spudulike

Perhaps get a pic or two up so ADW can advise, he knows a little bit about Husqvarnas and ignition units cost a bit so an incorrect one would be bad news. I second not using aftermarket ignition units. At best they can be iffy!

I do like it when we have had a success and get some appreciation back. There is a wealth of info between us and it is good to know we have made a difference.

Not sure where the OP has gone....not got much feedback on our various suggestions........never mind, smile and move on

Those push in breathers can go open and start leaking. Just take the filler cap off when the tank is empty, push a bit of petrol pipe against the breather hole and suck and blow and if it flows both ways, punch it in to the tank, shake it out and push in another one. If the oil tank only leaks when full then it may be the breather. If it leaks right down to the bottom then a leaking oil pump, crack, oil pump seal etc can be suspected.

You are probably right, it was just a random thought and my own feeling on this one is that it is probably something pretty silly. Unfortunately I have been here before, someone with a loose bar that wouldn't clamp up. He had measured everything and technically, his measurements and other info proved that what he was experiencing was impossible. After around 6 pages of thread....we found his measurements had been made with the famous elastic measurement device!!! I had walked out after page 3

One thought is that perhaps the saw has been fitted with a 1.6mm gauge bar and full chisel chain....it may explain the lack of power. Perhaps some images of the laser etched part of the bar that lists the pitch gauge and drive links and a pic of the chain my give us some clues.

Firstly, I have never come across a "Stihl 213" must be a new model The lack of power may just be that the saw can be put under more load when cutting downward than when doing an up cut. Someone else mentioned that a downward cut may stress components such as impulse lines, throttle rods and inlet manifolds BUT....a two year old saw....it should be pretty fresh but it is possible. I am ruling out bar/chain wear as the components are new and if correct/fitted correctly, should cause no issue. I am assuming the saw is a MS231 so it may be related to the throttle rod and its ability to open the carb properly, I have seen issues with MS241s like this. Other than this, it makes little sense.

Yup, seen MS181 oil tanks stained red by that! And the list goes on.

In short, if anyone believes that using more oil in the fuel will cause the machine to seize....fill your boots, go for a 15:1 mix fuel to oil and try to rev the saw up flat out. It will smoke like feck and rev poorly. Anyone who has been in the repair game a while has had that homeowner saw come in that isn't revving and smoking like mad. The fuel is drained and comes out the colour of cherryade....."oh yes, I was told 25:1 but I mix in a little bit more" is the owners response. Try it, fill your boots....a LEAN mix is too much AIR to FUEL mix caused by carb setting or air leak! Fuel = OIL and Petrol.

I think Mrs Spud may have something to say about that

How about established members looking for free firewood? I always like a bit of firewood dropped off but I barter with a bit of fixing up kit or porting so I guess it isn't free but works for most.

Never heard that one...perhaps the top cover?

Pretty much every 880/088 I have brought back to life has been because it had been stored with half a tank of fuel for a few months and then used without refuelling. The oil in the fuel had been degraded over the storage period and using the saw again without fresh fuel was enough to seize it. Most owners were unaware that doing this was wrong and that the 2T oil was being degraded over time. The other things that can do it...Air leak - not had this issue and the saw construction seems pretty good in this area, Carb High speed setting - I usually set this pretty safely just because these saws do very long cuts in the most extreme way with the longest bars so heat build up is much more likely. I believe there are two 880 carb types with 1000rpm difference on the high speed setting. The carb should be serviced to make sure it can deliver the correct fuel and a new air filter should be fitted. Other than this, the chain oiler arm on 880s have a tendency to slip around the big nylon gear and can result in owners thinking their saw isn't pulling correctly. I have done enough 880s to know this is a "go to" part to check on a service. The rest of the saw is pretty bullet proof.

That's a name from the past - Webasto used to make those full roof vinyl sunroofs back in the 60s and 70s.

The other possibility is a BIG G clamp, some support blocks to lift the cases off a bench and a thick bench top. It is possible to rest the cases on the blocks toward the edge of the bench and use the clamp on the underside of the bench with the other end on the crank end. I did make a rough rig once to do this before a kind gent sent over a clamp like ADW mentioned above. His offer is a nice one TBH, probably your best offer.....you may have to open the lower clamp feet a little to go over the big end part of the lobes!

Yes, that is the jobbie!!

All I can add is that the bird feeder needs straightening up!

Shame you aren't a bit closer and had thought you had already removed the parts and fitted new. Removing the seals...you can do that with a simple seal wrench once the crankshaft is out. Shifting the crankshaft is going to be difficult without the correct tool and clouting it with a copper mallet isn't that great. You need a big C crankshaft remover and they aren't cheap to purchase. I did a MS660 strip, split and rebuild on my "Whats on my bench" thread which shows you the process....it is on there somewhere. I guess one option is to remove the seals and flush the bearings out in situ with white spirit, WD40 and blow them through. It may work but the only issue is having to restrip the engine if it doesn't. It is an option in absence of the correct tools.

The only fella I know who is down near you.... Exeter is Gardenkit, he knows his onions but runs a business so may not have time to help you out. I would just do as I have said. Lets face it, if you have split the cases then doing the rest should be relatively easy. Just ask questions on here and follow the info given. I have used Leo in Greece for Meteor pistons, he is fine. The Leeds fella...I know of him as he asked me to port cylinders for him but didn't much care his approach..... up to you who you want to listen to. If that saw was sitting on my bench, I would have got it going just as I have explained. It is a big pity it has had the ingress of grot in to the main bearings otherwise this would have been a really simple job. The cylinder will be fine. What usually kills them is when you get scores running up and down the bore caused by busted rings or circlips or the plated surface being ripped off. Yours looks relatively lightly seized and getting rid of the transfer and breaking the glaze in the bore will give you a decent base for sorting it.

OK....... I have done a few of these big bangers, loads of 660s, 395s etc and brought back many saws with similar cylinders and often worse. The cylinder doesn't look too bad in my book...sorry chaps but that is my opinion based on experience and reusing the OEM cylinder is always best if it is possible...read on- I would clean the bore up with a light abrading with 400 grit paper and then apply brake cleaner to degrease. You then use caustic soda (Sodium Hydroxide), brick cleaner HCL or something similar. Any fluid that eats aluminium will do. Apply it and watch the streaks on the cylinder fizz. Once it stops, clean with a cloth, abrade and do the above again. Once the bore is clean, I hone the bore with a three legged hone...just lightly, some use ball hones but they are relatively expensive. Once this is done, run a diamond file around the exhaust port edge and lightly rub with a bit of wet and dry.....just to make a nice job. After this, the bore should be smooth and you should not feel any high point with your fingertip. Visually, you should see where the hone has been but don't worry if it doesn't look perfect, those black marks are often difficult to remove completely. Fit your new piston - get the direction right...arrow points to the exhaust port...Meteor....excellent choice. Pressure and vac test - this is damn difficult with the sprung muffler seal if it is of this type but it can be done. Assemble the saw, tune the carb and keep reasonably under the max spec...1.0 - 1.5k is safe and gives the engine a fine chance. Use it hard but not for too long cuts. You want those rough surfaces to bed in quickly whilst they are rough but not generate too much heat. If you do this, you should end up with a top job and with minimal costs....that's why I was always so busy!! I did have a 460 I rebuilt fail after 4 years....the owner dropped a tree on it.....made me smile....the rest are probably still out there working.

Never heard of a "HEIC" image file, what is wrong with JPEG, BMP etc? In short...I can't open it. Shame you have had to split the saw as it makes the repair much more expensive. Was the saw stored with the cylinder off? If so, the crankcase mouth should have been stuffed with clean rags. The 880 cylinders are generally pretty tough and have usually managed to get the transfer off, hone and repair with a new piston. In short...you could have probably got away with a cylinder clean/hone, fitting a new piston, pressure and vacuum checks, carb tune and bingo, working saw for the cost of a new piston and some time. Done this a fair few times, the usual culprit for the damage is the saw being stored with fuel in it which degrades over time and then it is used which seizes the saw.

Hyway kit is generally pretty good and is my second aftermarket choice after Meteor! As Mr Pleasant said much earlier on, make sure the piston is shot, make sure the cylinder is OK, make sure you test the saw so you know the rest of it is OK when you fit the piston so it doesn't go the same way.

Yes, I know, I have done the job many times

So the trimmer has a splined shaft and the Stihl has a square shaft. I am assuming both outer poles of each machine are the same outer diameter? If they are AND the Maruyama is JUST going to be used with this Stihl head, you will need to convert the splined shaft to be a square one so if oversize, grind new flats on it and if under size, build the shaft diameter up with braze or weld then grind it down to match the stihl shaft. I guess you may be able to do something with replacing the complete shaft and epoxying/welding it in to the powerhead drive somehow but anything you do will have complications and be a compromise. Can't you get a splined saw head to fit...I used to fit cheap Chinese trimmer heads on to Husqvarna 325s as the OEM parts were around £300. The one I sold to my ex neighbour was doing stirling service around 8 years on! You may find one of these Ryobi or Chinese clone heads may fit.

I have done a few of these and the thing that baffles me is that the fuel filter and the carb are both of them. It is most likely not enough fuel at high speed so.....have you set the carb up? ....either of them as I don't think your old carb probably had much wrong with it. There are two adjustments on the carb, the obvious one is the L (low speed control) the one on the top in the middle of the barrel adjusts the height of the high speed needle on the slide valve or barrel valve. Either may bring your 94 back in to life but worth trying the low speed first as it is easier - 1/4 turn counterclockwise and if that doesn't improve it, give the one on the top of the carb the same tweak and it should work. You will need the Stihl hexagonal adjuster driver to do the adjustments. I just hope you didn't pay someone to not fix it!!