spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Looks like a decent size job, at least the weather has been kind even though you lost your saw again:001_rolleyes:
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If you take the bar off and put a flat edge/rule against it, you will see if it is bent - unlikely unless it has been severely pinched in a felling cut or you have been using the bar as a lever etc.
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Looks like you ol boys have been busy, think the Wolfman is in love, sure sounds sweet and keeps the revs up nice in the cut:thumbup:
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There is a real debate over greasing or not greasing the bar - my preference is to keep the nose sprocket clean and run the oiler on full which then oils the sprocket - I have had jammed up nose sprockets, usually on oak and with the nose buried in the cut. Not sure if your saw has an adjustable oiler, if it does then turn it up full, you should get through most of the tank of oil for every full full tank of oil. Every now and then, point the bar at clean wood and rev it flat out - you should see a quick line of oil kicked off the end of the bar. If you remove the bar at any time and wipe it down, make sure the rails are cleaned and the bar oiler holes are clear of sawdust.
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I'm thinking altitude - often found with climbers on tall trees, I now tach all MS200Ts at the top of the tallest tree I can find:lol:
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You bad man:lol: We could swap the hat for the pile of sawdust:lol:
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Been stripping a 020T, it had 140psi compression but on stripping it looks like it has been mildly seized, I now have a piston on order. The pic of the tools is for Burrell and are my usual suspects. The pile of sawdust is the amount of crap that came out of the 020T, I havent even stripped the chainbrake yet!
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Nah Barrie, get the butter and jam on that Aussie hat of yours:lol: In answer to the breather, stick the end that is connected to the tank in your gob and suck, you should be able to get some air through it, when you blow down it, if the valve is one way, you will get no air through it. If you can't be arsed then just get a new one and let us know that it has cured the problem so we can ask Barrie - Gardenkit to list pics of him munching that hat:blushing: I hope this sorts it, it sounds pretty conclusive to me, not a common fault but have had similar on a few saws usually causing poor running in a short period of time! Good luck, hope you get it sorted.
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Its OK Jon - eesss fixed it all by himself - hope that fiddly bit that pushes through the HT lead is pushed home and the lead isnt just pushed in to the cap:blushing:
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Would have been nice with a bit of vegemite:thumbup: Still got crossed fingers on the breather being the problem:lol:
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Know what you mean about twitchy neighbours - my saws ara a little hot though and testig out a fully ported and muffler modded 064 probably didn't help - it was a little loud:lol: Yes it helps alot, it tells me that the saw isn't a bad un off ebay that has been messed with. The lack of top end can be just down to not enough fuel and turning the H screw out by 1/2 a turn may sort it - stndard H setting without limit caps is 1 1/2 turn out from fully in. If the H screw hasnt been set to this it is worth investigating but if the saw has gone from working fine to giving problems and the H screw hasn't been adjusted then it probably isn't the issue. Try the test on the breather and lets hear how you get on.
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Seeing your video, it is possible the removal of the fuel cap and replacement is pressurising the fuel tank and forcing more fuel in to the carb making the saw work correctly and then it dies once the pressure isn't there to force the fuel past the blockage. Try one last test, remove that breather tube where it meets the fuel tank and run the saw up, if it bogs then investigate the carb - probably crap in the gauze filter. If the saw runs well then it is the breather. On the history of the saw, has it run fine in the past, has the saw ever run OK in your ownership? Just seeing if the saw has gone from working to not working in your ownership.
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Thats a shame, I had hoped Barrie had one of those leather stetsons and the thought of him chewing on it would have made me smile:thumbup: Your breather is marked as below, you need to take it off and suck on it:blushing: and see if you can draw air through it, if you can then it is OK. Going back to you loosening the fuel cap and the saw working, if the saw was on its side, it could be the turning of the saw loosened up the muck that is in the carb gauze filter or it is possible your pumping membrane in the carb is perforated - I have seen the pumping flaps having holes worn in them. I would check the breather and then do the same test with loosening the fuel cap and see if it works again because if it does, it will lead to the answer!
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The 12" bit sounds fine, a 1.3mm gauge would be best, the pitch would be whatever the sprocket is but would expect 0.325". Have a word with Rob D on this site, he will give you a good deal and advice for that matter!
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I can only speak from my own experience where the saw would rev out for the first three or so blips and would then get progressively worse and cutting would kill it on power, so you are sort of right and never rule out the tank breather - most are well hidden and get filled with oil/fuel and dust! I also had a Sachs Dolmar 100 that just wouldn't start at all until the fuel cap was loosened - that used a coarse self tapper as a breather so I ground a flat on it and that sorted it! Anyway - problem well on the way to be sorted:thumbup: All good:biggrin:
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First of all - sorry Morten, I just say as I find and have had similar problems to this and it was a blocked breather - don't mean to be a smart arse - I have just seen a lot - manly hug:thumbup1: Glad the issue is found, the breather is a push in tube with one of those small grubscrews in it, I usually screw out the grubscrew - sometimes a couple are fitted, clean the tube and the grubscrew and then push it in to place rather than screwing it and then suck on the thing to make sure air will pass through it - if all is good then refit and try. What caps are you talking about, the breather is a tube sticking out of the top of the fuel tank just above the filler cap - you will need to remove the air filter cover to see it! Nice bit of fault finding and a simple way of determining tank breather issues - my nemesis was a Jonsered 630 - got it sorted in the end!
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You should try one of my ported ones for a week, they will welcome your unmodded saws back with open arms then:thumbup:
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I've had a couple of saws with blocked tank breathers stop the saw revving from the outset, one stopped the saw even starting! Impulse line - a small rubber pipe or internal to the manifold and carb that uses the positive and negative pressure of the crankcase to power a pump within the carb body. Stihl Part 1123 141 8600 The gauze filter is to be found under the carb cover held on with one large screw - opposite end of the diaphragm side - it is to be found under the pumping membrane and is around 8mm in diameter.
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I know a panel beater:thumbup:
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Typical problems are Carb internal gauze filter clogged, bad fuel line, dirty fuel filter, blocked fuel tank breather, too rich on the H screw, very low compression, carbon clogged exhaust port, air leak in the inlet manifold/crank seals/impulse line!
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Mmmm don't I just:001_rolleyes:
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Possibly an air leak - the impulse line where it goes in to the crankcase is a weak point and the carb inlet boot/manifold can split - crank seals are generally strong but can go hard on old machines. Other than that, the carb gauze filter can fill with crud and worth checking.
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There has to be a reason why the screws don't undo, I would pull the carb off and give it a good look at - a pic would be good!
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150psi is good but you can find it drops off fast when the saw warms up depending on clearences and wear - just had this also on an MS200 - 150psi warm and rapidly dropped to sub 130 when warm giving starting and ideling issues. Also the type of compression gauge can give different readings. I believe the OEM piston is circa £65 and the Meteor £25 - Tesgol/Sawbits does them on ebay and his site - good choice on a decent saw just make sure the bore is clear of any transfered aluminium otherwise the ring will sustain damage. You should get 150psi hot and less drop when warm - noticeable on pulling the starter recoil! Make sure you pressure/vac test it on reassembly - sounds like the saw has run lean at some stage for one reason or another. The H screw limiter can be lifted to the top of the H screw to allow adjustment.
