spudulike

The impulse line allows the fuel in the fuel tank to be pumped to the carb ABOVE it...think of it as part of a mini fuel pump. I have seen saws run with them removed as the fuel tank generally has a bit of positive pressure in it but when this goes negative, the saw will not run. Idling issues on these saws are more often than not, down to the solenoid...I know you have changed it. You mention changing the "Reeds"...these saws don't have reeds..reeds allow the carb to pump fuel mix vapour directly in to the crankcase whilst sealing it once positive pressure forms in the crankcase which does away with the piston timing on the inlet port on the cylinder. Old saws may have reeds as well as old two stroke motorcycles. You may mean the pump diaphragm, when you replaced these diaphragms, I trust the spacer sealing gaskets were replaced in the correct order....the pump diaphragm should rest directly against the carb body, the metering diaphragm should have the spacer garket between it and the carb body. Did you change the gauze strainer? This causes many issues on carbs. Have you checked the fuel line and fuel filter? some of the Stihl solenoid upgrade kits come with the later orange (finer) fuel filter. The exhaust can block as Stihl like to make the outlet pretty small but it sounds like you have been there. The wiring loom under the top handle front AV mount can stress and stretch/break the wires especially if the saw has stuck in the cut at some stage and it is best to either measure the continuity of the three wires or just replace the loom. I had one saw that seemed fine but would consistently cut out if shaken violently. Have you checked the coil to flywheel gap? Is the HT lead in good order? Seen plenty of saws where the spur has come away from the HT lead.

Probably the easiest method and I have done one before like this, the pressure the closed door exerts will make sure the seals set in place. After four hours, you could make up a small fire just to finish off the glue hardening. Other than that, you could make something up that resembles a car ball joint remover or chain link remover to push the pin out, something like this: -

Yup, the pic of the top hinge shows that it won't lift. The grub screw needs to be removed and the pin off the bottom hinge removed as others have said.

Yup, it pissed off a few villagers when I ran it up....but everything used to piss them off!!

You may be able to open up the chimney but don't just go at it as you may need to let in a steel lintel (or a strip of thick steel) to stop the thing falling in. Sometimes, old houses have had their chimneys reduced and you just need to reverse the earlier work.

You should try Google Lens....it identifies pretty much anything and is pretty decent.

I would say that the grub screw is holding the hinge pin in the hinge moulding on the door. The pin itself looks like the top of it has been mushroomed so it won't fall through the hole if the grub screw loosens. I would say WD40 and then try to lift the door whilst opening and closing the door. A bit of manipulation and I think the door will start to lift off...it may take a decent bit of wobbling to and fro whilst giving it a lifting motion but it should lift. If you have a mapp gas plumbers torch, you could heat the hinge up a bit and add a bit of oil - it may catch fire so be prepared....the heat may help but try without first.

Been a long time since I have had one of these apart but from memory, the crimped bit fits in to the white quadrant on the carb. I would think that you haven't got the cable sleeving set right at one end or the other. it has probably ridden out of its seat and is now catching making the cable inner too short. Check the cable is set right at both ends and it should be fine.

....I was saying...the other end should connect to a small connector on the side of the cylinder. If it seems short, it will be kinked up somewhere...may be a case of removing the top cover and looking again.

There should be a hole under the pump diaphragm cover about the diameter of a pencil, thus should have a fine stainless gauze mesh in it. If this isn't present, you should fit one but it is strange if this is the first time apart unless it has been in to a repair fella that has lost it and couldn't be arsed to fit a new one. The impulse...not done enough Makitas to say more but one end should connect to the brass elbow on the carb pump diaphragm and the other end should connect to a brass connector near the join on the

Didn't mention, I have been messing with computers since MS DOS and Dr DOS and learnt a lot configuring OS and machines for gaming etc

Get a new battery off eBay, fit the SSD dirve, that will really amaze you - mine took around 2 mins to boot and now it is under 15 secs plus general running is so much faster! The SSD drive will make the battery last longer and the software most major brands supply make the job easier - just move the data across, swap the drives and bingo (you may need a USB to hard disk cable...eBay again. The RAM is the last bit...relatively cheap, just find out what the max is that you can fit and then purchase it and load it up. Doing this saves a LOT of £££ and more importantly, gives you what you are after. It helps if you have a decent CPU...quad core etc but it will definitely help.

Yup looks like an impulse line, not sure why the hose looks so short, take apart and try again? The issue you have sounds like lack of fuel at high revs. I would normally strip and clean the carb, perhaps remove the H & L screw, bit of carb cleaner down each, check the pump diaphragm and gauze strainer, reassemble and try. If it is still the same, try richening the H screw and see if it gets it going....turn it out a couple of turns which should make it run super rich then turn the screw in until the engine has a slight fours troking at max revs and try it again. The saw looks relatively fresh, a new fuel filter may help as well.

Tonight I am burning old pallets and old fencing...fecking hot....down to the underwear....not much left to go

Yup ADW is the man on Husqvarna but on sharpening...you can do a relatively good job, on the machine with a dremel and a diamond grinding bit. The other option is stripping the blades off and using a file if you have a lot of wear, a good flat file and know what you are doing. Do NOT use an angle grinder!!!!

What is wrong with the current laptop? If it is just sluggish, stick the most RAM you can fit and stick in a new SSD in it if it hasn't got one yet. Doing this is relatively cheap and TBH, unless you are a top gamer or a professional Graphic designer, it will get you back where you need to be for relatively low £££! I have my old work laptop from, I would guess 9 years ago and it boots in seconds and does pretty much everything I need it to do!

File for a quick lick on the chain, a grinder for a buggered one that needs to be brought back to life.

I have used the Tiny Tech TT20k which is the 9v battery workshop model of the version above. It has been perfect over the 9 or so years I have owned it and it works well without wiring it up and never used the clamp that comes with it.

Blimey, what happened to the last 18,000years......just flew by

They go even better with a few engine tweaks!! Just saying

This is a very old school method of getting an engine going, the sort of thing that is written in stone or Dead Sea scrolls...handed down from father to son over the years and...it works as it helps, dry the plug and helps vapourize the fuel just where the plug needs it. Does it work....got home once and my neighbour had spent the last hour trying to get a hired Whacker plate going....I said.....What John said and went in for a cuppa, two minutes later....he was Whacking like a good un and it has worked for me on many saws over the years. It won't fix a fooked coil but it gives a semi or fully flooded engine the best chance.

Not being funny or knocking the enthusiasm but I trust you have disclosed that you are using your motorbike for work to your insurance company plus, having come off my bike many years ago at around 60mph (High Sided), it was painful enough just in jeans and leather jacket....If I had that much kit around me, I may not have survived as much of my path was on my back and found that trying to slow myself down only caused me to tumble over and over so just held arms in and took a slide on my back/arse until I stopped.

When you pull the saw over without using the decomp valve, does it have good compression? 7-9 years is a relatively long life by modern standards. It may be the breather or air filter...both are pretty common issues and hope ADW is correct on this. Try lifting the 562 and 560 together on the pull start and see which one falls to earth the fastest.

How old/condition is the machine and whats the compression like? Do you use the decomp as if compression is a bit low, using the decomp valve wont help. When you try to restart the saw, are you using full choke, nothing or putting the choke lever on JUST the fast idle setting? It may be the saw has other issues, a carb strip, clean and rebuild may help, I once had one in with perforated pump flaps which had been missed by the first few guys that had looked at the machine. The gauze strainer is a favourite troublemaker so worth checking. This model can wear the piston fairly quickly and low compression and poor starting are two of the symptoms.

Try L&S if you haven't already, they do stock and support Makita kit.