spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Just need a rat infested log pile:thumbup: Martins mate did say he had trouble with rabbits!
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That would be a good look:lol: reckon th elocal old bill would drag me in for assesment:001_rolleyes: Cheers Andy - when you are ready......
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Lets not get hung up about calibre, the guy wants to shoot a few bunnies for £300 or under, that will really squeeze a PCP budget as a decent rifle on its own will be in that range and no budget for a pump or scope. Look at the Weihrauch and Air Arms kit. I own a Walnut Stock TX200 and believe that it is generally accepted to be one of the best springers on the market out of the box. TX200 beech stock around £200 secondhand and £80 for a decent zoom scope - job done. 177 for a flatter trajectory or .22 for more wallop - my feeling .22. Try some of the Airgun Forums or gun trader for some prices - times are hard and bargains are around.
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Stihl and Husqvarna are the top saw manufacturers in the world, they have more agents and a far better supply and longevity of spares. Makita purchased Sachs Dolmar a few years ago to get in to the saw market. Their saws are fine as far as I know but spares and service will always be more difficult than the top two. I can pick up spares easily for saws 10 - 20 years old - quick repair turn around is generally important for jobbing arbo types:thumbup: BTW - I am not knocking the Makita saws - I don't know enough about them to do so:lol:
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Air Arms springer or PCP, got two myself, mid budget guns but up to legal power and very accurate. If you go PCP, factor in a pump or cylinder - you will also need a good scope as decent rifles don't come with open sights nowerdays. I have a TX2OO and a S300 with custom magazine! PCP is best as it has zero recoil and can be made whisper quiet with a silencer.
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Already on the case - cheers:thumbup:
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My thoughts - check the breather or at least loosen the fuel cap and try to start as this sounds a bit like a blocked breather. If it isn't that then the metering arm may be a little low and need raising or the diaphragm may have gone baggy and causing the same effect. Always worth checking the gauze filter in the carb, always a favourite fault!
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I believe the oil starts degrading past four weeks, the increase in ethanol in the fuel won't help either. I usually use the old fuel in the mower after 4 weeks in the tuned saws and 6 weeks in others
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The racing on the short bar and not on the long one is almost definitely caused by the short bar having less friction and spinning where the large one is stoping the chain spinning - the route cause will be either the idle is too fast or their is twine/crud around the clutch/sprocket bearing, crank shaft, sprocket bearing - a worn clutch spring is also possible. Give the clutch area a good old dowsing with WD40, then squirt a bit of oil on it to lube the sprocket bearing and try it again. It is possible the clutch spring is a bit saggy and that can be a prime cause for the chain spinning when the idle is set correctly. Try this before doing anything else!
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Well done, we got there in the end, that hole in th ebottom of the dog is for the roller type, both dogs have them and the roller is secured on one side and a push fit through the other! Good luck with the saw, bed it in gradually over 10 - 20 tanks, small bar and short cuts to begin with and then heavier stuff later - getting a reputation for these 066/MS660s now:thumbup:
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Thats what I said a few days back:001_rolleyes: Oh ye of little faith - I do know what I am doing!! Just buy it - only around £3, undo that bolt, slide the catcher in to the recess and put the bolt back in and do it up. The roller type can only be used with a two dog set up as it uses the second dog as support. Wish I had ordered the thing for you now Si:lol:
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Right - the part you need is 1125 640 1701 and the side cover off the 024/026 will fit and are listed as the same part, the MS240 and MS260 will also. The 028, 038, 044, 046 are also listed with the same number and probably a few others will also fit. Hope this helps, looks like it will be easy enough to find one
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Just pressure and Vac tested the MS200T - bugger, the seals are shot, bang goes getting it back together again:thumbdown:
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The 24 and 26 share the same side cover, others share side casings but the part numbers for the 24/26 don't match the 066. What are you looking for and I may be able to help what works with what!
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What about the Maxtra, Mcdillen and Boomag.....what was that song....don't blame it on the Boomag ....or something like that:001_rolleyes:
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Finished repairing my washing machine at midnight last night, it kept blowing fuses, had already stripped the motor which has now had around 6 sets of brushes on it so knew that was OK. The heating element was at 20 Ohms (OK) but that was the most likely cause. Ordered a new sort of replacement" off ebay - had this washer for around 17 years now:001_rolleyes: Fitted the new element and no hot water - fab, stripped the back off again, ran it up, metered the connections and got 240V, reconnected the element connections and bingo, one working machine with the element working again - original was showing signs of leakage between the heating element and the outer case hence it blowing fuses! Hope the thing carries on for a bit now and perhaps I can get the MS200T on my bench ready to sell:thumbup:
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Only other thing worth checking is that the fuel pipe isn't split but that usually gives other issues! Hope you get it sorted and is probably just old fine crap swilling round the tank being drawn past the fuel filter that is also probably full of fine crap!
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Thats sort of what I used to do until I saw this bit of kit - like to get a few tools in now and then for those tricky jobs - it was half price and brand new:thumbup:
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I had a similar conversation with Burrell about his 024. This gunk MUST be coming ini from the tank, the gauze filter is just after the fuel enters the carb, it can't come in from the bore/choke of the carb. I think your tank needs a damn good flushing out with fuel or perhaps white spirit, get some clean lint free cloth in there and give it a damn good wipe around, change your fuel filter for a new one and try again. Also use a petrol funnel with a gauze mesh filter in it plus make sure the cap and seal are cleaned regularly so no crap falls in to the tank. Cheap pure brisle paint bruushes are good for cleaning the caps! It is very unlikely the breather will be letting in dust unless it isn't original or is damaged. Hopefully this will sort the issue - I have seen metal fuel filters abrade the inside of the fuel tank and draw the plastic in to the carb - looked like orange gunk:lol:
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Normal reasons for saws seizing are: - 1) Old fuel mix being used - the petrol destroys the oil properties after being mixed for a period of time. Leaving a saw on the shelf for three months fueled and then doing big long cuts will kill a saw 2) Air leaks - these have the effect of leaning the mix down and causing over revving at the top end and a wandering or high idle speed. 3) Carb H setting being too lean, for those that don't know, the carb H setting is a fuel based rev limiter, set it too lean, the saw revs too fast and it will overheat and seize Very generally, most of what I see is old mix and bad carb settings killing saws. Aspen is a good solution but so is using fresh mix with a good quality oil and emptying old mix in to your lawnmower etc
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Andy has written my normal method, I always try to salvage the original cylinder and have done some really nasty looking ones - look at the what's om my bench thread. Pistons - Meteor are damn good and Italian produced. The oil thing, my 346 runs at around 14600rpm on stihl HP so it is rowlocks.
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The newer Husky coils have the HT lead potted in to the coil - I measure the resistance between the cut out connection and the ht inner cover where the plug electrode fits - it should give a reading of a few ohms. In life you get what you pay for, I would look out for a genuine second hand one. Many are interchangeable - 346, 357, 345, 350 etc
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You can check the resistance but this isn't conclusive as the trigger electronics can go bad. I usually make sure the gap between the flywheel and coil is correct, make sure the HT cable is good with a multimeter and if you still have no spark - with the cut out wire taken off, then junk it!
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I did say the pics were courtesy of....... Sorry - not mine!
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There was a guy banging out spares on ebay but just checked and he is gone. Probably easier to get another non runner and rip the spares off but these saws don't go for much:thumbdown:
