spudulike

Cutting smaller diameter wood at full throttle is best, to do long prolonged cuts in quick succession won't do it much good as will using it on half throttle as saws are designed to run flat out. General rule of thumb is to run at wide open throttle as this will bed the cylinder to the piston and ring faster as surfaces will be very slightly rough after manufacture and then avoid building up too much heat in the machine by revving it flat out in large wood in quick succession.

If it is a Tiny Tach than it is a decent quality US made bit of kit - the best ones have built in aerials and can just be held near the engine to take the reading - mine was £75 and worth every penny - I can tach by ear but some of the real ported screamers are not easy to get right! I use carb cleaner and a US cleanerleaving the carb in white spirit in the cleaner and intermittently blasting the cleaner down the H&L screw holes. The US cleaner is good at deep cleaning carbs rather than relying on a quick blast of cleaner - I have resurrected some pretty dodgy MS200T carbs in the past when the usual and not so usual fixes haven't solved problems. They are not "fix alls" but are useful bits of kit to have and allow you to clean whilst you do something else. I only have a cheapie that can just about take a larger carb - if I purchased again I may take one with a more powerful output but am happy with the way it cleans the parts I put in it - it won't make anything gleam but will soften up and remove any resins or crap in the carb when also used with cleaner. Word of warning, htese machines produce heat and will produce spirit vapour, get it too hot and in may ignight:thumbdown:

Number of issues that can cause bogging of this nature: - Zamma carb issues Blocked gauze filter in carb Piston scored Cracked impulse line Split inlet boot Lean L screw - should be circa 1 turn out H screw turned in too far or too far out if fourstroking and smoking crank seals shot That should keep you busy - if you want a quick fix - test it with a known good carb and if still not OK, pressure and vac test it - that is exactly what I would do:thumbup:

Well it's all good news on the Husky and the Stihl HS86, both pretty much ready, just got to tach them and get them a bit hot! Started on the KM100,hope to get it running but no idea if it will last on past history - bloody thing:001_rolleyes: Holiday - that was fine, had a good break!

Nope - sorry, wish I did:001_rolleyes:

Back from holiday, fixed the fence that had blown down - why can't contractors build the concrete up the post to stop the soil working round th ething, geting wet then rotting the end???? Grrrrrrr Got the 345 back together and now runs nicely, just needs taching. Sharpened and tested the 325 Husky hedge trimmer which started second pull and works well. Got a HS86 trimmer in that won't prime or start, stuck the carb in the US cleaner for 12 hrs and all is well, started very easily and idles, revs just fine. Started work on the KM100 Stihl four stroke pole cutter - bad idle and doesn't rev well, took the valve gear apart to have a look for wear - looks OK but will take a closer look soon - surprised by the nylon cam - would have thought this doesn't help maintaining the valve clearences being more prone to wear than chromed metal.

Would imagine he meant it as constructive comment:blushing: Did anything I mention work?

No idea but the "3" series Husqvarnas have the date of manufacture on the serial number tab that you will find on the clutch cover side under the top handle just above the two bolts that locate it. Personally I would have the 346XP above the 353XP as it is much more lively:thumbup:

May just be Rich's bosses dodgy mix - it can pick up water this time of year taking it from hot to cold conditions - get a bit of that in the carb and it will be a bitch to keep it running!

Fourstrokes - gas flow, larger valves, skim the head, race cam.........Oh what fun we could have - think those tyres could be white walled for that US 1930s look:lol:

Well at least that proves the saw is fine on typical Stihl HP mix, if it fouls up again on the green then personally I would stick to the red but am a bit baffled as to why the green should play up:confused1: Gardenkit - just had an idea, an Arbtalk Grand Prix featuring those shiny JD mowers - look like new! Are they breeding?? Just back from holiday, 345 back together again with a new crank seal/bearing. Pressure and vac tested 100% perfect and drops much faster when the throttle is let off:thumbup: Just sorting the oil pinion and should be a good one!

Has this anything to do with the gadget show 3120XP dragster - looked good when I saw it last and couldn't help but notice a little muffler modding had been done:001_rolleyes:

Yes, sounds fuel related. All 357s will bog a little when stone cold and started, this usually clears within seconds. As Garden kit said, try a tweak of the L screw and see if it ,akes a difference. It may be a bit of crap in the gauze filter, a bit of dirt in the diaphragm chamber or the rubber boots are prone to airleaks - all would cause this sort of issue. Good luck - let us know how you get on.

Just looked, could only find this one from Israel, I have go them from Tesgol and also from Latvia and Greece before, not tried this chap - Meteor Piston kit for HUSQVARNA 50 51 (45mm) - Replaces 503 16 77-01, 503167701 | eBay The pistons are worth waiting for! I have used kits from GHS and Mister solutions, they are OK but still reckon the OEM cylinder, cleaned up with a Meteor piston is the way to go!

Sorry Rich, an air leak can cause the saw to rev high like when the fuel runs out and the only adjustment that will settle it is over richening the " screw but is in no way a fix. Other things worth checking are that the throttle linkage is loose and not catching. It is unlikely the L screw has changed adjustment but it should be one turn out!

Thats what I am worried about:lol:

Are you sure that camera hasn't got one of those Ipad type screen movers that make sure the image is the right way up despite which direction the camera is held up? Or is it an Australian grey import:lol: Or a Dell Boy special:blushing:

Thanks Barrie - I feel a little queezy now:blushing:

There always is and is how you adjust the gap - just slide the paper in and bring the magnets round and let them pull the coil toward the flywheel.

It always worries me when people need workshop manuals as there are only very specific things that I would need to refer to within them. Try this: - Stihl%20020T%20Service%20Manual.pdf

The early saws don't have the date of manufacture incorporated in to the serial number but reckon it will be circa 30 years old. Personally I would by a second hand OEM part rather than aftermarket - you may find someone on this site has one spare. Worth trying to re gap the coil a little closer to the coil - try a sheet of typical A4 paper and try again before junking it.

Mmm, had an MS390 come in totally in bits, rebuilt it but had a black plastic disk left over, tried the parts list.....couldn't find it on the list. Contacted the owner and he was looking fo the part as well.....came off his Toyota Landcruiser:001_rolleyes: I can laugh now:lol:

Yeah, "looking for tools", first place I check is my hands, then my pockets and then the bin:001_rolleyes: I can only aspire to a workshop like that:thumbup:

Barrie - your workshop is too clean, you must be a crap engineer:lol: Mine is like a chainsaw factory that has been hit by a Tsunami followed by a tornado.....and that is on a good day!