spudulike

It is possible the little brass contact isn't pushed completely home - it is usually on the end of a black wire and pushed in to the moulding off the switch control shaft that runs horizontally along the air box - just in front of the throttle part of the handle - may be able to do some pics later. The theory is that when you push the choke lever upwards, the brass bit makes contact with the stainless leaf spring that is earthed - the coil is on the other end of the black wire and this shuts off the spark. Just make sure that in th estop position, the brass contact is making contact with the leaf spring. If the problem isn't as above, it will be either no earth on the leaf spring, a sheared or damaged black wire or the contact on the coil. It is a very simple circuit - junior electronics:thumbup: Those leaf springs are fiddly feckers at the best of times though!

It is probably either the kill wire has come off the coil or got damaged but the most likely problem is that the kill wire end isn't making contact with the earthed spring that is part of the switch. Take off the covers and you will see what I mean!

Got a clean Husky 41 in, a pig to start, cleaned and adjusted the carb and will see if it is any better once back together again. Started rebuilding an 026 that has been sitting on my shelf way too long. A member on this site wanted it but haven't heard from him for a while - anyone want a rebuilt 026:001_rolleyes: Cylinder cleaned up, new Meteor piston fitted, it is pulling 180psi - nice:thumbup: pressure check and vac check were both fine.

Wot he said:thumbup: worth disconnecting the kill switch wire from the coil and trying it again as sometimes they chafe and earth out. I have had a saw with the same symptoms that just needed the gap between the flywheel and coil closing up. Are you pulling the saw over pretty fast? Some saws need a good tug to produce a fat spark - the 066 seems to be one of them! You will find a number of models will share the same coil so a spare shouldn't break the bank if it is bad - 503 90 12-01 is the part number - looks like the 254 shares the same part.

Where are the decent people in this world.....Oh - cutting down an old boys tree in Royston free of charge after he busted his back:thumbup: Who can you trust:thumbdown:

Check the fuel line and filter, especially if it has been sat with fuel in it. Spray a bit of WD40 down the bore, see if there is a spark and then try to get it going. Post up any issues and am sure we can all help to get the beast cutting again. Bulletproof saws, last for years and loads of spares out there. Make sure the chain catcher and brake band are in place and working order!

Your bank will not send you mails with links to log on nor will Paypal - had some real convincing ones, nor will any other financial organisation. I have messed with a few of these bogus mails, the link domain generally is nothing to do with the bank - some look like direct copies of the bank home page and if you enter fictitious details, they thank you and redirect you to the real bank home page - first thing you know is the emptying of your bank account! Ignore all of these emails, even if they appear to be from your own bank, they are all scammers and your bank will write or phone if something is really amiss!

No, will use liquid gasket unless the squish is all wrong but can make gaskets in various thicknesses!

Get the crew round to yours - reckon they would make short work of your window frames:thumbup:

TBH, I replace AV mounts when the rubber bonding to the steel mounts starts delaminating and breaking down or when there is simply too much play in the mount itself - the spring type ones usually just distort but don't often actually break. Generally a worn AV mount means that there is play between the motor and handle cradle that isn't attributed to the movement in the AV mount. The kit I get in is generally not running and the AV mounts are the last thing on the owners mind but do replace if shot or looking/feeling past it.

Bit like your DIY as well - hows the paintig coming on:lol:

Good idea Martin, know anybody with a lathe:001_rolleyes:

Too much on this weekend - fixed Rich Rules MS200 carb followed by an elusive oiler problem on another MS200 traced back to a faulty oil pump. Had a Jonsered 2045 in with a fuel problem - stripped the carb and readjusted. I then started work on a Stihl 064 in for porting and poor starting, the cylinder has a bit of aluminium transfer - now sorted the middle picture shows the acid at work. The piston was a bit scored and also had a chunk out of it where it had started melting during a small seize, have a new one on order and when this arrives, will start porting it. From what I have seen so far, the piston doesn't allow for much port widening - the inlet looks like it wil take more then the exhaust. Will rework the transfers a little, optimise the squish and do a muffler mod.

On a saw of this size, 145psi is a reasonable to good reading - the scores on the piston are either down to carbon or a small seize - if there is aluminium on the cylinder, it is the latter. Sounds like it is cutting OK and with that compression it should work OK.

Very possible - my two were crap in the gauze filter or possible that the needle valve plating had lifted making it difficult to open when on its side - had an 020AV like that!

Carb cleaner is pretty damn good otherwise the wifes Oxy washing cleaner and very hot water works well as does a bit of detergent and bleach in hot water.

Glad it turned out OK in the end but still not sure of the route cause - could it be crap in that gauze filter? Anyway, sounds like it is all good now:thumbup:

Well done lads, many familiar faces there. I couldn't do much to help so I was fixing saws that Rich and Stu dropped off whilst you guys were having all the fun! Glad it all turned out well, the weather wasn't bad for it and it is nice to see a bit of goodness in society rather then the normal bad news! Well done.

Mine landed today, size was spot on - even the Missus liked them:thumbup:

Sounds like Triggers brush on Only Fools and Horses - "had it 15 years and it has had three new handles and five new heads":lol:

This may help with spares but no rim drive listed - http://www.motoculture-jean.fr/upload/pdf/010_011.pdf Oregon 28016X is the 6 pin 3/8 spur sprocket.

It would be a nice challange, the same old same old can get a bit repetative - thats why I started porting....for a bit of fun:thumbup: If you get stuck, I will take a look at it, my cash is still on fuel which can be verified with the carb strip I mentioned earlier. Once you know where there is no fuel, you can find out where the issue is. If you look at the vid, the saw falters and dies then doesn't start on the first pull but takes a few pulls as if fuel needs to be pulled through the carb. Personally I would do a vac and pressure check with the carb boot and impulse line in place, rotate the crank and push and pull on the crank end float to make sure those crank seals are 100% and all rubber parts are good although the only part that I think would cause this issue is a cracked impulse line - the rest would lean the mix and cause other issues like racing or bad idle and over revving top end. Always a good starting point. Next step is to take a good look at the carb and drill down on faults in that area.

No worries Liam - a pleasure to help you out - especially with your saw getting pinched, not sure the wife agreed with the time your saw was in our porch, boxed & waiting to go though:lol: I did a little tweak to the squish to get more compression that should give the saw a bit more torque in the cut - useful on a saw like this. The rest was pretty much standard service. Took you a while to test it!