spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Sounds like the clutch springs need replacing.
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OK, the piston is toast. There is a lot on this site about cleaning the transfer off cylinder bores. It is usually a case of taking the cylinder off, clean the bore with brake cleaner and apply acid or alkali to eat the aluminium transfer off the bore. If you have a "Score" which is a line CUT through the cylinder plating then the cylinder is scrap. Most often, the transfer can be eaten away using chemical and then the oxide removed with wet and dry emery paper....200-400 grit is about right. I usually hone the bore after this but a good rub with a coarse grit paper will work - around the bore, not up and down. As others have said, you need to ensure the saw doesn't have an air leak or another issue as all your work could go south very quickly!
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Farmtec cylinders are as hard as a warm Camembert! The Hyway ones are much better and surprise surprise, they are more costly!
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I reckon that the score is deeper than you imagine and you won't have much compression once rebuilt but stand to be corrected - pics can be misleading!
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Have you checked the clutch drum bearing as this model is notorious for killing them. Other than that, make sure the clutch springs are OK but if the clutch drum bearing is knackered, make sure you check the oiler pinion arm is in good shape. The Mtronic ones were far better than the normal carb ones in regards to clutch bearing issues.
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If you are checking for holes/splits, you can plug the filter end and use a Mityvac or pop off gauge on the carb end to see if the pressure drops.
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I am not that familiar with this model although it looks like you can remove the carb, top cover and then remove the lower housing that sits over the rear handle. Sometimes you can remove the AV mount screws and any limit screws to pull the rear handle down to pull the fuel lines off.
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No, I have a favourite pair of pliers that I always use to great success.
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Who was it you work for
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It sounds like an air leak. You can sometimes tell if you are very used to adjusting carbs. What you find is that when you wind the L screw in, the revs don't die as the L screw is screwed right in. Typically, if the saw was running well and you notice that the saws idle has increased and that the top end revs are too high, it is an air leak. The chain spinning symptoms can sometimes be attributed to a broken clutch spring or dodgy sprocket bearing so worth considering. The bogging could be lack of fuel.....blocked carb strainer, holed pump diaphragm, holed fuel line or fuel filter. I hope you have some time!!
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Agree with that, I was just focusing on the damage. Looks like either the saw had a loose bit of debris in it or the big end is spitting out bearing cage white metal. Very strange that the bore is free of damage. What are the tops of the transfer ports like?
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List the symptoms....does it idle, does the saw pick up OK, does the saw rev out, is it able to cut with power but has issues etc. If you pull the starter, does it have the correct compression as it always has had?
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Oooh, thats a nice one, whats the bore like? The circlip failing is a common issue on cheap no brand pistons. Husqvarna use them and they always seem fine but the aftermarket ones are typically much softer, less springy and the tab can come off like yours. Best to fit new OEM or re-use the original ones.
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Ash makes a distinctive sound when you split it. It sort of sounds like using a cold chisel on bricks, a sort of metalic "Chink" noise. It is very easy to split as well....very satisfying.
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The 1.3mm bar & chain should liven up the saw by a decent amount but will not be as forgiving to abuse. The rest...as others have said.
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The one furthest to the right is secured by a small screw (No 25) and the other one has lugs around the bar stud holes that grip the bar studs. If your saw has a screw hole on the bar mount then fit part 30, if it doesn't, fit part 31. The later part will be the screw held plate, the earlier one will be the interference fit one. Plate 31 does have two lugs to support the bar and plate 30 does have a hole in it for the adjuster - the one you use through the hole in the clutch/sprocket cover.....as others have mentioned.
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That must be one indestructible saw if you couldn't slaughter it
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Doh
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OK, thanks for the responses, it is what I thought and didn't think varnish was a good option for the reasons given. He is a few grand in to the project so another £100 on a premium preserver won't be an issue and am sure he will seal it at least once a year after the initial 4 coats. I have used Barrettines on a fence and gate which turned out well but appreciate the advice so far.
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My brother is building a posh lodge..aka man cave and he has spent a lot of dosh on nice sweet Chestnut cladding. He wants to retain the natural colour of the wood rather to letting it silver over time. He mentioned he thought varnish was best, I thought, in my limited experience that a clear oil based preservative would be best. He is happy to regularly treat it and it is always easier to re-treat rather than rubbing off the old treatment. So...do any of you have experience of a preservative/ covering that will maintain the current colour of the wood?
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I believe I drove through Clutcj when I was driving around Croatia on holiday!
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That's diplomatic!! The libraries do sell off their books....lets hope.......
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Please help me identify this tree.
spudulike replied to inda1298's topic in Tree Identification pictures
I thought the knobbly bits looked like beech. I have probably lost you all on my technical terms -
Aw crap, here we go again, the more oil, leaner running rubbish. Not being personal but it is utter tosh!!!
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Oh dear, he has been in his shed again Good find!!!
