spudulike

Well the part number is - 503 71 97-01 if that helps!

Thought I was going to have to pull the chain off the 009 Stihl for one minute, lucky I have one to hand! Just pulled the exhaust off the MS200T called "Ben", Bad news, the piston is heavily scored despite the saw pulling over 150psi, lucky I pulled in a couple of pistons prior to this lot coming in, reckoned on one or two being fooked.....thats life. Need to clean the bore and get it fitted - will fit one of my super thin gaskets - that will get the saw going a bit:thumbup:

Started work on the raft of MS200Ts that landed yesterday, the one called Carl needed a carb clean which I did in the ultrasonic bath, did a couple of other checks, refitted and it dialed right in - nice:thumbup: The one called Joe was less than perfect, the exhaust was loose in the saw and the bolt had broken off. Tried drilling and an easy out but it was tight....very tight and feared the easy out would snap - being hardened, I wouldn't be able to tap it out so just drilled it out and re-tapped the hole, not pretty but a solid repair. The carb was pretty shot despite a thorough clean, I couldn't get the thing ideling so sorted out the accelerator pump and the saw now idles and revs out fine - just needs a tach. The side cover also needed a bit of patching. Now working on "Ben" - looks in better shape than Joe:001_rolleyes::lol: Oh - had to break off halfway through fixing "Joe", had a cry of help from Matty F working in a garden behind mine - had a chain snap and needed a new one - got one sorted and got back to work.

If the rocks are in the road unmarked and not lit at night, then I reckon the owner is breaking the law....working on the same principle as skip hire rules! Take lots of images of the rocks, their position if on the road and the distance away from the edge of the road etc and also the damage to your car. I am guessing the council/police should be informed etc - not sure if it will be a case of suing the guy or the council but there shouldnt be rocks left on the highway. If anyone asks - you rarely use the road and didn't know they were there - local old lady hit a masssive pot hole just out of the village and was told to go forth by the council as she uses the road regularly as if thats an excuse! Good luck Jon - hope it works out!

By open ported I guess you mean the transfer ports and not the side skirt window ports in some pistons. yes, you can portopen transfer port engines - you can open up the inlet and exhaust ports, not a lot to be done with the transfers. I avoid clam shell engines as they are a PITA to take apart and squish is neigh on impossible to change! Measured the 357XP the other day and it is running at around 14,900rpm and the spark plug is a nice tan colour!

None at all, there are limiting factors on all saws including transfer design, piston type and where the ring ends are on the piston. One of the great things about the 346 and 357 is the fact the piston has a complete solid skirt so the inlet and outlet ports can be opened up nice and wide and probably gives the largest difference plus the standard squish is around 1mm so can be lowered by 0.5mm giving another 15psi and more torque very quickly. Other saws give very little - the MS200T inlet width can hardly be changed - if you do, you are highly likely to snag the ring ends! It is all a compromise, you chip away at the bits that you can do and work within the constraints of the cylinder design! Oh - we talk about Husky because I wanted to take one of the fastest machines in its class and make it faster - the 346XP - I then followed it up with a right off 357XP I had kicking around - now feels like new and is a little lively!

Not a bad call if you want a Stihl, parts are plentiful and they are good on a 13-14" bar - costs are not too prohibitive either.

I am sure a man of your tallents can fix it - just don't bring it round for a week or two!

Not at the moment Martin, I am a little snowed under at the mo:lol:

Whats on my bench - well it's Carl, Joe and Ben, worries me when blokes name their saws:blushing: Think they should be Tom, Dick and Harry:001_huh: Also got another two plus another one on its way.....oh, plus a hedge trimmer:lol: First up is Carl with a wee carb problem!

You need to check that both machines share the same crankcases and crank - Stihl have probably used the same cases but different crank but would need to check the IPLs - On the wrong computer at the mo!

In the original Mad Max film, the sign on the shed said "Speed is a question of money, how fast do you want to go":thumbup: So - the type of saw you end up with is up to your budget, how much wonga have you? An 026 is £125 - £175 territory, MS260 are £200 - £300, all desiable pro saws demand big money, have you thought about Husqvarna - 346XP is one damn fine saw and faster than the 026!

The piston pump isn't the only problem with the Zama carb, I have come across at least two other issues that are part of a regiem I use to get rid of the poor idle problem! I have a MS200 with a moded carb coming back shortly, it was done before I got to grips with the other issues but will sort it out once back and adjust the costs accordingly- I am like that:thumbup: I give a lot of assistance on this site but long standing members with a good level of participation get the best advice and help......if you know what I mean:sneaky2:

Wonder how many of you guys have the side cover off once a week and clean the crud out of the chain brake:001_rolleyes: Seen plenty of horror stories in my time:lol: Is the thing wearing through or just plain snapping?

Right.....in for a penny, in for a........ The carb low setting is primarily for idle and low to mid range running - a saw will generally idle and rev up a little even with the H screw totally in. Generally you take the L screw in until the engine revs up and starts to die and then undo it around 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. This will allow enough fuel/air in for the engine to idle and to pick up to mid revs well. Failure to get this right will not seize an engine - it will either idle badly, not pick up or smoke like a tart on a street corner:thumbup: The H screw - different can of worms - it is there to give the engine the correct level of fuel/air at mid - maximum revs. It also is used as a kind of fuel based rev limiter! Remember that as it is important. You want the saw to peak at maximum manufactures revs, this is achieved by adjusting the saw carb H screw so it goes from firing on every stroke (Two stroking) to firing on every other stroke (Four stroking) at wide open throttle and at manufactures recommended revs - a tacho is a damn useful bit of kit on the smaller higher revving saws. The way this is achieved is the carb throws in so much fuel that it starts to flood the spark every other stroke and stop the machine over revving, when you lean down the mixture, the saw fires every stroke and will also have less fuel/oil to lubricate it. In bad cases where the H screw is very lean, the piston will melt on to the cylinder causing lean seize through too little fuel oil being present in the engine and the extra friction between the cylinder and piston. So - the H screws prime function is to control the fuel at high revs but also has a secondary function of stopping the engine over-revving. Limited coils are also fitted now but that DOES NOT stop an engine running lean - it is just another safeguard and works in conjunction with the carb! Hope this makes sense!

Yup, last suggestion was to set it on fire and claim on the insurance:lol:

Mmmm valve clearences, Wolfmans face was a picture when I gave them a quick fettle and the pole cutter just sat there good as gold, purring like a kitten and revving out nicely:lol: Thing was being a bitch - hence the comment about new tappet nuts - reckon they are shaking loose!

Is that two tappet nuts needed for the KM100:001_rolleyes: Bloody thing:thumbdown:

And I bet you have a place for it on that bench of yours - just don't mix it up with your sprocket grease:lol:

Bloody hell Barrie, wish my workshop was that clean and well laid out - mine works on the volcano principle - the item you want is at the top of the pile:lol: The 026 - it is usually a case of undoing the screw at the back of the handle and then easing up the black cover very slowly so the bits don't fly out. To get it back together, you need to put the throttle rod back in to the carb throttle linkage and then push the thing back in to the hole in the throttle lever and put the throttle lock back in carefully, slide the top cover back in to the location catches just below where the air filter sits and bring it down on to the throttle lock that you have been holding in place and let it click upwards in to the hole in the black handle and bring the cover down and get that screw in quickly:lol: It isn't that difficult IMO but I have done a few:thumbup:

Been out in the woods with Matty and the ported 395XP, all went well, cut some pretty big lumps of beech and a bit of Elm. The saw ran up fine, the chain was a bit past it though! The saw will get faster once the piston is bedded in and reckon the muffler could be improved as it still has the baffle plate in it - may suggest fitting an aftermarket one and making it REALLY loud for days out:thumbup: Vids below [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajbGWXOTPNc]Ported Husqvarna 395XP - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2SN_vLjSf0]Ported Husqvarna 395XP - 2 - YouTube[/ame]

Not sure I totally agree as the key ensures the ignition timing is correct so the flywheel has to be in a pretty much exact position:confused1: