spudulike

The Husky 262 shares the same unit, best look out for one on ebay - £20-25 delivered is the going rate! The 254 is a very common and popular machine - one is very likely to come up and soon!

Very interesting, the Save Edge are damn good files - like the good old English ones I bought a job lot of unlike those cheap old Chinky ones. You can always tell a good file by the way it bites in to hard metal and stays that way. Very good Rob, looks like you will get some orders when you get stock. I had always heard Vallorb are the best but there you go:blushing:

Thats what I call a loaded question:lol: One very simple check I do on all new pistons and P&C kits is to put the piston in the bore without it's rings and push it to the end of the bore with my finger over the sparkplug hole - the OEM or quality piston in OEM bore generally produces a nice tight fit and softens the movement to TDC, the Chinese P&C kits are usually pretty loose especially when the piston is at the base of the cylinder. You don't need to check many before you get adept at checking this and knowing when the P&C will make good compression. The rings can be brittle - the Meteor pistons have Caber high quality rings - Tesgol sells these as well:thumbup: Other issues are the quality of the plating - it can be full of small imperfections and the squish can also be pretty hit and miss so compression can be down. The OEM cylinder base is machined, many Chinese ones are unfinished. Burrell and I have quite an experience in this area:thumbup1: The bevel of the ports can also be pretty rough as well. Just my experiences! Be interested in seeing the new MS200T kit - I have purchased a fair bit off Tesgol and most of it has been fit for purpose and fine - he does do a good aftermarket dual port muffler for a 440/460 Stihl....nice!

Those electronic systems are great when they work but when they dont............bugger all I can do for you - sorry:thumbdown:

Oh - I sensed Patrick was a Stihl man on listening to 10 mins of how crap Huskys are - wonder what he did with the timber cookies and sawdust:lol:

I think "Quiet" and our Huskys are poles apart, barely run my 357 due to a local guy beefing about the noise - think it was Stus ported 064 that did it- now that is a loud saw:lol:

The next "boys day out" will hinge on one of the local guys having the time to make the arrangements and use of a local yard. Last time MattyF sorted it with a local timber processor - will have a word and see what it brings. Need to ensure the weather is good! The Ported saws are quicker to rev up and will pull harder in the cut - you will be impressed:thumbup:

Tached up the 395 today and out for a bash with it on Saturday, may even get a vid up later. Fixed the oiler on the 064 - now fine. Started work on the lawnmower, yes, you heard me right...LAWNMOWER. Got a local bloke who doesn't follow the site run in his lawnmower. Last time he got it back he said it almost pulled his arms out of their sockets - he didn't believe me that it wasnt running very well. Anyway - it came in, very difficult to pull over after over revving - I had thoughts of twisted crank or bent rod but noticed that the machine turned over fine with the blades engaged. I guessed it would be clutch related, had a quick word with Gardenkit and found the below, methinks this bearing needs replacing:lol:

Looking forward to taching this saw up, be even better seeing it buried in some big wood - the guy next door looked impressed when I wandered out of the front door and fired it up - no complaints:lol: Early signs are good, decent compression usually means it will have good torque and the work I have done should improve the power somewhat. Time will tell - will see what Matty is up to and get some fuel through it - I sense another "Boys day out", think we have a few new members to the team:thumbup:

Well I guess it is all about what impact running the saw with the air filter cover is having, is it just stoping the flow of air, is it pinching a fuel line or pinching an impulse line or breather? Air filters can be cleaned in soapy water, vanish is particularly good as is bleach. Carb cleaner and compressed air is good........... What happens if you leave the air filter off and replace the top cover. Earlier comments were on the distinct lack of info on the first post:001_rolleyes:

Here we have "my day off" - porting a Husky 395XP...The owner ran it on straight petrol - bad man! Got a nice Meteor piston in, the bore was pretty good and cleaned up just fine. The piston gave little in the way of porting so ground off the casting lines and smoothed the windows a little. The exhaust and inlet ports were squared up and the exhaust port roof raised a little to make up for the base gasket being dropped. the lower transfers were heavily modified and the uppers raised by the height of the base gasket and re-modeled to increase the scavanging of the exhaust gases. The muffler was modded with a twin port and the result is 170psi - not tached it yet but it sure sounds good:thumbup:

This is like pulling teeth:001_rolleyes:

The gaskets will be OK as the seals probably will be, no idea about the crankshaft but my experience on cylinders and pistons isn't very good, generally the pistons are a bit sloppy in the bore and wont make the same compression as the OEM one, the port beveling is a bit rough and dont reckon the plating will last as the OEM will. When a saw seizes, I would always re-use the OEM cylinder if possible with a quality piston. I have used the chinese ones before but have had issues with rings being brittle, badly formed ring ends and sloppy fit. You get what you pay for - second user parts are a better bet IMO What parts are you specifically after?

Didn't mention it before but that packing - man that was one big parcel for four tiddy files - the wife got quite excited, thought it was a pressie for her:blushing: Cmon lads, get those results in, I am a busy man and filed a couple of chains to get my results back what seems weeks ago!!

Mmm - Last year I picked up an 880 from BlackBriarwood in Sept and dropped it back off in Nov fixed and working - just about lived to tell the tale:lol: BTW - it is a vicious rumor that I now accept cake as payment for repairs:blushing: Not sure I want my ported 346 getting wet:thumbdown:

Yup, anything from £100 for a bit of a dog up to over £300 for a nice condition one. Check out ebay for a guide!

well I stay around Stalham so will listen out for the wail of an MS200 followed by swearing:thumbup:

Where in Norfolk are you based, up there on holiday in five weeks time:thumbup: Just don't tell the wife I have asked:001_rolleyes:

Not in an arb workplace but work with heavy equipment - I have sacked workers for turning up at work drunk or not fit to work through the after effects - it is your job against theirs, if there is an accident and they have more than two days off work through injury then the following H&S enquiry will do you no favours and you may well be found to be liable! Do yourself a favour and spend your time with someone that wants to work IMO, on in ten is the perfect fit, four are acceptable and the other five are pretty crap and feel that three days a week is about right for attendance! Get the right person and it is like a weight has been lifted off your shoulders. There is no place for drink or drugs in the workplace.

Today it proves thoroughness wins the day - had another look at the 064 oiler, noted the clutch backplate washer was missing and also that the elbow pipe that joins the oil pump to the oiler channel in the bar mount has a tiny hole in it - only noticed by pressure testing it, it just wouldn't hold pressure. The owner was conplaining that the oiler was intermittent and oil was coming from under the saw - I am replacing the worn pinion, the missing washer and the pipe. I also checked the breather and the feed pipe/filter, both were fine. I also started on a local guys 395XP, he strait fuelled it and the damage can be seen below, the piston is toasted but the bore looks pretty good. The saw is to be ported and the arrows on the piston photo show the restrictive width of the upper part of the piston skirt, the Meteor piston I am fitting doesn't have this problem as the edges of the skirts are straight:thumbup: The inlet port looks pretty wide but the exhaust looks like it will widen and re-shape plus lots to do on the transfers and piston windows. A dual port muffler is also on the cards - nice thing about doing a machine locally is the abillity to see the saw in action after doing it - rather looking forward to this one!

A few years ago, I purchased my first "proper" chainsaw secondhand, I mailed Husqvarna with the serial number asking for the user manual and got the exploded parts list, the user manual and service manual within 24 hrs. Call me a cynic but don't reckon I would have got anything from Stihl - they are typically Germanic about any technical data and it makes life much more dificult IMO!

Martins 357 was a new piston (standard) squish lowered, ported exhaust and inlet ports, opened lower transfers and re-modeled uppers. The muffler was also modded - seems pretty fast from what I have seen! I don't get much time to use the saws I do, shame! Mine is the only one we have done a pop up piston on!

Cheers and time for bed - thats NOT a proposition BTW:blushing:

A brief description of porting: - What you are doing is increasing the flow of gasses through the engine, this in turn increases the venturi effect on the carb pulling in more fuel without adjusting the H screw. The above has the effect of making the saw fourstroke more heavily at manufacturers maximum revs and allows you to run the saw at higher revs than would otherwise be achieveable on a standard machine. The compression is raised by lowering the squish - distance between the combustion chamber and the piston by either removal of the base gasket, fitting a custom gasket or machining what we call a "pop up piston". Port timing can be adjusted by raising the height of transfers and exhaust port and lowering the inlet port but generally I widen the ports and re-model the lower and upper transfers. There are constraints on the amount you widen ports such as the type of piston, ring end position and skirt width on open port pistons (windowed) and the size of the bore - this is where you need to be damn carefull! Open the lower transfers out too much and the transfer velocity will be effected - it is all a balancing act! Also windowed pistons can be opened up to increase transfer velocity! Each element adds a little more and has the effect of allowing the saw to rev higher and hold higher chain speed in the cut. The 357 is something I have really played with, typically they may run at around 14Krpm, the one I did for Burrell fourstroked very heavily at that speed and was giving a good coloured plug and about right at around 15Krpm. A standard machine may well fry at that and also the plug would be bleached white by the lean mix. Once you have run a ported saw, it becomes a need - I have used standard saws bigger than my own and thought - is that it:confused1:, you get used to the wailing and blitz of chip and noise:thumbup: The last thing is going up a pin on the sprocket and fitting a short bar - that gets really fun! Hope that explains a bit!

If they are presentable, it is a good price for some sought after saws - all are worth £200+ if they are good runners.