spudulike

It would be a nice challange, the same old same old can get a bit repetative - thats why I started porting....for a bit of fun:thumbup: If you get stuck, I will take a look at it, my cash is still on fuel which can be verified with the carb strip I mentioned earlier. Once you know where there is no fuel, you can find out where the issue is. If you look at the vid, the saw falters and dies then doesn't start on the first pull but takes a few pulls as if fuel needs to be pulled through the carb. Personally I would do a vac and pressure check with the carb boot and impulse line in place, rotate the crank and push and pull on the crank end float to make sure those crank seals are 100% and all rubber parts are good although the only part that I think would cause this issue is a cracked impulse line - the rest would lean the mix and cause other issues like racing or bad idle and over revving top end. Always a good starting point. Next step is to take a good look at the carb and drill down on faults in that area.

No worries Liam - a pleasure to help you out - especially with your saw getting pinched, not sure the wife agreed with the time your saw was in our porch, boxed & waiting to go though:lol: I did a little tweak to the squish to get more compression that should give the saw a bit more torque in the cut - useful on a saw like this. The rest was pretty much standard service. Took you a while to test it!

In my day, modified cars were insured with Adrian Flux - Classic Car Insurance & Specialist Car Insurance | Adrian Flux They insure classic and non standard cars, got no idea if they are competative but they have been going for ever and should have a good idea about landies! I have no affiliation with them and haven't used their services, just have a keen interest in modded cars and bikes:thumbup:

Lots of good guys on here with a wealth of knowledge and experience, let us all know how you get on and what it turns out to be - I think we will all be interested. Welcome to the forum by the way:thumbup:

I measured some of my "better fitting" T shirts and large was good for me - got wide shoulders and take 48" long suit and the 22-23" wide and 30" long was spot on - God alone knows who the XXL ones will fit - I won't be arguing with them! Just can't tell nowerdays - some large are perfect - my Husqvarna one was XL and is still a little tight:lol: Two on order:thumbup:

Cheers Steve, that will be one of each in large for me then - for everyones info, the large size is a generous quality shirt large and not one of these cheap shirt large that is really medium.

About time too Steve:thumbup: Can you post up the armpit to armpit length with the shirt in a flat position in each size. Sometimes large is fine on me but often XL is better and it will save me buying a couple and looking like a trussed up turkey ......no comments gents!

I have a 009 and the 010 is very similar, they are reed valve saws so aren't the fastest saws but are still reasonably punchy on a short bar and are reliable machines. The air filter needs constant changing and there is no AV on the 009 but they last well and the 009 was the biggest selling Stihl ever, don't know if this is still the case. So - old, slow revving, torquey saws - great for a bit of logging in the back garden! I think you may struggle with rim drives as I have only ever seen spur drums on them - you could try Gustharts - site sponsors, they are good to deal with!

No worries, it may be the clutch spring is getting close to needing replacement or you may find that once it has been used a bit, the thing beds in - sometimes if you heavily grease the oil pump pinion, it can cause the chain to spin until the grease dissipates. Run it for a bit and see how it goes, the idle should be around the 2700rpm or fast enough to stop from stalling but not too fast to spin the chain.

Are the cider, tomato soup and beans there to sustain you during trying to start it - part of a generous Stihl owners tool kit:lol: Sorry, it is getting late - enough mick taking for tonight:thumbup1: Surprised there are no cookies in the groceries:001_rolleyes: Did you get the PC fixed?

To clarify the stripping of the carb directly after the saw cuts out: - you would normally expect there to be fuel in the pumping section and also in the diaphragm to carb body void. What I would do is to let the saw die and then pop off the top and bottom cover on the carb one at a time and see if the carb is dry or has around 1/4 teaspoon of fuel under each cover. If the carb is dry, you aren't pumping fuel up to the carb, if the carb pumping section is wet but no fuel is in the diaphragm section then the needle valve or metering arm may be the problem. Worth tying a couple of times to ensure it happens each time. The vac/pressure test should really check the inlet boot, it sounds like this was bypassed with the method the agent used! Worth checking the inlet boot again, it is sometimes very difficult to see holes and splits in them but the problem sounds like lack of fuel to me. It may be some muck in the carb or even some water in it - worth ultrasonically cleaning it if possible.

Do they make chainsaws??

I like the double ended plastic Stihl piston stop, it works well and a good bash with a mallet on a screwdriver usually works, the thread is left handed so the clutch needs turning clockwise to undo it. Recoil rope stuffed in to the plug hole with the piston in a position just above the exhaust port is also a good option, especially for larger kit.

If you need one, then I'm in - just say the word if I am needed but have seen Wolfmans stash of saws and think if he is around, all you are gonna be left with is chips:thumbup:

Sounds like most of the normal items have been done but obviously haven't cured it. The pressure and vac check should immediately tell you if the crank seals are bad or on the way out - did you see this being done? The pressure and vac test will also tell you if the impulse line or carb boot is holed, if the test has been done correctly, the saw should be air tight - did the tester move the crank shaft round whilst the saw was being checked? This should be done to fully test the seals. From your video, it looks like the saw when in the felling position, runs out of fuel and then, when trying to start it, it doesn't start right away like a warm or hot saw should. When hot, does the saw start right away on the first pull? One thought is that the fuel line is non standard and is shoving the fuel filter in to the filler end of the fuel tank so when on its side, it dies - well worth a check. My other thought is to let the saw die in the felling position and then strip the carb down immediately and see where the fuel is in the carb - pumping section, diaphragm or neither! Worth checking the colour of the plug and if it is wet or dry as well. Are the AV mounts OK? I once had a Husky that would over rev when held downward and it was shot AV mounts but think probably not! I have heard of the crank seals having this effect but it usually manifests itself as poor idleing and over revving. IMO, it looks fuel related and looks like it runs out of fuel. Where about's in the country are you, I do one or two saw repairs for members who have run out of patience, luck and usually pick up the problems no one else has fixed or want - story of my life:001_rolleyes: you may find one of the other guys/sponsors are local to you and can assist! Let us know how you get on!

I will leave it with my wife for you , in case I am out!- no charge:thumbup:

Just caught up with this thread after Rich just phoned me, well done Matty, Martin didn't say what he was up to when he said he was working for you for free! I probably can't do much as I am a bit late to the party but if you need any help, saws etc then drop me a line. Well done again - that 80yr old fella sounds like my dad - 80 going on 18:001_rolleyes:

On the parts lists I was consulting, there were two clutch drums, one for 3/8 and one for 0.325, perhaps you were trying the 3/8 drum on the 0.325 pinion or vice versa. Here is the parts list- http://www.jonsered.ws/2159.pdf it may help On the baffle plate - it is easier to remove the muffler and look in to the exhaust port side, on the exhausts with the front facing tube type exhaust outlet, they have a baffle plate in the middle of the muffler - I know as I drilled mine out on my poprted 357XP. The 346XP muffler comes in may guises but mine is an empty can with a spark arrestor and a hole underneath - now a much larger hole:thumbup: 85db is very quiet with 114dm being typical on standard machines - I would imagine that this saps power! Not sure if different 357XPs have different power for different models- agree with Stubby, the auto decomp was horrible and removal is the best thing for it.

I know how much it was but isn't for me to say but the saw is a very sound one in damn near original condition. Looks like it has done a few months work with just a light coating of dirt in a few areas. If I wanted a saw this size and needed a saw for business, I would have bought this one:thumbup:

Same MO, tools, options, security - exceptions and then enter the website you want to accept cookies from as an exception. If you are using Zone Alarm, McAfee, Symantec or any other security/firewall package, this will also need to have an exception set up. Not sure what a "Weresx" is, I am sure it is very exciting:001_rolleyes: Good luck

From what I can tell, the Jonsered 2159 shares parts with 357XP and 359, all list the same oil pinions and clutch drums. As far as exhausts go, the less baffles there are in the exhaust, the better. The spark arrestor one sounds like the one off the 346XP, is there a baffle plate in it? If not, it will probably breath better than the one off the 357XP as standard with the forward facing exit on the front of the exhaust.

Have you clicked on the "trusted site" arrow and added the web site to your trusted sites. Other than that, are you using third party firewall/security software?

Looks 056 to me!

Sorry Alec, that is no 048 in the pic, they look like larger 038s! £150 is OK for a nice condition all working older saw with a decent bar and chain. Bargains are always possible out there though:thumbup:

If you are on Wndows and Internet Explorer, top of the page, "tools", internet options, security.....you can either lower your security or set up a firewall trusted site to accept cookies on a certain domain.