spudulike

Yes, Amsoil is designed to work 100:1 and they used to run a pretty saucy Supercat at Oulton broad....V6 Mercury...very nice and was sponsored by Lowestoft football team..........

Lastly, in cases like this, I usually remove the clutch/drum and flywheel, remove the spark plug and try to turn the engine over with my fingers by turning the flywheel nut screwed on to the crank. Doing this proves that the issue is engine related and is not to do with screws stuck behind flywheels or clutch issues etc. Where the engine locks can also tell what is up with the saw....typically TDC if a piece of ring or circlip is stuck in the piston crown etc.

One of the guys said..."can you turn the engine over freely for one complete revolution once free". This is a very good question as it shows you if the saw has a problem at a specific point of the engines stroke. If the engine is able to turn over freely for a few revolutions then the problem, most likely, lays with the recoil cover. It is possible a circlip or ring has failed and the bits are loose in the engine causing it to lock up intermittently but spinning the engine over by hand in different positions will prove that.

I still am but it is time to change the priorities. I will still do a bit but as I said, it will be for a bit of wood for the burner rather than as a commercial enterprise.

Ok think the OP answered the question in his post...probably people with no knowledge trying to start the machine and flooding it. Fergusons start procedure is fine, if the saw is lacking a bit of compression, I wouldn't use the decomp although the 550 starter pulley can be a bit fragile. If you suspect the saw has flooded, take the plug out, turn the saw upside down, pull it over hard a few times and see if droplets of fuel come out. This will dry a flooded saw out and just use the fast idle...choke lever out and up then clicked down to start!

I am out of the game now and doing very little in the way of repairs, retirement beckons and will just do a bit in the future for firewood for the burner!

I find the harder woods, especially oak, burn better with a bit of softwood present. Some of you that have no problem burning just hardwood may have multifuel griddles that allow air to enter the fire from underneath, this really helps combustion. The OP probably has just a bed of ash and perhaps, mostly oak in his logs. Try splitting a few logs in to much smaller 1-2" slats, that will help get it going.

Sounds like a governor, if the engine revs get too high, the flywheel causes the flap to move which in turn shuts off the carb like a choke would and lowers the revs. Lawnmowers seem to do this a lot. I know bugger all about your mower but if it is like most, make sure the float bowl is clear of debris and water and make sure the main jet is clear of dirt.

If the engineer looked at the CST info, he may have well found the fault code or seen the issue on the tests. He may well have not done the tests at all....the read out is often of no use at all but you can sometimes get reasonable info out of it if you know where to look....it certainly isn't like a cars OBD2 connector!

Part of the CST test is a "Throttle Open" and "Throttle Closed", if ADW is correct, the test should register an issue on this part of the test. He does know a little about Husqvarnas

Best to give them a post code, an address, what three words, a map co-ordinate, all these things will help people find you. If you don't want people to find you, I find a silver foil hat like the one below will help! This isn't me by the way!!

It would be interesting to see the CST download the dealer got from the machine. Not seen one doing this sort of thing before and always difficult to diagnose without any background info as to how this running issue started i.e......after another issue, after a service, just started happening etc. The carb H&L settings from this download would be of interest from this download. I would normally go through a service and see if it still happens although it does seem a strange one. Things to check...the air filter is 100% clean...some wash in water and the scum blocks the open areas...get some solvent on it and clean the open areas with a compressor airline. Change the spark plug...do check the colour as it will give decent info...make sure it is a resistive plug of the correct type. Strip the carb checking the gauze strainer is clear and the metering diaphragm is good and not distorted...seen this on 540XPTs. Reassemble and try again. What did the dealer do? It may be a dodgy coil but I would usually use the CST info and normal diagnostics to find the issue. Does the saw have good compression and start cleanly from cold and hot?

Best get the breather cleaned or replaced as the saw will have a risk of under fuelling if there is a vacuum in the fuel tank and the potential to seize. It is a relatively simple thing to repair or clean and not sure why any repairer wouldn't do so.

It very much depends on the time you are traveling, morning or evening rush hour will be murder, after 9.30 until 3.30 will be fine. Fridays are generally lighter traffic but are murder after 2.30. I did that section of the M25 regularly and it is M25 and A3...just pick your times!!

Yup, clean your crack with brake cleaner...wipes are for wimps!

Saw Rocket Ron racing in a British GP at Donnington, led on the first lap and lost laps through the race.☹️

Yup, had it on a 009....quite a shock and needed lots of grease and tweezers to rebuild it.

Nice...bit of a rare one. I use a bicycle pump on my old gauge for big leaks as per you have found out, some leaks need a lot of air to diagnose where they are coming from.

I used to hold low value...under £15 spares that I knew I would use...MS200T parts and MS 201Ts especially as I had good churn on them and I would use them regularly. Other parts, especially the more expensive ones were purchased as I needed them. I regularly got calls promising the saw in yesterday and ended up with parts ordered in and the saw never materialized. I use L&S for most parts as they hold good stock and the parts they don't have, they get in PDQ and advise regularly on big issue items so you know they are doing their best. No need to get excited, just be a regular buyer and build up a two way relationship with the supplier and all will be good.....you can't expect suppliers to have many slower moving parts on the shelf as it costs the business on the bottom line.

Fetch the comfy chair!!

That is good!

My brother purchased one and think it had a 16" 1.6mm chain and it was super boggy and slow......you needed a calendar to time a cut! 1.3mm and preferably semi chisel 14" bar would be my choice and don't know what they come fitted with but this is my opinion on cutting gear.

As above, pretty light, do the job, relatively simple and good spares coverage....and good residual prices if he needs to sell again. Make sure it has a 1.3mm gauge chain on a 12-14" bar as on a 1.6mm chain or longer bar 16 - 18", it will be gutless.

I think you have hit the nail on the head, I started on bikes albeit 40 years ago and it stays with you even after years of just driving cars.....the "whats round the corner", "hitting the apex", the..."driver is lost and is likely to", the..."life saver looking over the right shoulder".....basically seeing what is going to happen rather than reacting to it happening. A dodgy driver when on two wheels can be death rather than a bent wing or panel so you have a sixth sense and see these things. Oh....my wife's hairdresser had a client who had a BMW crashing through a garden wall, ending up in her front garden....copper drove past looking and just carried on...the bloke got out of his car, said he had been off the booze for 8 months, said he had a blow out, got back in the car and drove off.....he did get in touch later...I guess when he was sober! You couldn't make it up....what exactly do the local constabulary do now

Sorry, you are two years too late, I had one but fixed it with a Hiway pot and piston.....same issue as yours, leaking seals!