spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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It may just be a dodgy coil but worth doing the normal checks before trying another coil unless you have two of these saws.
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Glad I could help, just need to get hold of a key and fit it now:thumbup:
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Once thought I would split wood in sandals - the axe glanced off a log and struck between the gap between my big toe an the next one:blushing: Won't do that again - will be using my X27:thumbup:...........and steel toe caps:lol:
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Is it doing it on idle or when running at speed, what you describe sounds like blowback from the crankcase in to the carb caused by the piston on the downward power stroke forceing fuel vapour back in to the carb - only seen this on an 024 that was running a bit rich. If the 341 is high mileage, then it could be worn piston skirts causing the issue - If the inlet ports have been widened, it is possible the piston skirt isn't sealing the port properly - Oops:thumbdown: A couple of other things to check based on the possibillity of getting strange ignition timing - check the flywheel to coil gap - should be a typical business card thickness and also check for any wear or damage on the HT cable and ignition cut out wires - it is possible it is effecting the spark timing. Bit strange that one - I have known it on fourstrokes where the inlet valve seats are shagged but these are two strokes:confused1:
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It is in the length of the handle - the X27 is good for lanky 6' plus guys like me - you get a bit of extra momentum with it.
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I am looking forward to firing this one up when complete, all interesting stuff! Not sure what you mean about Stihl - do they make chainsaws:lol:
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Sounds like a fierce beast of a saw:lol: good for a bit of learning - lets see a vid of both using the same chain and bar - time 2-3 cuts and see what the difference is!
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Looks like that bloke has a big saw like yours:lol:
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As you have seen earlier, Burell has been machining the cylinder and piston of my 357XP. Whilst I had it stripped down, I decided to open up the ports a little more, inlet and exhaust and opened the lower transfer a little. You can also see the previous changes to the upper transfers nearest the inlet port.
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If you get stuck - PM Burrell (Martin) he builds steam trains as a hobby and I have seen his work - excellent doesn't even cover it. He would make a special but buy him some beer if you ask him - he is a generous fella!
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Thats some haul - must have had a big wagon to take the kit away - anything on these traffic cameras that are everywhere, the haul must be worth £50k+ that level of stolen kit can't be easy to shift. Worth sticking a tracker in any pre show kit bought in - easy to say once it has happened! Bad news:thumbdown:
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Sometimes these oil pumps just wear and go beyond their life and stop working - I have had two do this recently and did the same as you. Typically, if you place a tube on the "oil out" or "oil in" connector and blow down it while rotating the oil gear, it should always be difficult to get air past the oiler shaft - if it is pretty free flowing through then the casting has probably worn away and it is time for a new one! The oiler will do very little by turning it over by hand but needs the engine speed to oil properly. We probably all know the "pointing th ebar tip at clean wood and running the saw flat out" oiler check! Typically the tank filter gets blocked, the pinion wears, the pump pipe connectors get plugged or it just claps out:thumbdown:
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Stihl do ovesize ones for their plastic bodied saws but don't know about their alloy ones. Engineering options are making a stud with oversize base and retapping the hole, using a steel insert and locking in place with JB weld or a decent high temp bearing retaining compound or a helicoil. Helicoils need less land around the hole, inserts need more but are stronger.
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Interesting one - only seen two ring 024s, that hedge trimmer looks like a kawasaki engine to me - I can check my non working strimmer if you like - the coil is shagged but the P&C are fine!
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Yes - same method, it sounds like it may be a little loose anyway, if it has the threaded inside (where the recoil catches) you can use the Stihl removal tool other than that, the screwdriver method will probably work - just check there is a bit of endfloat in the crank, tap the screwdriver in behind it and whack the end of the crankshaft with a hard mallet - don't be tempted to use a hammer - it will mushroom the end and cause all sorts of issues. You will need to work the broken key out of the crank and the flywheel - small screwdriver and small hammer will do it, then fit the new one, key in the flywheel and do it up again.
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Exactly what he said:thumbup: some Stihls have threads on the inside of the flywheel allowing for the Stihl puller tool to be used which works rather well, I sometimes use the screw driver method on flywheels where the crankshaft has a bit of endfloat - MS200Ts pop off nicely like this. Also got a small set of pullers that work well! Normal thread on flywheels - righty tighty........
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Usually I fit new pistons if they have been seized, are damaged or are a very sloppy fit causing low compression and piston slap on the bottom of the stroke. First thing to do is to measure the compression with the saw cold but having run a few hours earlier - 150psi is good. If the compression is at around the 135psi mark then it may need a new one - unfortunately, you will struggle to find a Meteor one for this saw, the choices are Golf (not too bad), Chinese unbranded - take your choice but beware of over tempered rings and OEM - probably around £80! The base gasket on these saws was 0.7mm and fitting a thinner one is a possible way of beefing up the power!
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Thanks Martin, nice job - will be very interesting to see how it goes when back together - thanks again:thumbup:
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Well spotted, I wanted to rebuild it, the rubber boot was shot so tested it liek this as I didn't have a spare yet. Just picked up a new one so a little grease around it and the job will be a good one. I would normally test as you have suggested - glad someone is keeping a close eye on the thread:thumbup:
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Gozo is an island to the north of Malta and is good for diving persuits - been there as well:thumbup: Victoria is bang in the middle of it!
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Sounds like a deal, let us know how it goes, use the Stihl double ended piston stop (not the metal one) or rope to take the nut off and do it up. Nice cheap repair:thumbup:
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Oh dear Looks like I know what I am talking about, one day I will get some beer out of you guys:lol: Excluding Burrell - he is doing some machining for me - cheers Martin:thumbup:
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They are an hour ahead - still looks OK to me, does anyone actually know of a scammer paying in full and reimbursing Paypal fees??? For the record, you can stop international buyers when you set up your listing:blushing:
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I'm wondering if he used the flywheel nut to lock the crank to get the clutch off and did the key in. My picture comes from an 028 that wouldn't start but would back fire very loudly, after pulling it over a few times and scaring me, I got to the route cause and fixed it!
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In life, you get what you pay for, I got the brass bodied Sealey one and it is fantastic - has saved me hours of my time and found many faults in engines long before I would have without it - you wil need to give some thought about connecting it to an engine - you will see how I have done it in my images. £35 is a damn sight cheaper then the similar Stihl unit:thumbup: The other side is the pressure check as the crankcase on a two stroke has positive and negative pressure and ceratin components show greater leakage under pressure or vacuum. Had one seal that was fine under pressure but leaked under vacuum. This vacuum gauge is an easier option of the two though!
