spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Mmm, had an MS390 come in totally in bits, rebuilt it but had a black plastic disk left over, tried the parts list.....couldn't find it on the list. Contacted the owner and he was looking fo the part as well.....came off his Toyota Landcruiser:001_rolleyes: I can laugh now:lol:
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Yeah, "looking for tools", first place I check is my hands, then my pockets and then the bin:001_rolleyes: I can only aspire to a workshop like that:thumbup:
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Barrie - your workshop is too clean, you must be a crap engineer:lol: Mine is like a chainsaw factory that has been hit by a Tsunami followed by a tornado.....and that is on a good day!
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Nice:lol:
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Blast it! Just drove into flood and damaged engine???
spudulike replied to TimberCutterDartmoor's topic in General chat
I would hope it is just a bit of moisture in the electrics and will clear once dry - have had this when steam cleaning engines in the past! Don't reckon enough water would have been ingested to damage the rods but time will tell. Other than that - Rich just got his terms wrong, doesn't mean he doesn't know about engines or has an opinion that isn't worth much- I have looked round the workshop for a screwdriver I had in my pocket - does that make me an old prat, a bad engineer or silly old sod - think we all have our lapses and a light piss taking is expected - lets move on! -
Some saws need a damn strong pull to get a spark, the 066 is one of them! Try closing the gap between the coil and the flywheel to one thickness of A4 paper - pretty tight but may get the thing working again! If you have disconnected the kill wire off the coil then it is most likely the coil to flywheel gap, the speed you are cranking at or the flywheel magnets! The key in engineering terms is a woodruff key or flywheel key in engine terms:thumbup: A chuck key is something found embedded in the ceiliing above the lathes at school:001_rolleyes:
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Think we always have:thumbup:
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I will just reform one - did three Holy Grails last week and a Turin Shroud:lol:
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Looks like you aint done your due diligence on this one:001_rolleyes: Thought everyone knew that the 088 pot is like the Holy Grail:lol: Is the cylinder really shot - I would clean it and fit a new OEM piston or aftermarket if you want to take the risk of the aftermarket kit. If the cylinder is really shot - post a decent photo for us to see, then you haven't got too many options! Sorry
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The Stihl 021/MS211 has been manufactured for years, there has to be a reason why the bar nut is coming loose, typically you will tighten the nut with the bar forced upward by pulling th etop of th echain or chocking the end of the bar up with a block of wood and with the chain tensioned. Tightening should be done with a socket and tommy bar or a Scwrench and be done up pretty tight - the bar nut should in no circumstances come loose - if in doubt either get more experienced help or take it back to the shop.
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If the saw has been running fine on the original oil until the exact point that the mix was changed then you have a few choices - Aspen is the one I am sure Gardenkit was trying to get out but held himself back:lol: You could go back to the original mix and would say try that for a day or two just to see if the saw falls back in to reliable running on the original mix. If it works fine on the original oil then the saw may need a tweak to get it right on the new oil but it shouldn't mess up the running to that level. As for four stroke Stihl hedge trimmers - they have a poor rep and most of the problems are down to the valve clearences going out and causing the idle and high speed running to play up. If the red mix is used correctly and the tool is kept tuned correctly then it shouldn't coke up that badly. Personally........I would stick to the Stihl HP and tell the boss to use two stroke trimmers:thumbup:
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Sounds like a problem with the high speed fuel circuit, have you tried the H screw on around one and a half turns out? Most likely cause is that the Aspen has purged out a bit of crap in the fuel system. Things to check would be the gauze filter under the single screw carb cover followed by the metering arm height - should be level with the carb bodymGood luck Jon!
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Also make sure the muffler opening hasn't been crushed/squashed shut - if so, open it with a large screwdriver:thumbup:
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Sounds like the carb may have some gloopy fuel or muck floating around in it, it may clear out if run for a while otherwise giving the thing an ultrasonic clean or going over with carb cleaner should see it sorted. worth checking the gauze filter under the pumping memebrane as this can cause issues.
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The 254 is a good saw and have got to say that the listing has been done well, he lists the P&C as being Italian, this means it is a Meteor one and therefore of decent quality and sounds like the rest of the parts are OEM. From the listing, I would be reasonably confident the guy knows what he is talking about and would hope the saw is pretty damn good and the price reflects the work done. You could pick up a 346Xp for the same money that will cut faster and be a bit more lively.......
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It's aftermarket, just asked the relevant questions:thumbdown:
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MS200Ts are like gold dust in whatever state they are in, I have seen a bucket of bits make £140 - mad! You can keep it as spares but it may be a better idea to sell it as it is and then purchase the spares you actually need with the money as you may well be left with a saw stripped bare of all the common faulty parts and useless. The failure sounds a bit strange, overheating is generally caused by a leaking exhaust or crap between the cylinder cooling fins - have seen both and are relatively easy to fix. Choice is yours but give it a good clean if you sell it on ebay and take some decent pics for the listing!
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Don't reckon the spring could loose that much spring:confused1: Is the end located properly in the lock lever? Has the assembly been lubed? Sounds more like the parts are catching somehow making the lever tight. I would check to see what is tight or catching!
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Taking off the flywheel is usually a case of seeing if you can get a set of pullers underneath the flywheel and using this method but if this isn't an option, drive a large screwdriver down behind the flywheel between the flywheel and the crankcases and then wallop the end of the crank with a hard mallet, sometimes rotating the flywheel and tapping it heavily with a hard mallet will shift it. Don't be too brutal but time and patience should see the thing off. Investing in or making a set of pullers is also an option!
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The 066 is a decent workhorse and worth some ££££, it would be a shame to fit new parts and then have it go again due to a split impulse/inlet boot or dodgy seals - missed due to lack of inspection and measurement. Seen it all before and this sort of repair can be thought as easy but is seldom such once a full inspection is done. Most members I have fixed saws for would have had to spend out £250 -£350 for an OEM kit on its own without fitting but in reality, I salvaged their cylinder and fitted a decent piston for well under this cost - now thats a real win-win:thumbup:
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What is it with MS200Ts - it isnt Alchemy, there are a few issues that come up regularly but once you have done a few................... Sounds like the dealer hasn't done his job properly! £300 - that is over double my usual cost of a FULL in depth refurb excluding parts - and I would take back a saw that wasn't right and fix at my own cost as long as the issue was something I should have fixed first time. It does happen but not often!
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Meteor pistons are made in Italy, have Caber rings and are the best you can get after the OEM original pistons, I have never had issues with them or any problems with their fit or quality.
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Looks not too bad too me - salvageable I reckon!
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You could try simply bearings - Simply Bearings Ltd ~ Oil Seals SKF FAG TIMKEN KOYO NTN NKE TRULOC Needle Rollers Taper Rollers Rod Ends Oilite Bushes Loose Balls O Rings Grease Plain Thrust They are my No1 stopping place for bearings and seals!
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There is scored and scored, look at the whats on my bench thread and see what I have done in the past! I would always take the OEM cylinder in front of a Chinese aftermarket one and once cleaned, use a Meteor piston. Here is a real bad one that had a great slab of aluminium ripped off the piston, it cleaned off and left very little damage - as long as the surface is smooth and the plating is good, it will work well.
