spudulike

As Gardenkit says, the rubber fuel lines will suffer with the extra ethanol being used, first signs will be that the fuel line will become soft and then turn in to something that looks like gutterseal:thumbdown: One thing we can do is run out the fuel and avoid leaving fuel in the tank if the kit is being left for a while without use. I also have noticed different smelling petrol - must stop smelling the stuff:thumbup: Worst case was a local guy with a 066, smoking like mad and kicking out something like kerosene - think his petrol had a shot of diesel in it which was being converted to paraffin on combustion filled my road with smoke which was a bit of fun!

Just read the post again - I know of no fuel air analysis equipement that you could use to tune saws, it is generally done with a tach on standard saws and a mix of tach, plug colour and cutting on ported/modified saws.

Yeah Rich, the 560 is a decent saw, very fast! Just spent the afternoon tweaking the ported 357XP to see if I can catch up with it - circa 0.4 sec faster on a three cut seven second run. Reckon it is possible - I was running a 2" longer bar at the time on the boys day out! Glad the saws are making the wonga:thumbup:

Right: - MS660 - 13,500 026 - 14,000 028 - 12,500 With a new cylinder and piston, I would still tune down by 1,000rpm until 10-20 tanks have gone through. You will find around +/- 1/4 turn around the factory setting makes the difference between overly rich and overly lean - most saws are similar but there are always exceptions. On some older saws, you will find that adjustment of the L screw effects the H and vice versa, this is down to the construction of the carb and you will need to go back and forth on adjustments until it is right but don't go too far away from factory. Last thing to be aware of, on some saws with limit caps on the H & L screw, the settings on the airbox refer to the settings WITH THE LIMIT\ CAPS ON and not with them off - I have had a couple of saws in that have seized where the owner has misread this info. Typically, most carbs are factory set to 1 & 1 turn H & L screws - use as a general guideline - Husqvarna 335/338 is one exception.

I got the TT-20K - very good and wireless operation - nice hold function on max revs as well and a fast refresh of 0.5 seconds. You can change the battery on this workshop model - around £75 and worth every penny IMO - takes any error out of tuning by ear and makes the tuning of the higher revving saws much easier. Got the UK reps details if you are ever interested - no commercial link or otherwise between me and them:thumbup:

Personally I set saws with new pistons to 1k rpm below max revs and saws that are run in to 500rpm below max revs. You should also be able to hear the difference in engine note at flat out after it is done and listen out for the fourstroking sound at wide open throttle. My own regime is the set the carb to factory, fire the saw up, screw the L screw in until the revs rise to a fast idle and then start to drop (turn the scew slowly) then undo the screw until the revs rise and start to fall, there is a point when the revs just start to pop/hunt a little - this is where I usually leave off - also blip the throttle to make sure th esaw picks up cleanly, if it boggs then undo the L screw a little more. Let the saw warm up and do a few 1 second flet out runs and note where the revs are and undo the H screw to knock the revs down or clockwise to get them higher. The carb acts as a fuel based rev limiter and this is how it is set. Some modern saws have rev limiters built in to the ignition coil, if you find the tach flashing out random numbers when close to the saws maximum revs then it has a limiter, back off the H screw to bring the revs down until the tach has stabilised and then tweak the carb up to around 500rpm below max - the ignition and tach should alow this. It takes a while to do this well and I still fire the saw up cold once it is done to make surte the idle is OK - practice makes perfect - if there is such a thing! Let me know if you need max rev details of any saws

Eds 023 isn't ported, I put a new piston in it - Meteor of course and tuned the carb up, I think he uses it as a chipper saw as it is smaller than most of his kit - good to see it working well after doing it months ago. Been doing a bit of work on the bars and chains on the 357XP and 346XP, have opened the 357XP muffler up a bit more as I need to speed it up a fraction more to keep it level with Mattys 560XP. Was dissapointed with the 346XP as it revved well in the cut but wasn't digging in as it should, I have found the bar rails were a little splayed so have closed them up and sharpened up the chain, should work a lot better now. The 181SE was a bit boggy and have just found the breather was blocked, will clean it up and am thinking of lightly porting it before the next GTG - Sawfest 2 ....son of Sawfest:thumbup: I have also dug out an old 298XP that I may run up and the 2094 plus have a few other gems that may make it out of the workshop!

Not a problem from my side, no problem at all:thumbup:

Well I have slept on it now and feel ready to step up to the breech again “What is the point of this except to stir up trouble?” That’s rich coming from you, you seem to spend all your time following me round the forum trying to undermine my advice. Don’t deny it, I may act stupid at times but it doesn’t mean I am. “I have never explicitly claimed to have more experience than you so you must have inferred that from reading my posts. You are the self proclaimed "expert".” No, not explicitly but you have niggled and had a pop at a large percentage of my posts – “Self proclaimed” – I think you are mixing this up with happy customers with fixed machines and thankful owners that have had useful advice…FREE advice from forum & friendship – isn’t that what a Forum is all about???If you look at many of the posts, it is actually others recommending me, NOT the other way round! I gauge success as turning a saw from a non runner in to a runner at a minimal cost to the customer and the customer coming back again 6 months later as they were happy with the job. I have no manufacturer to back me up with a database, parts lists, service manuals etc but have managed to fix everything that has come in even with my meager resources. “Who's hiding?” In the past we have all had the abusive phone conversations and e-mails etc but don’t see too many people queuing up to do it face to face! “With regards to tuning the modded saw, ……..A tach is of little use as factory specs will no longer be applicable.” Nearly correct but …..whatever! BTW - I recognise the line from Arboristsite! Yesterday I was all for throwing in the towel on this site but I think that perhaps this isn’t what others would want and it isn’t what the Forum is about, the dealer kicking the man in the shed out! So – that is it as far as I am concerned, from now on I will ignore your little digs and throw away comments, don’t even bother answering this, I am not interested and have nothing to say to you, I am too busy to bother with you and your rhetoric.

I did worry when you said you were coming over on the scooter - now I know what you meant, fill your boots but take it easy:thumbup1:

Yeh - I love the way these big fellas hide behind their keyboards:sneaky2:

Think we had better mention that the Carb H screw may need an anticlockwise tweak before running, do some deep cuts and look at the colour of the plug - coffee colour is good, white or graphite grey isn't - weak or overheating. You should hear the saw fourstroke at the top end at WOT and then clear in the cut, a tach is a bonus to tuning if you can get hold of one........ but I am sure someone with far more experience will come up and contradict me as has been the case lately:lol:

That is one damp shed:lol: One last picture for today, completely unrelated: -

That would be damn nice - got one myself and thought it was seized when I tried to pull it over and I am a reasonably big fella. I think I have read that you can drill and fit one but don't know for sure, you would need a decent bit of land on the cylinder wall and that may be the main issue - you try it and let me know if it works:thumbup:

Not sure if I would put Baby Bio or Stihl HP in the fuel - would possibly make a nice garden ornament or door stop. What a minger:lol:

Hi Rich Part is available here - Quick Order If you measure the ID, OD and length, you may get one here - Simply Bearings Ltd ~ Oil Seals SKF FAG TIMKEN KOYO NTN NKE TRULOC Needle Rollers Taper Rollers Rod Ends Oilite Bushes Loose Balls O Rings Grease Plain Thrust Good luck, any problems then let me know

Turn up the volume and enjoy:rock: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NCkHOhTCzc]AC/DC Hard As A Rock, live in Munich, Germany 2001 (HQ) - YouTube[/ame]

Stihl 046, bad starter when hot, I can't possibly work out what is wrong with it as I am not smart enough - some of you clever types may be able to help:001_rolleyes:

OK, thanks for clearing this up, the original setting the tech did was correct even though the saw wasn't running right:confused1: But what do I know, sounds like very little compared to most!

The saw had a blue coil, it had the max revs engraved in to the side of it and the tach would not read beyond the set max revs so it is a LIMITED coil. The saw was set lean at the top end when it came in - well in to where the rev limited coil was kicking in, the owner had said it lacked power so I retuned it for him, on a tight timescale and he is happy with it and this was around 6-8 months ago, I really dont understand where this is going???

Thanks Terry - sounds like the 372XP is still doing the business and thanks for the kind comments, it makes a difference:thumbup:

Those inserts look like they will do the job and will be stronger than a typical stainless spring type helicoil, you will need to match the internal thread of the insert with the bar stud - a metric tap set or thread gauge could be used to do this. I think I may have one of those studs and see if I can match the thread with my tap set.

100psi sounds a bit low but compression gauges vary and can depend a bit on the size of the engine. pull the plug and get get a light down the bore to look at the exhaust port bore area if the plughole angles toward it and look for any scores. I know running a bit lean on the L screw can stop the revs falling down to proper idle making them stay a little high for a while - hunting or a varying idle speed sounds a little different. See what the carb is set to but the vast majority of carbs ae set to 1+1 turn L & H screw.

Yup, from our forum comms, Barrie (GardenKit) seems like a nice bloke with a good customer focus and a genuine interest in his business and customers needs. Second Geoffs comments:thumbup: