spudulike

The piston for the 066 on my bench arrived today - a nice Shiney Meteor "A" piston, perfect fit:thumbup: The HT lead on the saw was pretty shagged with bare wire showing - to save shocking the owner in more ways than one, I replaced the lead - always worth keeping a bit of 5mm HT lead in the workshop!

Yes, he is called Leo and is a reliable fellow - got one on order at the moment. Maxmoto from Latvia is also reliable. The only UK guy I know on ebay is Tesgol, I have purchased from him as well - he also was more than helpful when I had an issue with a P&C kit so is also a decent seller and that isn't always the case! Delivery from Greece/Latvia is around one week. If the bore has been seized, ensure ALL the aluminium transfer has been removed and re-bevel the exhaust port edges with abrasive paper otherwise the ring may get damaged.

Only foumd ebay or some of the US dealers!

Do a decent picture of it once stripped down, I may be able to tell if it can be done or just send it over to me if you are stuck and I will see what I can do if it helps- the choice is always yours:thumbup:

Pretty conclusive, just measured the cuts and the last setup was around 15% faster than the earlier ones. Pretty much supports our logic, just need to mod that oil pump and we will be there:thumbup: Thanks Martin - hope you find the sawdust and coasters useful:thumbup:

This all sounds a bit fishy to me:lol:

What is there between you and the chalet park, you may be able to deflect noise with a decent pile of logs, fence, wall etc. Probably best to talk to the bloke and see if the cutting between the hours of ?? to ?? will work, guess his customers don't want to be woken up at 8.00am when on holiday or be sitting down at 6.00pm to a BBQ and hear the saw going. I would guess a large percentage would be out and about during the day though! Just depends how much wood you are getting through - some people, especially in snooty villages are a bit up their own backsides - think Old Wood Chip won't make a diplomat though:lol:

Sorry if any of the sponsors on here do Husky parts but this company are pretty good - Quick Order Used them before.

That looks like the M25 on a Friday night around 5.00pm:lol: Good luck servicing that lot, it would keep me busy for a bit!

Still got both after 20 years of marriage, must be doing something right:lol: The Wok is truely impressive, looks like new after 20 years use!

Design wise, Husqvarna have thrown away the rules book on this saw, one major departure from convention is that the transfer ports are at the front of the cylinder rather than the sides, makes a bit of sense as the fuel vapour will be thrown forward by the movement of the crank straight in to the transfers. The crank lobes have stuffers to reduce the volumetric capacity of the crankcase to increase the velocity of the transfer ports, similar to the 357XP. The cylinder combustion chamber is machine turned and not cast, the carb has some fancy air inlets and the piston has some interesting cut aways, a bit like the Stihl Strato engines. In short, it looks like Husqvarna have gone to town on the design front, early signs are favourable with the only problem I am seeing is the autotune if it goes tits up but briefly played with Mattys saw and it is impressive.

Yup, just tried again myself - blocked, they must have changed their selling T&Cs:thumbdown:

I have got to say that I have around a 90% success rate salvaging cylinders, I have probably done 40-50 by now and always try to fit a quality piston to ensure a snug fit, Meteor wherever possible as they are without doubt the best after OEM ones and at £25 worth every penny IMO. The 254 is a good saw and worth around £200 in GWO. Not sure I managed to get Meteor for the one I did on the first page of this thread but fitted a Golf one and used OEM circlips as the ones supplied are never great. As long as the plating is intact and there are no gouges out of the transfers or deep scores above the exhaust port then it will work. You can see in my images that there was a thick smear of aluminium transfer on the right side of the exhaust port. It took an hour with the area covered in acid to get rid of it but am happy with the end results. A going over with some wet and dry paper, course then fine gets the residue of smeg off. Worse one was the MS880, also within this thread - had a lump of aluminium around 0.3mm thick on the bore that also cleaned up. The art is in clearing ALL the transfer off and leaving the bore very smooth otherwise the ring will be trashed first time out. The cylinder should last for years after this work but if you do this type of work - wear safety glasses and hand protection.

357XP as I don't do any felling, mostly firewood but do some semi large rings now and then plus it goes like stink.......now I have tweaked it.....a little:thumbup:

Try opening a UK account on Amazon.co.uk and then purchasing from the US site, I used my wifes account but unfortunately she didn't care for the surprise gift I had purchased for her:lol: I was quite hurt as it was one up from the quality Wok and Ken Dodd duster I got her one Christmas - you think I am joking

Got mine a few months back, in an Amazon box, all went fine. The problems may be not ticking the "Pay Duty" box or just the type of payment card in the checkout. Mine came in three days - nice bit of kit!

Just to prove what can be done with a bad seize on a chainsaw, this one I believe was old fuel but ALWAYS pressure and vac test the saw on re-assembly. First picture shows some heavy transfer of the piston aluminium on to the cylinder bore - got to say this looked borderline to me but I always try to save the original OEM part than fit a poorer quality Chinese part. Applied the magic chemicals and bingo - it cleaned up pretty well, slight score to the right of the exhaust port and a slight score from the exhaust port to the top of the bore but IMO, still better to fit a decent quality piston and this saw will make compression and run well after a few tanks through it. Shows clearly what can be done though:thumbup:

Spark plugs don't really wear and very rarely find the need to change them unless the electrodes are worn which is rare, Some may change them as preventative maintenence but personally I don't bother as they are pretty reliable nowerdays. The sprocket bearing is worth giving a squirt of thick oil or grease any time you have the side cover off, it will help it last but they are pretty resilient unless you have a MS261:thumbdown:

Usual reasons for excessive fuel to be in the exhaust are a blocked exhaust (blocked baffle or spark arrestor) or a leaking needle valve in the carb allowing fuel to leak through. Only other reason could be an excessively rich mix on the carb settings. If it turns out to be something like pressure building up in the fuel tank through temperature changes, you may be able to fit some sort of shut off valve in the fuel line.

In short - there are issues with the sprocket bearing, I haven't worked on one but it looks like the bearing colapses with use so look out for play on the sprocket or changing unexpected chain tensioning.

Personally, I always try to salvage the OEM cylinder and then get the best quality piston I can to fit it. The OEM cylinders are generally manufactured by Mahle and are top quality. Piston wise, Meteor pistons are the best after OEM and retail for around £25, Episan are the next best and then Golf and then Chinese white box. The after market cylinders are OKish for the price but have had issues in the past with poor piston to cylinder tollerance and low compression being just two of the issues. Garden Hire Spares are probably one of the better ones but still prefer the fit of a quality piston and OEM cleaned cylinder. The Chinese ones also tend to have rough cast finish on the base rather than machined so squish is variable and +1mm is common and not good IMO. I am doing a Stihl 066 at the moment and will put pictures up on my "Whats on your Bench" thread, looks bad but hopefully will clean up. Basically, if the cylinder is to be re-used, ALL the aluminium transfer needs to be chemically removed, the cylinder is lightly abraded and as long as the area above the exhaust port is relatively undamaged, it will be a runner:thumbup:

Nah, you arent the only one, don't know but reckon they come out of the same factory - both got links to Electrolux!

Rim drives tend to be smoother and harder wearing than spur sprockets. Very generally, rims are mostly found on pro saws ......I KNOW THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS:001_rolleyes:

If the saw has two years on it then it should have years left. As far as the previous amounts paid, it seems a common issue for some to charge for repair and then walk away from it when the issue isn't resolved but there are always good and bad repair shops. I will PM you what I can do for you but is entirely up to you what action you take and don't chase work, it is a hobby for me and only take on around 2-3 saws a month.

I am in North Herts and have helped out a few members with their saw woes in the past. I am not a business but know how to fix most issues with saws.