spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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That saw with 15" 0.325" bar will have a typical 1.3mm gauge and 64 drive links. Semi chisel is easier to sharpen and the edge will last longer in dirty wood but it won't be as aggressive in the cut as full chisel which will need a bit more care when sharpening. If your bar is getting a bit tired, fit one of Oregons Microlite pro bars and 95VPX chain, it will liven it up a bit, not that the 350 isn't already:thumbup: I used Husqvarna semi chisel on my 345 for years and it always worked well. Just re-read the thread, saw you are using it for carving - not my thing but the comments above stand for general logging
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Yup, good saw, bit like the 346XP of today, light, powerful and was the defacto groundsaw of that size in the day. Well made and reliable. In good nick they will go for £200 perhaps more with a decent bar and chain.
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I normally run Stihl RSC full chisel but on a smaller saw like yours, the Oregon Micro lite pro bar and 95VPX chain will bring the saw to life a tad - should be much faster in the cut being narrow kerf.
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As others have said, check the rim drive if fitted, the sprocket bearing but also the clutch springs, one may have gone and the loose clutch segment may be hitting the clutch drum on rotation. Pull the side cover off and get down and dirty - I wouldn't use it until the fault is found - just in case. Does the chain spin round at idle or is it stationary? If you don't know then check out the above before trying!!
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Just soaking a carb is no use, best to strip it down, clean it with carb cleaner or and ultrasonic cleaner and reassemble. Adjusting the carb is a bit of a job if you don't know what you are doing, the 024 can be tricky to do and the H screw setting can cause damage to the saw. Standard settings are 1 turn out on both the H&L screw. If the H screw is too far out, the motor will smoke heavily and won't rev, it the H screw is too far in the motor will either over rev or die at high revs. If the L screw is too far in the saw will die when reved, too far out and it will be sluggish to pick up and not idle well if left too long - it will smoke a tad when revved from idle after standing.
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That 038 looks like one really abused machine:lol: should last another 30 years doing a bit of firewood! Been doing a bit of DIY on the house and it is curtailing my saw fixing, got an MS200T on the bench, one of mine and it needs a bit of TLC as it is low on compression but that will be sorted. The DIY - palstering the kitchen ceiling as it was artexed, new spotlights, coving, painting the walls, new flooring and skirting - deep joy!
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Chinese P&C
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I get the feeling that the workshop manual will give you more questions than answers! Lack of power could be a number of things, compression is one and it can also give hot starting issues as compression drops on a hot engine causing issues. Other easy things to check - clean the air filter and make sure the fuel filter is clean. Check the spark plug and make sure it is a nice coffee colour on the electrode. Other than that, common loss of power can be caused by dirt in the carb internal gauze filter or the setting of the H & L screw being out. Typically a 024 on a 14" bar on Stihl full chisel should pull well and cut through 10" timber with ease. Fitting an 18" bar on will kill the saws performance. Has the saw lost power over time or just recently?
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Generally these saws are pretty smooth with very good AV, do your crank bearings sound OK, any hollow sounding squealing is bad news. Is your flywheel complete with all its fins present? You could try a bit of threadlock on the screws, if the saw is old and has been stripped a few times, it may just be that the screw threads are a bit loose. The idle problems may be something to worry about, check the colour of the plug, if it is coffee brown - great, if it is white/graphite grey, richen the H screw and get it checked out ASAP. If the saw has the automatic decomp it may be this, they also have problems with the inlet boot splitting on the impulse connection and make sure the metal band has been fitted to the inlet boot as this is another problem area. The 357XP is a great saw but has a few issues that need a bit of checking if experiencing problems.
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Very nice job, I would stick a silencer on it though, good for game shooting and not annoying the neighbours - those PCP rifles are whisper quiet with one:thumbup: Got a TX200 and a S300 plus a Rowan mag on mine.
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Now now Alec - how you going to get that monster past the wife:001_rolleyes:
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Better in dirty wood and no need to match sprocket to bar as the solid one will take any pitch chain:thumbup:
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Mmm, not the first time I have seen this happen, always good to find the route cause of failure and should give you a few years of use now:thumbup:
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He will have a working 066 by Thursday next week, it was far from that when it landed in my workshop:thumbup:
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No worries Al, sounds like a good deal and pretty much the same as I did to one of the members MS880 on this site. Hope you managed to find the route cause for the original seizure, it is always important to do this otherwise the new piston will go the same way:thumbdown: The one I did was down to the carb being adjusted as per the decal on the side of the air box but the only problem was that this was done with the limit caps off - the true setting was 1 & 1 on the H&L and not 1/2 on the H screw. Hope it all works out and glad my advice has given your saw a new lease of life and for minimum cost:thumbup:
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Yes - you said you had adjusted it - the newer plastic handle is non adjustable - you may be able to pick up a cheap secondhand unit off ebay. The two prong spring that Adamn mentions is easily broken on stripping and is on the newer units.
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Yes Martin, before you ask, you are welcome to come round and get your chain sharpened FOC for you my friend:001_rolleyes: Oh - FOC = free of charge:thumbup:
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Martin - I have a problem with this, here I am plastering over artex in my kitchen, covered in crap and you are out there having fun with your hareem of chainsaws. it just isn't on:001_rolleyes: Nice job, good grain and think you are right about the rock hard wood I was describing to you - it is elm, same grain and colour! Nice new toy - I have a new bit of kit on order - something to play with on the next "Boys day out":thumbup:
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You will need to strip it and inspect for wear but my thoughts are that there is either a wealth of crap in the mechanism that needs cleaning or the pivot part - 501 87 53-01 has worn. The attached files may help - I am thinking you have the older metal handled chainbrake. Husqvarna%20266.pdf HOUS1983_O8300002.pdf
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It will make a nice doorstop or boat anchor:lol: Even I struggled to get any sort of reliabillity out of a couple of these I picked up once - 2 for £35!!!
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Not heard of Mako, new one on me, my recommendation is: - 1) Meteor 2) Episan 3) Golf but use the OEM circlips 4) White box Chinese I do rate the Golf pistons above the typical Chinese kit - had rings snap on the unbranded kit, a few minor problems with Golf but zero problems with Meteor - always top notch. Your compression is weird, my usual method is to make sure the saw has run a day to hours before testing, put the throttle on fast idle, pull the saw over, check the first hit - this should be around 1/2 maximum comp - then give it another 5 pulls until it won't rise any further. 145-155 is typical of a good engine, higher on a really fresh or modded saw.
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The price is a bit high but the shop is offering a 3 month warranty and service so as long as the bar, chain and sprocket are OK it isn't a too bad buy. My advice - if you buy it then use it hard for 3 months and any fault - back to the shop:thumbup: They aren't great saws but they last for years and having serviced a 28 year old one that came up looking spanking, they last prety well. Seen other people buy saws for low prices and then have to pay someone like me a wedge to get them going properly as they didn't quite live up to expectations:thumbdown:
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Had a similar low compression readings on a 254 I was doing but generally you are straight in to 145 - 155psi with a new piston in an old bore, could be the bore has worn slightly oval over many years. Did you clear all the aluminium transfer off the bore - this was probably my issue and another clean and new piston cleared it. The quality of the piston will also make a difference - that is bore to skirt clearance. 120psi is low and will give problems with starting when hot - looks like you have some issues somewhere. I believe these saws have got a large starter pulley as mine now pulls 160psi but still feels on the low side on the recoil. It is worth pulling the muffler again to check the piston front for damage - I think I left some slight traces of Aluminium on the exhaust port - unusual for me:001_rolleyes: What piston did you use, mine was Golf and they are fairly good quality - couldn't get a Meteor this time.
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Yes, when they go, they really do go so anybody reading this - don't run up a saw without a bar and chain when the clutch has been off - thats if you value your good looks, windows and light fittings:lol:
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Cheers Martin, details passed on and will see what occurs!
