spudulike

I would be more concerned that your ear defenders may need upgrading!

The excess oil in the bore will usually give insanely higher compression as it seals the piston to bore nicely. I take it the piston was the correct diameter?

Don't, it is worse than going back to a non ported saw!!

Yup, the Nill Rate Band on inheritance is currently £325K and if the "main residence"is left, you have a further NRB of £175k on the property. This is per parent so if you lose your Mother and her assets go to your Father, the NRBs are parked until the last parent dies meaning £325k x2 plus £175k x2 or £1m before you pay inheritance tax. If the parent goes in to a care home, the £175k NRB is still applicable if the sale of the main residence makes up a portion of the inheritance. The long and short is that each parent has a NRB of £500k so you can inherit up to that from each parent before inheritance tax cuts in.....currently!

Doh

We had an ornamental plum and it put out suckers like that all over the grass. Drill the stump, put sodium chlorate in the holes and plug them with a bit of twig. That should do it.

I think that I will use my own generated food waste compost for seedlings next year judging by this black fibrous shyte. This reminds my of when the WEE regulations banned lead in solder. The lead free replacement looked like solder but it made my attempts of soldering look like utter muppetry and I have been using a soldering iron since my early teens! I then managed to get hold of three decent size reels of flux cored lead solder and they should see me out...hurrah!

Nothing on eBay, perhaps someone on here has a scrapper Pre Mtronic MS261 - must be a fair few out there judging by the clutch bearing issues with this model.

That helps enormously....and no sarcasm this time..... interesting, some muppet has fitted a Mtronic flywheel on a 2012 machine....no wonder it isn't liking it! On Chris's machine you can see the Mtronic connector on the coil. The flywheel must be wrong as long as Chris's machine hasn't been messed with. So, you need an old flywheel and hopefully you still have the old coil although the aftermarket one may work with the correct flywheel. Good thing I said check the flywheel is correct!

Keep an eye on ebay, you may get a second hand one for £40 if lucky.

That's not THE 660 is it?

Must be a Stihl 066 or MS660.....a bullet proof saw if it is. Never found anything that is much wrong with them, a solid work tool with no real weak areas.

In addition to the above, I would also ask L&S to check that your flywheel is for the NON Mtronic model. It is possible that someone has fitted the Mtronic flywheel on it.

It is really difficult to tell, It would be unusual for someone to change the flywheel as it isn't the easiest of things to remove. I would say that the coil failed or someone replaced it with some aftermarket coil that either isn't the correct one or is faulty. I once swapped out one on a strimmer and had a similar result and got a aftermarket coil but it was faulty and found the spark was around 180 degrees out. Started and run well with the correct OEM coil fitted. I have pretty much drawn a blank on your flywheel part code bar this - https://www.zeichnung.ersatzteil-service.de/zeichnung-datenbank/1000293.pdf How is your German? This appears to list coils 1141 400 1302 & 1141 400 4702 but can't guarantee they would work but guess one or both will. Personally I would phone a decent parts suppler like L&S, state the flywheel number and see if they can phone Stihl UK and get the correct coil part code for your saw. They purchase direct from Stihl so can call on them for info like this. One positive is that it looks like the crankshaft hasn't changed so that means if the correct coil for the flywheel is found, it should work. BTW, L&S have been my supplier for around 10 years and always have been 100% in all my dealings with them. Let us know how you get on.

Replaced loads of them in my time. Not one of Stihls finest designs.

I reckon you probably have a Flywheel part code - 1141 400 1200 If so, you need a coil part - 1141 400 1302 Post your flywheel part code when you have it if it isn't this - do you have your existing coil part code?

Yup, it appears to be talked about more on motorcycle and scooter sites so very possibly...MZ, that takes me back.

The backfiring is almost definitely down to incorrect ignition timing. This would usually be down to a sheared flywheel key and the flywheel moving on the crankshaft so the ignition timing happens at the wrong time. You say you checked the key, was this a real good check as it would be the most likely cause. If it isn't this, it is more than likely that you either have the wrong coil or flywheel on the machine. Seeing as the coil has been replaced, it is most probable that the coil isn't the right one. There have been five types of flywheel for this machine and probably a fair few coils. The reverse running of a two stroke is something of legend - not seen one myself, ever.

Unless you have play in the main bearings, a shot big end or damaged crankcases, you should avoid stripping the bottom end as it is a relatively complex procedure, needs splitters to do the job properly and isn't for the inexperienced.

There should be a silicone sealing sleeve that pushes in to the cylinder and that bit you have marked pushes in to this. This part can split and it is usually best to replace. I have used nitryle fuel pipe rather than the silicone part as it works, is far cheaper and is stronger although silicone does have a higher temperature ceiling - choice is yours. You can seal with a smear of liquid gasket just don't use too much and block the impulse. The rubber intake manifold can sometimes leak as well and may benefit from a smear of liquid gasket or replacement. Make sure you put plenty of WD40 on your clutch if it was still in place when you "bathed" it.

To back up my earlier statement, all top handle saws that I had in had the internal cover taken off the clutch cover, the components inspected, the shyte blown out and reassembled. I then tested the brake by snapping it on at near full throttle. You can tell if a brake is clogged as the actuation note is dull if the mechanism is bunged up and it has a much crisper note if it is clean. The other test I did specifically on the MS201 was to actuate the chain brake on each end of the brake guard. I had a few that were difficult to actuate on the end nearest the recoil cover down to wear and tear. The top handle saw is THE one bit of kit that if it malfunctions, you are very unlikely to have support that can get to you easily being up a tree. A bad cut in the wrong place and a few minutes will see you bleeding out and dead. And THAT is why I always ensured the top handled saws always had a chain catcher and the side cover/brake mechanism was checked, cleaned and serviced.

Some on here have used a fella with username "Crocky". I can't personally recommend him as I don't know him but others have.

Just clean it as part of a regular maintenance regime after all, it is a safety device!

My understanding is that the 625 was an open transfer port version of the 630 with both pretty much sharing the same engine parts. I am sure ADW will confirm as he has a few years on me🙂

You can wake these older machines up quite considerably. I used to find that they needed a good going over first as their crank seals, AV mounts, carb parts, pressure/vac test and many other parts need checking before thinking about tuning work. BTW, I am pretty much out of the game now and am only doing a little local work if it presents itself.