spudulike

Good question but can't answer it. I have often wondered the same but on the top end. The compression must be phenomenal compared to the start up pull over at 14,000 rpm. I guess if you tried to measure it, all you would get is an average pressure or vacuum as it all happens so quickly.

Good work getting one of these sealed. The inlet manifold and crank seals on the clutch side are usually difficult on these machines.

On the FS360, it sounds like the air filter is getting saturated in fuel/oil mix, this on an older machine, is possibly caused by a broken or significantly worn piston skirts causing blow-by from the crankcase back through the carb when the piston drops down on the power stroke. I suspect the fix may have been something much more simple so blocked exhaust/spark arrestor is possible as is carboned up exhaust port.

I read that and my response stands, get rid of the pulley rotor and replace with the single solid pulley rotor without a spring. I think the issue is caused by a bit of wear but is bloody frustrating.

If the engine hasn't seized then I would say that the fuel/oil have burnt off or evaporated leaving the engine looking clean rather than carbonizing leaving carbon and oil. So...no issue or problem, it's done what you buy it for.

I don't know but I reckon he is 36-37 years old!

L&S may not state they have stock but often can supply in days - make a call and see what they can do...unless a magic man comes up and offers you one!

The MS260 one is 3mm compared to the MS200t being 1.5mm - this is the measurement from both sides of the diaphragm. The difference in set up is that the 3mm MS260 metering arm is set level with the diaphragm bowl bottom whereas the 1.5mm MS200 is set to be level with the carb body - the part the diaphragm sits on. Your description of an L screw tune is completely wrong. With your saw set with the L screw at 1 1/4 turns and idle around 2500rpm, if you turn the screw in, you should get the saw rising possibly 250-500rpm just before the saw dies. If your saw is revving as you say, either the idle screw is far to far in or the saw has a big air leak. One of my own test with saws is that if you can wind the L screw all the way in and the saw still runs, the saw has an air leak or the idle screw is wildly to far open. I would suggest having the carb off and looking at the throttle valve then adjusting the idle screw so the valve is ever so slightly open - easy to see looking at it against a bright light. Set the H & L screws to 1 1/4 turns, refit and initially adjust the idle so the saw idles OK and then do the adjustment. The tank and fuel spurting....., the fuel in the tank gets pressurised when the fuel gets warm, if the tank is fitted with a ONE WAY breather that only lets air in, the fuel will spurt on disconnecting the fuel line. Some tanks have TWO WAY breathers such as the fibre pills and coarse screw in tube types and these will be less likely to spurt when the fuel line is disconnected. It is however, worth checking your fuel line for blockage and checking the fuel filter is not blocked. I have seen the part alloy ones have metal oxide blocking and issues in manufacturing or just old age. Goodluck

Did a Google and "Saxon" came up....their better known single was 747 Strangers in the night! Don't know if it was this?

I have done a couple of these saws and they aren't great but you should be able to improve the running with a bit of carb tuning assuming the gauze strainer isn't bunged up or the piston hasn't nipped up at some stage in its life. Generally, these saws are often set a bit lean so if it is idling OK, don't sod around with the L screw and if it is revving out OK, don't sod around with the H screw. Let us know more about the symptoms but 1.25 - 1.5 turns on whichever screw is giving you the bad running...L low speed or H high speed.

Cryogenics, that's the answer.

I did have suspicions with your Christian name being Aled.....unfortunately not just down the road and have knocked the postal repairs on the head! Sorry.

Yes, I have access to it....where are you in the country.....and don't take that as me wanting work but you may be just down the road!

And the clutch could open up taking out the brake band and anything else in its path! Should have removed the clutch then done the test.

Worth getting a dealer to plug it in and see what the CST read out looks like. You can often read a fair bit in to what the H&L is set to. Did you check the pump diaphragm? I have seen the pump flaps holed on high use saws. Has the saw got decent compression? I have also seen poor compression on high hours saws but saying that, the one I have in at the moment is 371 hrs and has very decent compression.

Vermont Castings Explorer or so Google tells me! A little rare I think.

Very true words as most don't have a clue on this type of kit so if you have good ability, can turn kit around reliably, fast and have a high success rate, a reasonable living can be achieved.

Just looked at one I have on the bench and if you actuate the choke - second picture lever on the left and then take it off so the choke is open again, when you rotate the black plastic assembly (bottom pic) the throttle cable is attached to, the fast idle should click off with an audible click. The rest is just inspection if this isn't happening

You need to place the carb/air filter elbow on the carb and then apply the choke and fast idle positions to see what is going on with the mechanism.

You could see if a dose of WD40 and a compressor will sort it and then try the more complex stuff.

Well it sounds like the fast idle is stuck on somehow. I have seen bits of twig have this sort of effect on carb linkages but it sounds like you need to take a look at at the carb and throttle linkage.

Glad it worked out and pleased our advice helped.

Has someone had the carb elbow off and not meshed the carb to choke lever on reassembly. On the saw before starting it, you lift the choke lever, push it back on to fast idle setting and open the throttle, do you hear a slight click as the fast idle is released?

I think most are different.

Good job, the OEM case reassembly tool is a bit like your home made ones - better tan using the screws and risking damaging the thread. You probably know but you need to "de-stress" the bearings once assembled, using your tools, it may not be necessary but you basically give each end of the crank a couple of belts with a copper mallet. This sorts out any stress in the bearings usually from using the screws to draw the cases together.