spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I did think this as well, not funny the second time round either!!
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You just remove the black plastic handle part that sits around the greasing point. Remove the insert with the small locking screw and fit the new part as per the included instructions. I don't think you need much more stripping than that. Make sure you fit the washers in the correct manner and don't over torque any of the parts.
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The MK1 was prone to the impulse line coming off. This is under the air box and in between it and where the recoil rope comes out of the cover. Other than that, the metering diaphragm can bag out but check the pump diaphragm and gauze strainer as well . It sounds like lack of fuel and that points to the gauze strainer. If it is plugged, flush the fuel tank as well.
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They were a band...great riffs, Phil Lynott was a big loss!!
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Sounds like fuel starvation. Fit a new fuel line and fuel filter if not done in the last few years, strip the carb, check the gauze strainer for blockage. Reset the screws H and L to one turn out from fully in and see how it goes. Pulling off the exhaust and checking out the piston is a good idea.
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He means "tired", the spelling on this forum isn't one of its strong points and Stubby is one of the better ones!! Your position is a common one and you must pull the saw over pretty sharpish to get a spark on some models. On some older machines, a really slow pull is fine and on some like the MS461 and MS660 need an enthusiastic pull. Sometimes you can overcome weak magnets by closing up the coil to magnet gap by using A4 paper rather than a business card....this will advance the spark by a degree or two as well which you probably won't notice.
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Its only a flesh wound!
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As above. They can fail in a number of ways..... Sometimes the heat in the coil after 20 mins use will just kill the spark and then it will come back after a bit of time just to happen again. Sometimes the machine just dies with no spark or sometimes they emit a spark at the very first pull and not after. Sometimes they spark in free air but not under compression. And I also have had a couple that will idle perfectly but the high speed spark advance has failed and the engine just dies exactly like a bad carb and did exactly as above...two rebuilds later, I fitted a new carb and exactly the same thing, swapped the coil...bingo, absolutely perfect. I have had one or two with bad HT connections as well, in fact, if the HT circuit shorts or arcs, that can cause coil failure. If your machine was in and it wouldn't idle, I would fit a new solenoid pretty much before anything else bar a quick inspection...plug etc.
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Strange one, you do need to view the spark in subdued light, pull it over pretty fast and also make sure the plug is earthed on the top of the cylinder. If you are still not getting a spark, did the new coil come with a new HT lead or was it the old one? How did you gap the coil to the flywheel? a business card is generally a good method. If all this has failed, the magnet has failed in the flywheel. This is pretty rare and only seen one before - a MS461 that has a nylon flywheel and the magnets are not the size of the ones on your machine. Generally magnets only fail through age...possibly 20 years+ or through impact with the coil of loose screw etc. Other than that, check the engine is earthed to the coil with a continuity meter.
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Well when they do....don't park your car under them. I retrieved half a bucket of shyte from my cars two front wings after removing the expanded rubber inserts....all leaves and seeds and have only had it around 5 years. 400.....masochist!!
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Just picked up on this thread.....better than a soap opera and similar to the Two Ronnies.....I need some "O"s.... It looks like this tree needs a bit if audience participation from both tenants or the landlord/agent to get off his arse, give the new growth a good dose of glyphosate and drill and plug the stump with a suitable kill and rot chemical or just glyphosate it. An ideal time would be during a long and hot dry season when any tree is under a lot of stress but never mind. I have learn't in life that bitching about something isn't going to do anything....get your landlord to get a suitably licensed gardener to spray all the new growth and plug the stump otherwise this will be a new thread about felling a tree in 15 years time!!! -
It looks like a bigger version of my £45 24 litre one. It has been pretty much faultless in the 5 years I have had it, run it daily for most of that time. The only thing that failed was a thick rubber diaphragm which was some sort of pressure cut off and got a spare for £10 as it is a generic..."slap your company name on me" type. Better than the £120 screwfix one I had before. It is a bit noisy but....£45.....you can easily do that on a meal for two! I still don't know why it was so cheap as it went up to double my price a few days later....probably a mistake....and they delivered it for free
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I'm moving!! Not because of the trees but thought I would swerve it this year but the feckers are dropping early. I have driven 100 miles and opened the car boot....it is like a shower of those fecking little seeds and all of them ending up in my car. Go in to our bathrooms and turn the fan on....more of the feckers, leave the windows on the latch.....you've guessed it......Grrrrrr
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Our village has silver birch all round it, our neighbours have one in the front garden, those seeds get everywhere....car, inside, bathroom ventilation, window frames even the bloke servicing the car commented on the explosion on removing the air conditioning filter on the car, The leaves are just as bad and as for those sodding catkins in the spring....who invented such an annoying species I can sympathize with the customer and would cut the thing down at the base given an option.....and I like a nice tree!!!
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L&S are listing this part: - Solenoid Valve for Stihl FS460 Brushcutter - 0000 120 5111 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Solenoid Valve for Stihl FS460 Brushcutter Genuine Stihl Part. OEM No. 0000 120 5111 Suitable for the Following Applications: FR460 TC-EFM, FR460 TC-EM, FS360 C-EM, FS360 C-EM Z...
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If you are saying the saw stalls on idle, replace the fuel solenoid. Their is an upgrade kit which includes the grey solenoid and a fine mesh fuel filter that will work.
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If the clutch was sticking shut, the engine would rev out but the blades won't reciprocate. It sounds like something in the gearbox is expanding and getting tight when hot. The gearboxes do tend to get relatively warm with use. Does the blade feel hot anywhere along its length? After 20-30 mins, do the blades still reciprocate from low revs and freely or is their signs that they are seizing up? This may just be a case of stripping the unit down, clean, grease and reassemble.
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Yes, as above, you can purchase all the bits you need as a kit - Set Fastening Parts for Stihl HL-KM 0-145 Angle Drive - OEM No. 4243 007 1300 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Set- Fastening Parts Genuine Stihl Part OEM No. 4243 007 1300 (Replaces OEM No.4243 643 0500) Suitable for the Following Application's: HL 91 K, HL 91 KC, HL 92 C, HL 92 KC, HL 94...
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Mmmm, that's a strange one.....my thoughts are that something in the gearbox or blades is heating up and binding or the engine is past it and not making enough power to reciprocate the blades. Have you kept the gearbox filled with grease on ALL the greasing points? After using the machine, does any part of the trimmer blade or gearbox feel very hot to the touch? When starting from hot, does the machine start easily and does it feel "punchy" when pulling over? It is probably either the blades seizing (common after a lot of conifer resin build up) or the gearbox has lack of grease and a bearing is getting hot. How did you test the blades are free and when cold, does the machine cut with normal power? We may still have a simple carb issue. When hot, is the machine totally locked up with no blade reciprocation? Can you move the blades at all either by blipping the throttle or manually....with the machine OFF!!!
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Not very hidden agenda to get more and more state bale outs...
spudulike replied to Squaredy's topic in General chat
Free wood...... before getting in to the chainsaw business and knowing a few arb types, I would drag fallen boughs out of country lane ditches - my ethic was not to cross the field boundary but take it from road side - this is the sort of stuff that would fall on the road and be dragged to one side, generally in to a ditch. This was interesting as the farmers would pass and 1) thank me for clearing the ditch and 2) offer me access to a field where they wanted to clear a fallen tree or bough....had a lot of decent Oak that way. One simple thing to oil the process - a pack of beers for their kindness. Always worked for me. The other thing - be neat and never leave a mess after the process. -
Has anybody else noticed this on the roads lately?
spudulike replied to spudulike's topic in The Lounge
That reminds me, I was going up the fast lane of the M6 around Stoke a few years back all fairly legal as I could see a cop car around 1/4 mile ahead, I saw in my mirrors a car that had sped right up my jacksy and was pushing to get past, I gave it a short while then pulled over around 100yds away from the cop car, he puts his foot down, speeds past the patrol car but only got the naughty boy wagging of the finger but it made me chuckle....silly sod! -
I'm more of a bartering man and have reduced or done servicing of kit for free but let the guys shifting the timber off the van get a drink out of it as well. That way the owner and the lads doing the heavy lifting both benefit. Some Joe on the street perhaps has less to offer and has higher expectations!
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Not very hidden agenda to get more and more state bale outs...
spudulike replied to Squaredy's topic in General chat
Your life sounds a bit like mine, I learnt at 18 that there was no easy ride, 25% of the company I worked for were made redundant so....I worked hard, got in to a position where I was the "go to bloke" and learnt how to be pretty indispensable and guess what, I got more money, more responsibility and introduced solid improvement ideas that increased productivity and lowered scrap year on year. In return, I got decent wage rises, decent pension and working conditions. This and Aesops fable of the grasshopper and the ant has seen me good over the years! I love a good fable! -
Has anybody else noticed this on the roads lately?
spudulike replied to spudulike's topic in The Lounge
No GoPro footage otherwise I would have played it back and sent it off but if the cops don't investigate when you lose £10k of tools, I am not sure it would have any effect unless the bozo killed someone just down the road. I just put this up for conversation as I was pretty shocked by this ijut and wondered how others felt.....perhaps some drive after a spliff and it may now make them think twice or am I naive....no need to answer that! -
If it is a not a pole trimmer, I am not sure how you know the blades are free unless I guess you push the teeth together and they move. It could be a sheared clutch, if it is, the engine will rev up freely and the blades won't move. It could be the clutch has rusted closed and this would exhibit the same as above. It could be a piece of busted metal/bearing between the gears. It could be a seized or damaged bearing. The above two faults would allow the engine to idle but on revving, the machine will bog down and not pick up. In short, strip the blades off and check they freely reciprocate and then check the gearbox out. Gearbox parts can be very expensive so check them and make sure you find the part that has failed.
