spudulike

Had a small Sawfest round at Burrells yard on Saturday and created a large amount of sawdust - the ported 372XP is below - it now pulls 14,200rpm:blushing: Oh - thats Burrell using it modeling the green Arbtalk T shirt:lol: [ame] [/ame]

Was that the 066 or the 011:blushing:

Is there a time scale on the death as, correct me if I am wrong, all my family will die at some stage of their life - tis only death and taxes that are guaranteed in life:lol: I season everything for 2-3 years and burn anything I can lay my hands on. If the wood is very hard, I chuck some soft wood on the fire to get it going well and produce good embers. Old kitchen units are best for heat - damn hot, probably all the resins burning off!

And he would - good bloke he is:thumbup: As is Rob Infinitree- good delivery bloke!!!

Depends if you want OEM or aftermarket, the only aftermarket ones worth having are "Caber" ones and if you want OEM, Greenstripe or some of the site sponsors will do them.

Listen for escaping air, if that doesn't do it, take the recoil, flywheel an impellor off and put a strong washing fluid and water mix around the seals and see if they bubble when air is pumped in to the engine.

On doing this test, you are checking the abillity of the carb needle valve to hold back fuel under pressure with no leakage and the abillity for the needle to reseat after opening. Failure in this area can cause fuel to leak through to the crankcase if the tank is under pressure - for instance if the saw is left in the sun, it can cause the saw not to run if the leak is bad or to run rich and badly. Just depends on how bad the carb is

Been getting a Husky 345 ready for sale, needed a damn good clean, compression is good but have found a few issues on the sprocket and oiler worm drive - been fitted with a rim drive sprocket that isn't standard and it has damaged the worm drive. Now need to get a sprocket and worm drive:001_rolleyes: Always rated these saws as they are light and have plenty of go in them!

Been finishing off the Stihl 036, pressure and Vac tested the saw, passed both, put the carb and muffler back on and fired up fine, just got to tach it now.

Nice post Barrie, got a tester on its way, always been aware of the pop off test and the logic but only pressure tested to ensure a good seal and not tested the pop off point - like to invest in new tools now and then:thumbup:

The thing could do with a re-tune, the top end is very four strokey,for £40 - you get what you pay for, if it lasts a few months, you have a bargain, if it dies in two days, you don't! I have used one and his comments are a bit off the mark......actually they are laughable:001_rolleyes:

Stihl MS 070 chainsaw chain saw 105cc MS070 large gasoline power chain saw HOT-in Chainsaw from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com

East Germany went through reunification in 1990, the older Stihl products had "Made in West Germany" on them meaning older than 1990! I saw this bit of kit and came to the conclusion it was an import from South America where I believe these saws are still manufactured - I cant believe it has lain unused since the 1970s - the saw came in 1968, no date on the EOL date. Conclusion - grey import IMO!

Right back to chainsaws:thumbup: got a Stihl 036 in, dirty but in good condition, I can still see honing marks on the bore. Symptoms are intermittent severe over revving. I have seen similar on a MS440 I had in recently, to be due to the owners, in both cases they recognised the danger signs and sent their saws in suspecting possible air leaks. With this one I pulled the carb apart and noticed the welch plug sealent had broken up and was floating round the diaphragm cavity blocking the main jet now and then causing lean mix at high revs! I will still do the pressure/vac check and tach when finished - thorough to the end:thumbup:

Just been thinking of what I would do to a saw if it had these symptoms. The poor idle - I would wind the idle in until it would either fast idle or not even run with the screw turned fully in. If it won't idle with the idle screw turned fully in, I would see what effect adjusting the "L" screw has, typically on half a turn out, the engine will race as the mixture will be a bit lean! Sometimes the L screw needs to come out more than one turn, have you tried 1 1/2 turn, 2 turns, 2 1/2 turns? The poor starting and weak idle could be an over weak low speed mix! Have you checked the spark when the engine wont start, can you try this with a mild speed start to see if the spark is a bit iffy at low crank speed? Other than that, it sounds much like lack of compression but know you have tried this with a gauge - if all else fails, drop out the base gasket and seal with a little liquid gasket and see if that gets the motor working, if it does, it looks like the piston is just worn out. Have you checked the ends of the top ring and compared their depth to the depth half way round - they can be thin on high hour engines. I had an old hedge trimmer with the same fault so did this quick fix as it was just for my use and gets 1-2 hours use a year! The last thing to check is for carbon in the exhaust port and also for the exhaust being blocked with carbon and crap - this can cause lots of oily deposits around the exhaust - has it got a spark arrestor that has got blocked? Thats about it - hope you rebuilt the carb with the pump membrane gasket closest to the carb body and the spacer between the carb and the diaphragm. Oh - also check the fuel line and filter are in good nick Carbs can be un-fixable, I had an 020 carb recently, just wouldn't idle consistantly so must have had a low speed issue but nothing fixed it - can you try a known good carb? If it happens again, try running it with the fuel cap off - I know the vent has been changed but worth a punt!

Few things to check with starting issues: - 1) make sure that the choke flap is fully sealing the Carb throat in cold starting position. 2) When you start the saw hot with the fast idle on, does the saw rev up to a decent fast idle speed or is it just a little faster than normal idle - if it is low then it could be a cold starting issue. 3) worth getting a decent tech to set the L screw correctly as this can cause issues on cold starting if lean. 4) if it has a decomp valve then try starting it with out using it 5) Make sure the spark plug is gapped correctly, is clean and check the coil to flywheel gap is correct - putting the plug in to the cap, holding it to the cylinder away from the plug hole and pulling the saw over at a less then starting speed should ensure a good spark is produced. Let us know how you get on!

Barries fabricated tool will fit any Husky with the chainbrake integrated in to the cover with the star type latch on it so 340, 345, 345, 351, 353, 357, 359, 372 ............etc

If I can pull Martin out of the conifers he is felling:lol: Will Youtube them once done:thumbup:

OK, then the compression should be OK, probably the carb - back to the gauze filter, if it isn't that, put a ultrasonic cleaner on the Christmas list:lol: Rich - you try doing that on an older exhaust gasket - "easily" isn't what I would call it:001_rolleyes:

The 020T I have jst done was a bit like that - had a seized piston:thumbdown: You need a compression gauge - also worth checking the gauze filter in the carb pumping section but is sounding like it has been seized - you can pull the muffler out without taking the tank off but getting the thing back with the gasket in place is a bugger of a job! You will then be able to see the piston through the exhaust port and inspect for damage.

Been finishing off the ported 372XP today, I fitted a new carb kit and fuel line as it will be run on Aspen, pressure/vac tested it which it passed, fitted the unlimited coil only to find the HT lead was too short - it came off a 357XP so took off the lead and fitted a longer one - fired it up and on the original carb setting, it was heavily fourstroking, always a good sign! Tached it up and it was fourstroking up to over 14,300rpm - standard is 13,500 maximum so the saw should go pretty well now and picks up pretty well. The muffler mod looks kinda mean:thumbup:

I thought that 357XP needed leaning out a little at the top end:lol: No - enjoyed toinights program - even the wife showed interest having been down to Kent earlier in the year and getting excited by the amount of woodland and coppicing going on

I hope that clutch hasn't been off, I have had them dissapear down my drive before when they have shot off - bad man, be warned:lol: Turn out both H&L screws out 1 turn, perhaps a little more on the L screw, adjust the idle and if even screwing it all the way in doesn't do it, you have carb issues. This may just be a clean up or a faulty accelerator pump - who knows with those Zama carbs:thumbdown: