 is a clam type engine in a plastic cradle.....you did ask:001_rolleyes:

The 346XP 45cc has a different air filter mount on the earlier models and the exhaust bracket was different plus the later silverside 50cc model had a bulb primer to make starting easier - there are probably a few more differences! The 345 is a decent saw, 45cc and will work really well on a 15" bar. It isn't a 346xp but is still light, revvy, good AV and you will enjoy using it. The price, if it has a little warranty is about right if it is in decent nick. The 345 is more a homeowner saw as it is open transfer port and no oiler adjuster but is still a punchy little number.

One important thing - the clutch is a left hand thread so turn the clutch CLOCKWISE to un do it. These clutches can be really tight so use a decent size wrench and a flat ended decent socket - I tend to use impact ones with the end ground flat on the toughies:thumbup:

Just purchased some thread lock capable of handling 250 deg centigrade - that should do it:thumbup: If bolts keep coming out - why just slap them back in again, clean them and add a little locking compound and try again. If this doesn't work, try a locking washer:001_rolleyes:

TGFT - I thought Wisewood had purchased an 017 to learn a bit of engine maintenance - they are pigs to work on - clam engines..... need to strip out the complete engine to get to the piston Looks nice - the piston and cylinder may be good - worth a tenner of your hard earnt:thumbup: Frying tonight:lol:

Pretty sure I am right after looking at a couple if IPLs, the SE and SG terms were used before Husqvarna started using XP for Xpert or Xtra power whichever takes your fancy with XPG being the heated handle version.

On the XP, the XPG has heated handles and the XP doesn't so I am thinking the SE is standard and the SG is the heated handle version but don't know for sure.

I've run a 345 for many hours on a 15" 0.325" 1.3MM and IMO a perfect balance - the 18" would work with the Oregon narrow kerf but a 16" would be better for the saw! Rob will sort out the lack of Husky bars on his site and fast delivery too:thumbup:

Like Burrell says, if parts do come loose then use an appropriate threadlock that will take the heat. Locktite do a massive range or a light smear of JB weld will have the same effect. Saws take a right beating, who actually checks the tightness of their screws and bolts? If I had the same ones coming loose regularly then I would use thread lock on it - simple:thumbup1: The Stihl bolts have little teeth on the underside to make them grip although they to also eat metal. I generally find more Stihl products missing bolts though:lol:

Get your crew together, explain that times are hard and this matter can't just be forgotten ask that the kit gets returned one way or another - doesn't matter if the kit just reappears without knowing the offender. If this doesn't happen, put it in to the hands of the law and call the police in. It is theft, doesn't matter that it is within a workplace, you need to at least get the insurance to pay up - a grands worth of kit is a grands worth of kit!!!