spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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If the piston is scored (Lots of photos on my whats on your bench thread) then this will lower compression and the idle will play about if you are lucky enough to get it started. The saw may also be a bitch to start when hot! If the piston is scored, the rebuild will be an interesting project as the engine is a clam type construction and not the easiset of machines to work on! Good luck with it and don't forget to investigate the route cause of failure - old fuel is common and the saw running lean is another!
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It depends if you have a spark arrestor fitted, it can cause issues with the saw bogging down and that would be the first sign of issues. It is easy to see if you have an arestor and remove it, with the amount of rain we have in the UK it generally isn't needed and is for more arrid conditions. Few questions, when the saw idles, does it die immediately or do the revs falter and tail off? Have you tried increasing the idle speed a little to bring them up so it doesn't die? It could be in need of a simple carb tune and adjusting this and the idle speed will resolve your issues and is the most likely fix! Have you made sure the air filter is clean and the plug looks clean - if it is black and oily, this could be a sign that the saw is running rich or the spark arrestor, if fitted, is blocked. Let us know how you get on
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Husky 345 - run one for three years - mine ran at 170psi and was in very good nick, I have done a few now and most have been over 150psi with 160psi being average. This has been measured on a Gunson Hi Gauge - it does mae a difference as some gauges have more resistiv valves in them and measure lower! Most saws in decent used condition will pull 150psi, some saws with little use will have 170psi, older saws with domed pistons can pull well over 200psi, my ported saws pull 180 - 200psi and the earlier mentioned Jonsered is frighteningly high:001_huh: Some saws do run low from pretty much new - the 365 Husky and Stihl 066/660 do come in at around 145 -150 and never really seem to be much more. The general rule of thumb is anything over 145psi is good as long as the piston isn't scored!
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The saw needs testing first......any interest by PM please guys, I don't want to break the forum guidelines....gotta keep Stevie B happy:blushing:
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Had one that split one of the dowel turrets and did the pictured repair - it was a right sod:lol: Keep the pivots well oiled and clean the crap out once in a while!
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Been refurbing yet another MS200T, this one was purchased by A N Other as a non runner, stripped of some spares and then the owner decided to get it going again. I have reworked the cylinder and fitted a new piston. The cylinder and muffler looked like an over baked chocolate Brownie and was dmn hard to clean:thumbdown:
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Been working on a troublesome Jonsered 2051, these saws are right rippers in their own right but this one would reluctantly start and then wouldn't re-start when hot. Compression dropped a lot when warm so did some work on the gasket spacer and managed to find a slightly oversize piston - "B" in an "A" bore - compression is now an amazing 230psi and the saw sounds.......slightly hot:thumbup: Did a little porting when I was working on it. Be interesting to see how it performs now, am thinking it may be a bit like a 346 as the 2051s are supposed to run at 14,600rpm but havent checked yet! Another one to sell out once tached:thumbup:
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Another busy weekend, refurbed a Stihl 020T - pressure and vac tested - the picture shows why I keep banging on about these tests - the crank shaft seal on the oil pump side had a big airleak - put a new seal in and the flywheel one was leaking slightly and then got worse on pushing on the shaft - the seal has gone hard so replaced them both! This will be the third Stihl topper I now have for sale:thumbup:
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Yes - fiddly little machines to work on, the other common fault with the oiler is for the oiler pinion gear metal arm to slide around the plastic clutch gear on high hours machines:thumbdown:
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Good point Barrie - got caught out in the early days with this one:blushing: I think they are old Walbro carbs - possibly off something like a 266 or old Jonsered! The diaphragm shouldn't need grinding down if the correct part is fitted but if you CANT get the correct part then I know what I would do....grind the rivet bit by bit until it works OK:thumbup: Just make sure at full bore, the saws revs dont soar as the fuel in the diaphragm bowl is depleted - if they do, grind off some more so there is extra fuel in this part of the carb!
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Oh thanks for that Barrie, you can't help yourself can you:001_rolleyes: Bet you drink the stuff as well don't you:blushing:
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I use carb cleaner but anything that de-greases and evapourates quickly is OK, meths will work fine - just make sure the body is free from all contamination otherwise the epoxy won't stick!
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Once you have used one, you won't go back!
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I would thoroughly de-grease, prepare an aluminium patch, drill some locating holes through the plate and in to the tank, put a good coating of JB weld around the hole and then put on the plate and screw in to place with some self tapping screws. Difficult to judge without seeing the hole but this should keep it oil tight:thumbup:
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OK, the coil will be limited to 14100rpm - this means that when you hit 14100rpm the tach will go all over the place, you will need to detune the saw to below this level and then tach and reset the carb until around 14000rpm and then turn the H screw slightly clockwise and the next reading will be either just under 14100rpm or all over the place - your work will be done, the carb AND rev limited coil are both set at 14100rpm! You can see why I change the coils on ported saws:lol:
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Glad to be of help...show a man to fish and he will never go hungry:thumbup: or something like that!
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The chains have been dropped off, a bit of advice on sharpening chains, the angles, chain types and how the depth gauges work. Adam has a near new Stihl sharpening kit and now knows how to use it. I will grind the chains to get them back to good condition and my work will be done!
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Spot on, beat me to it! One simple check to the high speed running is to do a few flat out cuts, stop the engine and look at the plug colour, if it is coffee coloured, all is good. graphit grey or bleached white is bad news and get it checked quickly!
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I have only ever tached one saw up without an airfilter being present and that was a slight mistake - five MS200Ts and only two air filters! It revved briefly up to 15k so 1k above what I had set it to earlier! Deductions - leaving the air filter off will increase the airflow and make the saw run lean. I reckon the saw is a slow revving beast and that you should just aim for around 12,000rpm, chances are that the carb should be set to one turn on each screw but check for four stroking at the top end to be sure. Is it possible to drill holes so adjustment is possible - seems pretty strange not to have any form of access to mixture adjustment??? I guess if you must, tune the saw without the filter so it fourstrokes normally and then turn it slightly lean for when the filter and cover are replaced - as long as it revvs out and fourstrokes with the cover on, all should be good!
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Heh..heh heh...hehehe "tool" heheheheh
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Of course Morten is correct and anyone in the field or lightly sharpening chains after a days use will use this type of kit. Not sure how much Adam uses saws or the state of the chains, sometimes they get mullered, sometimes they need bringing back to spec and when large amounts of metal need removing, a grinder is very efficient when used correctly. I will give Adam a few tips if he is interested and suggest the kit he may use if he hand sharpens his chains and go from there. Some are just not interested in hand sharpening, some purchase new chains to avoid it - and some just shag a number of them and then get them all reground - it's the owners choice!
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From what I have seen, I think the Wolf is a McCulloch California in different colours - not bad saws TBH, fairly strong and have alloy crankcases! If the spark test you are doing is good and you definitely don't have spark when the saw is hot but it returns when cold then it may well be the coil electronics breaking down. One thing you can try is to reduce the gap between the coil and flywheel, it is usually the thickness of a business card but try using a piece of A4 paper, make sure the coil doesnt touch the flywheel when spun and try again. You can try disconnecting the kill wire from the coil but it doesn't sound like this is the problem - fortunately the saw has many incarnations so spares shouldn't be an issue! Oh - try a new plug, they don't go wrong often but worth a £1.50 spend!
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I get Husky parts from Greenstripe.net but some of the sponsers on here may be able to help
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Ah - that must have been your thread then - Doh:blushing: While you are waiting for the tach, take a look at the colour of your coils, if they are blue then they are limited and your tuning method needs changing a little. If they are black, just use the tach to reach within 500rpm of max revs!
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We were just covering until you reappeared:lol: Just wondering how you are going to bring Aspen in to a thread about chain sharpening:blushing:
