spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Sorry, I missed the "bottom" as I was on my Blackberry and a bit early in the morning, I thought it was the top one Dohh:lol:
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Yes but it screws in to the handle so if the thread has gone....:confused1:replace the buffer????? That won't work!!!
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Sorry Martin - I won't do it again:blushing::lol:
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I think we confused most of the guys on here with vacuum and pressure testing - now you have really gone and done it:blushing: Think we had better stay with compression testers. Nice kit Mr Garden, a toy I don't have:thumbup:
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Sorry to hear that Alec, what a bummer, those saws are worth a few bucks! Perhaps we should leave one lying around with a little surprise for when they flick the switch.....boom:thumbup1: I know how much you liked your saws, guess they are replaceable but still bad:thumbdown:
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Flipping Husqvarna 40, all sorts of problems but got the thing sorted in the end - stripped the KM100 down as the thing still wasn't running right, the cutter holds pressure and vacuum but seems light on compression at around 90psi. The carb is in the US cleaner and will re-assemble and test once together. Stripping an MS200T down, one of six machines!
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The Meteor pistons have Caber rings - very good quality and no need to replace them with OEM ones:thumbup:
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Many of these paints don't resist petrol so take care, the Plasticote ones are not bad but worth testing for this on a bit of scrap aliuminium. May be worth trying a little T cut to see if it is surface discolouration!
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Never heard of them and google only shows up GHS doing kits for TS400s I recommend Meteor then Episan and then Golf. If the saw has value and Meteor or Episan are not available, I would go OEM! I have never had an issue with Meteor and is the piston of choice for me as it is 1/3rd of the OEM price and not far off the same quality!
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Well that just saved me a Christmas card:001_tt2:
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Stiga
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Further to my brothers Clearview, I run a Stovax Riva Inset, very modern looking and made of pressed steel but is a stonking stove, run it for 10 years and it is great, clean burn and very good operation. My Dad runs a Jotul, also a very good stove from Norway, you can still get parts for it 25 years on:thumbup:
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This sounds like fuel starvation to me, few things to check, check the metering arm height, check the impulse line, if it is holed, it will be producing less pump action. It sounds a little like the tank breather despite it being changed, loosen the fuel cap and see if the problem clears. Make sure the fuel line and filter are not holed of blocked and worth pressure checking the carb to make sure it isn't leaking. Worth richening and weakening the H screw and looking at the effect it has on the saw.
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Yup, thats the one - see if the chain is sticking in the rails through rust/gloop etc and see what the nose sprocket on he bar is like as well - usually just a case of breaking the diagnosis in to bite size elements and analysing the results. Your check on the sprocket will either rule out or confirm sprocket/clutch issues.
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If it is in servicable condition and not needing new parts, £250 sounds OK to me. Good solid saw, not a racer but a reliable work-horse.
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The chain should be free to revolve around the bar freely by hand, sounds like the sprocket and clutch have bound together or the chain is bound in the bar - some bio oil can do this if left for a season - it goes like rubber!
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My brother is a big fan of Clearview:thumbup:
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Never ceases to amaze me what abuse needle bearings will take and still work!
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Yes, Nepias MS230 was the metering arm being too low and causing fuel starvation - the change to Aspen just hilighted the issue where normal fuel didn't - now fixed just fine!
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Compression and or heat can cause spark issues. you need a certain amount of KV to jump a certain distance in air so a break in the HT lead may not stop a spark unless the break is a certain size. The speed you pull a saw over and also the distance between the coil and flywheel can also make a difference!
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No, not at all, just surprised that Gardenkit hasn't got on to the subject of Aspen yet:001_rolleyes: He is one of the good guys though but reckon he is on commission! The saw works, that is the main thing!
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Brotherly hug fellas, we are all friends together on this thread:thumbup:
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The tach needs a refresh of 0.5 second and go up to 20K revs, slower than this and it will drive you mad. The ones that have built in antennas are easier to use and the question on settings earlier 360 deg as the engine fires on each stroke and is singlew cylinder!
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Sounds something like I said:lol:
