spudulike

Mmm a Church Group....so, where do you go...a forum that many arb types, farmers, forestry and grounds maintenance people frequent or the local church to meet 75-90 year olds who go to meet other people for a bit of company and a natter

That's easy, the less people on the forum, the more important he would seem! I think the lad has given up and gone on Freecycle by now and probably had a more positive response!

And Google says 208 miles and 4hrs 16mins travel time - makes the pat on the back a nicer sentiment! I think an offer more local to Bishop Auckland is being asked for but would love it if he was a truck driver doing local trips to Angus!

So...a guy wants a bit of firewood and....not for FREE, he is happy to offer a bit of work for it. That to me is a bit of a breath of fresh air and some of the answers on here are as Mike says Twatish!!! Me...tomorrow I am porting and repairing another saw, I took a couple of cubes of firewood in part payment and is something I have done many times in the past. I am old school and repay favours and always work for something that works for both parties. I once rebuilt a MS200T charging one load of firewood for a guy that had been robbed of most of his kit and he didn't have much but the van and a load of wood left! What do I do...tell him £££ only or help the fella out and keep my stock of firewood topped up!My choice and how I rock. For all we know, the OP may have other skills or services he may offer, who knows but at least offering a bit of help for a bit of firewood is better than taking it and repaying nothing. If a few others had similar ethics, this site may be a better place!

Very difficult to tell. Do you use the decomp valve? If you do...don't and see if it helps. My thinking is: - 1) Compression may have backed off and being hot makes it worse...hence the decomp question above. 2) The orange air filter is blocked and the AT unit is leaning down the mix to compensate for the air filter condition making it difficult to start....this comes back to ADWs unanswered question about orange air filters. 3) At 7 years, the carb pump gasket may have pierced pump flaps, the gauze strainer may be partially blocked or the metering diaphragm may be saggy causing issues. It is worth changing the spark plug as it is easy, cheap and at least it takes the plug off the list of unknowns.

Someone else that follows my principles in making it work for both parties....call it bartering and good to see...any takers?

A?

Oh ****************...yup...CLOCKWISE......damn...too many chainsaw clutches and overthinking....my mistake, I know what I meant in defence

The world is full of idiots, to make things clear, YOU NEED TO EXPRESS YOUR INSTRUCTIONS CLEARLY!!! Most times.....that doesn't work either!!

The sweep probably has a brush with a flippin big wooden boss that won't fit.....I use one with a twisted wire core and thick flexible nylon bristles because.....they go in to flexible liners, round corners and basically don't knacker anything up. It really isn't rocket science....it generally never really is, you just need to think about the issue and come up with the correct answer!! How about buying a set of rods and this brush and doing it yourself? Just.... 1) make sure you put a sheet around the fire opening to stop the dust. 2) Keep turning the rods ANTICLOCKWISE otherwise the head will come off!!! 400mm (16") Spiral Chimney Brush 1/2" Thread - Radmore & Tucker WWW.RADMORETUCKER.CO.UK Spiral chimney brush for use in chimney stacks. 400mm (16") diameter. 1/2" thread. Our spiral chimney brushes are one ended allowing easier access through difficult bends. They are...

Just pull the plastic piece off the throttle rod and superglue it back but with it sticking further out against the throttle lever. The other option is to bend the throttle lever to give the same effect.

With the battery kit, you have two options, one is to strip, check and inspect and hope you get to the issue. The other is to plug it in to the Husqvarna CST system and hope that gives you an indication as to what is wrong.

I did exactly that, drilled a hole straight through and brazed both ends....has lasted 7 years+ so far!

That is the fuel line but check to see that is what yours looks like as this saw is a bit like the Ford Fiesta....it has been around many years in different guises!

I have checked and read the cylinder could be Mahle, Kolben Schmidt or Gilardoni....are there any marks on the cylinder? It may just be crap Chinese but have seen a 254 I owned have a Gilardoni cylinder on it and it wasn't that clear what it was!

I am hoping you sell chain as you may have overstocked if you don't

So, basically you need to grease your hole!!

Hi Chris...the 262XP is a particularly fine saw, one of THE saws to have come out of Sweden. Just because you can't fix it is down to your abillity and not down to the saws provenance. The top end marking - ADW will give us the run down after he has finished catching up with The Crown....Downton Abbey is a sore loss to him The top end may not be Mahle but there were some old Huskys using Gilardoni cylinders and pistons and they often keep their provenance secret. Anyway....the saw fires idles but wont rev out so....you have lack of fuel. This may be down to the carb setting so make sure the H&L screws are set to 1.25 turns out on each. The saw is old so do this...replace the fuel line and filter, strip the carb, check the gauze strainer if you haven't already...take it out and inspect, easy to miss scummed up open areas. Make sure the metering arm height is set correctly and that the gaskets and diaphragms are in the right order.....I know you know a reasonable amount so it is probably OK. It is worth getting some carb cleaner down the H&L screw holes as the high speed check valve may be sticky. Lastly...check the tank breather, I have known these block up with age. You usually need to undo the rear AV mounts, take the fuel cap off (empty the fuel tank), get some long nose pliers on the thin black pipe protruding in to the tank and push it out. You can test the breather with a Mityvac before doing this if you have one but these old Huskys often have breather issues - the little white "pill" in the breather assembly gets blocked and this causes the issues. Goodluck

You had the wrong IPL, I think this is the one you are after: -

Sorry, pretty much retired now and stopped doing repairs. Try doing it yourself, it isn't a bad job!

Possibly a split fuel line from the symptoms although the "running on its side" may be shyte in the carb gauze strainer. Both would cause the lack of power on cutting.

Just use a puller, two or three leg and the end of the crank should have a recessed hole in the end to make it easier! The crank bearing surface may be damaged so worth inspecting as is the drum bearing surface.

I have used L&S for around 8 years now and have found their delivery charges to be pretty reasonable compared to others and better if you are ordering a number of items. You must remember if you getting a few low cost items that it may be best to get in a few other parts, perhaps some 2T oil, spare plugs, chains, a spare bar etc etc....they stock a large variety of items far in excess of just spare parts....I got a large polythene tray once for cleaning my BBQ grill....something like £4....whats not to like! Never had an issue with the parts of service and they have always sorted any queries PDQ!

Ding Dong old boy!!

When we say the engine has "Seized", technically...we mean that the engine has got that hot that the piston skirt has melted causing the engine to momentarily lock up and then as it cools, the engine is able to turn over but the issue is that the piston ring is now locked in its groove rather than being free to move and able to seal the cylinder bore so most of the compression is lost even though the engine can turn over. Get some pics up of the piston so we can see whats what. An air leak is unlikely to stop an engine starting unless it is bad enough to stop the lower crankcase making enough vacuum to pull in fuel vapour from the carb.