spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Cheers Rich, I think we have solved many members saw problems and that is what the site is about, always glad to help and any waifs and strays end up on the bench and sorted. Good mix on the site now and makes it a good place to discuss issues and get good advice and that includes your input of course:thumbup:
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Got the Husky 395 back together, new muffler - opened up the outlet a little:blushing: Got a 064 in with an intermittent oiler, pulled the clutch off and after close inspection of the pinion, noted that some of the worm drive is worn as pointed to by the pink arrows and the yellow lines show how much the middle part of the drive has worn. The saw looks very low hours but will also check the oiler and feed pipe/filter isn't blocked while I am at it as well as making sure the oiler gear and shaft are free.
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Thats good - quite a light saw and good for lighter cutting - bit of a pig to work on though!
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I reckon if you upped he voltage, stuck a couple of big capacitors on it and messed with the charging circuit, we could get it going faster:thumbup:
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I have an idea, burn the wood and fast - looks like wood worm but I am no expert! I would only bring in a nights burning a day and that way it will lower the chance of this little fella finding your joists and invading them with his mates:thumbdown:
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Thats good news Mike, welcome to Arbtalk...for those that don't know, Tesgol does the Meteor pistons on ebay for some of the saws. You may get this thread pulled by the moderators though:blushing: there are sponsered suppliers on here!! Don't take it personally:lol:
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Mmm, we won't mention that:thumbdown: Piston is on its way, the dremmel is primed and ready to open up the ports:thumbup:
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The saw runs- thats a bonus and £100 is a fair - good price from your description. Typically make sure the sprocket is in good order, the chain catcher is present and the chain brake works. Check the oiler works by revving it up and pointing the bar at fresh cut wood, concrete floor etc to make sure you get a mist of oil off the bar. Sounds OK to me
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As Rich says - could just be a slow idle needing a tweak upwards - it should idle without the chain spinning or creeping forward and without stalling.
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Why have all my off buttons stopped working....
spudulike replied to Marsh Monkey's topic in Chainsaws
The MS200T will have had the black wire that connects to the handle just above the front of the AV rubber come off its connector - easily done if some reed has pushed against it. Probably best to undo the front AV mount so you can get a bit of a look under the thing and re-connect the spade connector on the black wire on to the connector on the handle. It is a bit fiddly, tweezers or long nose pliers makes it easier. The other saw - just check the switch is clean as others have said - it is possible the wire has become broken or dislodged - just follow it through from the switch to the coil and check the connection on the coil. -
This can't be true - the German engineers never get it wrong:001_rolleyes:
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Always a pleasure Barrie, you are most welcome - when the thread deviates away from saws, your input is appreciated by all:thumbup:
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There should be a rubber pipe with a filter on the end that pushes in to the outside of the tank just under the oil pump and the oil pump when in place, seals against it. Firstly I would fit the missing parts and a very simple check on a worn pump is to put a piece of pipe on either the pump oil inlet or outlet and blow down it whilst rotating the pump shaft, if air can be blowed pretty freely through the pump in any position, it is fooked and needs replacing. The alloy does wear where the oiler rotates in it, too large a clearance and it stops working well - trust me!! Had one like that on an MS200 - just like yours:001_rolleyes:
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Can't believe that this thread has had nearly 60,000 views in just over a year - thanks for the continued support and interest in what us techs are up to in our sheds and thanks for the input form other techs:thumbup: Gotta say I found the chainsaw section a little tame when I first joined but believe it has changed for the better and follows the forum ethic of helping out fellow members. This thread has done this on many an occasion and has also led me to meet a good number of decent guys as well! Cheers All
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Hi Shaun, I have pretty much sold the 346XP...sorry, Porting the 338 - done one but not really conclusive on how much better it is - you are probably better off just opening up the exhaust a bit - a really easy job. The engine is a clam type so squish can't be adjusted, the inlet port is shrouded by an inlet tube - the exhaust port can be widened a bit but wasn't over happy witht he one I did, seemed to go OK but couldnt stop it four stroking very heavily! Steve
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I have tried but th epiggin tappets keep going out of adjustment - going to try fitting new adjuster nuts next time - never seen anything like it and I was brought up on Honda fourstroke bikes! Grrrrrrrrrrr - Go Go Husky
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:001_rolleyes:I'm glad you saw me fix it and know it was sweet when it left me - let me know and I will get those nuts in and hopefully get the thing sorted once and for all - flippin thing!
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Correct but have seen some Chinese pistons been stamped incorrectly so make sure the old piston and new one match - you have been warned! Just had the side cover off the 395XP - bit of a mess, looks like the internal flywheel cover has had something shatter it, breaking it through and that in turn has taken a few lumps out of the flywheel fins. Tried to repair it but on talking to the owner have decided to replace it - the flywheel shifts lots of air and if it goes, it may take out the outer cover!
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Got a pair of 395Xps in and an 064 - one 395 seized, one with loose exhaust bolts and the 064 oiler is a bity hit and miss! The 395XP with the loose exhaust bolts has mashed up the location mounts either side of the exhaust, I have brazed on small oversize squares of steel on to the back of the bolts and ground to sizeso they are a tight fit - easy solution and will afford a cost effective and reliable fix. The exhaust is fooked so have ordered an aftermarket one at 1/4 the price of OEM - looks to be dual ported - nice:thumbup:
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Here is mine on a 15" [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12FcOEkzuvI&feature=player_detailpage]husq 357 part 2 - YouTube[/ame]
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Just remove the handle side cover carefully and take some decent images and quickly - It is a bit fiddly but TBH, have the things licked now - simple job IMO:thumbup1:
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Poll: Who re-tunes their new saw after break-in?
spudulike replied to TimberCutterDartmoor's topic in Chainsaws
The factory settings are a starting point and good base settings but once the saw has seen some life it is quite normal for saws to need a bit of a tweak to get them to run to their full potential. When saws are ported or have their mufflers modded, many think the saw will need to be richened but normally they need leaning up as the extra flow through the saw actually increases the pull through the carb and pulls more fuel through the jets - 3/4 turn on the H screw is quite common on my ported saws set by tuning the H screw, listening for four stroking and also looking at the plug colour. -
To me it sounds like the throttle valve isn't being held open by the idle screw but is catching on something or the throttle rod is sticking on something. One thing to do is to run the saw up with the top cover off and with the chain spinning on idle - find the throttle arm on the carb and manually put pressure on it to close it - it should make NO difference but if it does, the throttle valve isn't closing properly and only does so once you have opened and closed the throttle. If the saw dies if left standing, it may be the idle speed is just too low but the throttle valve slightly sticking is holding it open some of the time and when it closes fully, it stalls the engine
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Poll: Who re-tunes their new saw after break-in?
spudulike replied to TimberCutterDartmoor's topic in Chainsaws
I have never owned a new saw but have noted that there is a distinct change in a saw after it has had a few tanks through it after having new pistons fitted. Compression rises, the idle changes and the top end revs change. Manufacturers will tune the top end to be a bit rich as I do when fitting a new piston but a retune after 20 tanks should really be done to ensure correct running. -
And it sounds like some of the 066s had their chain brake handles made of black cheese:blushing::lol: Sounds like a manufacturing issue if it has done it from new - take it back and get it repaired!
