spudulike

I would say if it is YOUR bench and only used by you then as long as you can find tools damn quick then being tidy isn't paramount. If the bench is shared then my one would probably be a nightmare for most:lol: With mine, I have a Stanley tool trolley full of plumbers grips, metal cutters, chisels etc, on top of it is the tray with pliers, scwrenches, files, pullers, hammers, mallets etc, all with the handles facing me then behind the vice to the left I have sockets, T bars, torx bits, long reach sockets etc......works for me - When I strip saws down......that is when I am tidy - aerosol caps for bolts for each part, paper cups for all carb bits and a selection of plastic containers so all the parts are contained together - all logical and tidy:thumbup:

I think you had better change your user name if you dont know:blushing::lol: Get a straight edge, lay it across the carb body where the diaphragm usually sits, and the metering arm should be either 0.3mm under it up to being level with it!

Oh man, here we go again, just need our West Country fella to throw Dolmar in to the pot:001_rolleyes::lol: On the Husky side, 346XP, 357XP, 365, 372XP these are all pro saws, very capable and spares damn easy as Arb types have been using them for years and they also share many parts with other models - all will cut as much wood as you are likely to burn in a year and reliably. You will be able to use the first two all day as they are light and powerful, the other two are more for ringing up. Stihl - the previously mentioned 026/MS260, the MS261 has a few issues with crankshaft sprocket ends so would personally would steer clear - others may disagree! MS440 is a solid option - I am not as famillier with the Stihl range though. My personal choice - get a tidy 357XP - light, powerful, will take 15" - 20" bar and has very good AV systems - these Huskys are one of the few models that don't bounce and move about when running on hard standing - very impressive saws! If you are doing more ringing type cutting then the 365 is one bullet proof saw:thumbup:

Here we go: -

I'm pretty damn sure you are right - no walking to the end of the workshop to find the socket set or grips, just need to turn to the left:thumbup:

Lastly - stuff these clean benches, mine is ergonomically cluttered and well used: -

Surprise Surprise, another MS200T up on the bench, same MO as the rest, given it the full health check and it fired up first time and runs fine:thumbup: Also got Burrells Tanaka hedge trimmer in bits - carb in the cleaner and reckon the exhaust may be carboned up!

Here are pictures of the MS440 I ported for JB, pretty pissed off that some low life has stolen a decent saw! The first pic is the dual port muffler, the second is the heavily modified transfers!

Yeah, Gardenkit is on the money, verify the way you tested thew saw, try checking a known good saw and compare figures! Was the bore OK, was the plating OK, if seized- was the aluminium transfer removed? The compression on these saws can read a little low but 135psi is more realistic and 145 psi when run in! It may be fuel related, the metering arm being too low have been the problem on the last two in!

I usually manage to get the adjustment screws out and then cut a slot in the top of them so they can be adjusted with a conventional flat head screwdriver:thumbup: Getting them out can be a bit of a sod though:thumbdown:

How true, starts and runs but not sure about the rest:lol:

Yeah, as Gardenkit said, most of the time it is nice to have a definite fault rather than some strange symptoms that don't add up to anything:thumbdown:

This is the second one, same bogging down on revving problem, stripped the unit down, found a badly split carb boot, damn lucky the saw didn't seize. Being thorough, I have pressure and vac tested, compression at 160psi so all good, recoil rope is ropey so replaced, pulled the boot off a body of a saw from the 6/7 units supplied. All looks pretty good, the carb is off a 020T and has now been cleaned and reckon it will be fine when rebuilt:thumbup:

Cracked on with the MS200Ts today, this one dosn't rev out and a good carb clean in the US cleaner has sorted it, did the full job on it, 160psi passed vac and pressure checks, started fine and looks a lot cleaner now

You can count me in:thumbup: good idea and couls benefit many!

Pretty much my thoughts, nice simple tune up on a 346, only used the 560 and that really flies as well - just depends on the home maintenance aspect - the 550 does it all with electronics, hell knows what to do if that goes astray:001_huh:

Nice pop up piston, what sort of compression does it make:lol:

Bugger, missed it:thumbdown: The Live in Munich DVD comes out regularly to rattle the windows, great band....any lead singer that drives a vintage Bentley around California is true rock and roll:lol:

Mmmm - she will chop it up and bung it on the fire:001_rolleyes: Hope they are gift wrapped!

Cheers, looking forward to it already...not!

Nice job Martin, that would make a nice garden table:lol:

The KM100 is still pretty ropey, not feeling the love of the four mix Stihls, tryinng to try another carb now! Below is a pile of......stuff that I will be wading in to over the next few days, hope to get a few runners out of this lot, all are for one customer so are not for sale before anyone asks:001_rolleyes: The first one out of the bag runs....badly, wont rev up at all well, great compression at 160psi:thumbup: Just stripping it down for clean, inspection, checks and reassembly. The fault is a possible airleak or a dodgy carb but confident it will make a good machine when done! This is the sort of thing I do - pick up where others would run a mile:thumbup:

I would start with compression, it may be lacking compression when warm causing the issues. Worth also checking the tank vent is clear - you could try loosening the tank cap when it doesn't start. My dosh is on low compression!

The kitchen worktop makes a fine bench as does the kitchen table - as long as er indoors is out and you clean all the crap off the surface and unless she comes home early:blushing:

No Screw thread on the 020 or MS200T, there are a couple of methods - undo the central nut, first is to use a set of small pullers but this works better with the tank removed as it gives more access, the other way is to pop a large screw driver between the flywheel and crankcase, tap it in to place and whack the end of the crank with a hard plastic/rubber mallet - the end float on the crank will allow the flywheel to come off:thumbup: