spudulike

Rich....your saw sounds like that Irish guys 024 a few months back, think he ebayed it in the end after nothing would fix it:001_rolleyes: Good luck with the cooking:thumbup1:

Have you vac and pressure checked it? Splits and some seal problems show up better on pressure check and some seal problems show up on vacuum check only - just depends on what may have failed.

If the carb has been cleaned (thinking of foreign bodies in the gauze filter) then it sounds like you may be getting puddled fuel in the crankcase on idle that is then flooding the engine when the saw is leveled. Try turning the L screw in on idle, when you hit the highest revs, undo it 1/8th of a turn and, when the saw is pretty cold, crank the throttle open and see if it picks up OK, if it bogs, open the L screw up slightly more, if not, leave and adjust the idle for correct idle speed. Try the test again - sounds fuel related and the common issues are crap in the carb, position of the fuel line/filter or the issue I mention above. Airleaks can cause similar issues but will cause soaring in revs on idle and can happen when the saw is on it side - have you pressure AND vac tested this saw, if you have, have you pushed, pulled and rotated the crankshaft when doing it? Another common problem is a hole in the impulse line where it joins the crankcase - the vac and pressure tests can miss this if you are not thorough! The pulling on the top handle at different angles can make the hole open and close causing issues! Good luck Rich:thumbup:

15" bar, 0.325 pitch....Gauge 1.3mm........... narrow kerf will make the saw fly, the Oregon Microlite Pro system with 95VPX chain will be impressive - it is semi chisel and cuts some 15% faster than others due to its narow kerf needing less engine power. You can fit a longer bar but it will sap more power from the saw! Rob D on here will give you a good deal and advice for that matter!

I have a small cheap Silverline sharpener, it has paid for itself a thousand times over and isn't bad at around £25. Much of the art of chain sharpening is in the user and not the equipment, there are a few techniques I use to ensure the chain isn't over heated and the sharpening is done well. The sharpener is good for when the chain has been mullered or badly sharpened and you want to get it back in spec - equal cutter lengths and angles etc. This can be done by file but is very time consuming! A quick sharpen is best done with files but for buggered long loops, a sharpener does a good job!

Hopefully you can offset the kitchen table against the fixed oven - unfortunately you are only as good as ypur last repair! Merry Christmas

Last post before Christmas, just been working through the last MS200T in the workshop - new chain catcher fitted, needs a new AV rubber, it has been stripped, cleaned and all the checks done, compression was very slightly low but the piston measured up OK so dropped the base gasket and all is good. Lots of crap on this one but is now a pound lighter and looks a little cleaner:thumbup: Happy Christmas to you all - the bench is clear and all is well:thumbup1:

Happy Christmas Jon, have a good one with lashings of "Cizzer":thumbup: Cheers Spud

You 2 Barrie, have a good one:thumbup:

Just buy her a pie maker like I did, nothing like a nice pie:thumbup: Hope I live to tell the tale:lol:

Good news all round, the saw is fixed, everybody is happy and I am sending Gardenkit a nice new hat for Christmas to celebrate....Oh my, he will have to eat it now, what a shame:blushing::lol: Yea, good forum, good banter and we all love Barrie despite his Aspen fettish and wanting to eat hats all the time - Happy Chrimbo to all:001_tt2:

Yeah, narrow kerf, run it on Aspen....to keep Barrie happy and not smoke the guests out, may as well keep the chips to make a curry so a wire basket under the sprocket would be good - perhaps made out of a sieve - you could have a drip tray below that to make the gravy:lol: Know what I will be doing this afternoon:lol:

Mmm larger cutter, bigger battery pack:001_rolleyes:

Thats given me a great idea:001_rolleyes::lol:

I would just like to wish a very Happy Christmas and New Year to all of the guys that follow this thread, the members that have had their saw fixed by me, and all the admin staff and Stevie B + the other techs that have made this thread what it is with now over 86,000 viewings....Happy Christmas:thumbup: I have spent hours creating a winter wonderland in the workshop (see below) and then forgot that bloke in the West Country so had to recreate it with a Dolmar! I was going to put some balls on the Husqvarna but then realised, it already has them:lol:

Been finishing off the 357XP, now reassembled, pressure and vac tested - all fine, carb cleaned and a muffler mod done. Fired right up, just need to fit a new tank vent and refit the clutch!

TBH, I would look out for a second hand OEM one, the Chinese ones are a bit hit and miss, I would fit OEM rings on any Chinese piston you may fit though if you go that route. Strange that the ring caught on the exhaust port, I reckoned it was a ring end that had caught - weird!

Don't worry, we are just counteracting your Aspen fetish:blushing::lol: Glad your oven is now sorted, had a similar one some 20 years ago, nice to get some brownie points:thumbup:

I have been thinking about your porting Rich, was it the lower ring on the inlet side that broke and gouged the ravine in your cylinder?

One very general rule of thumb is to take the cc of the saw and to divide by 3 to get the useful length of bar so for instance 20" on a 60cc saw would be comfortable and smaller would be faster with less bogging in the cut. 3' sounds like 3120 territory to me but as Rob says, that doesn't stop you sticking a 3' bar on - are you using semi or full skip chain on it, one way round sapping the power of the saw?

I always thought the PAT test was prodding them with a stick to find out if the cow pat was crusty or fresh:laugh1: Only joking - been involved with this test with the day job:sneaky2: My Christmas job was stopping the vice moving by tightening it down a bit:lol:

Right, the plastic replacement bearing has probably failed due to the build up of heat with the clutch slipping. The friction between the clutch slipping on the sprocket will cause this area to build up a lot of heat and the plastic bearing has failed due tho this. Greasing the bearing probably won't help the issue but I DO grease these bearings, they are manufactured to be lubricated and some Huskys even have a drilled out crankshaft end to allow greasing through. The first issue is to find out why the clutch is slipping, after theis time, it is likely the clutch shoes are worn down and need replacing - it is also worth checking the sprocket as this can also have a channel worn around its inside where the clutch contacts it. If you resolve the slipping issue, you will probably find the plastic needle is fine as some of the later Stihls use them with no issues. You may find that using a skip or semi skip chain would reduce loading or a narrow kerf one would help but this is rather masking the route cause! Hope this helps - interesting post!

:lol: bloody amateurs:lol: That wrench will be in your back pocket Rich!! Get a vid up when it is going well:thumbup:

As Rich says, no it isn't - if the clutch springs were bad, the chain would spin at idle, if the clutch shoes were worn, you would have the problem I described earlier. You have a lack of power from the saw, or possibly the bar nose sprocket is tight. Checking the nose sprocket is very easy - just spin the chain round the bar and make sure it spins round as normal. If the bar is OK then the saw needs a checking over, it may be a very simple problem or something more complicated but the route cause needs finding and resolving. As far as the engine goes, a compression check and checking the piston through taking the muffler off is a very quick and easy check that covers a multitude of sins and after that, the fuel system - pipes, vents and internals need checking!