spudulike

Steer well clear, I had one and as you fixed one bit, another part failed....they are turd! It was one of three and sold the lot for £45 on ebay..utter crap saws. You are far better getting a MS181 or Husky 135 or that type of model or if you are lucky, a Stihl 026 in serviceable condition. At least, with those machines, you can get spares for them and even if they have aftermarket parts on them, you can swap them out for decent OEM parts plus you may get lucky with a decent one. Typical decent machines Husky - 345, 350, 346, 254, 135 etc Stihl - 023, 024, 026 (and MS equivalents) You may get lucky on a decent Dolmar, Echo or Makita as the general public don't know the brands but they are at least decent developed & manufactured machine.

Mmmm aftermarket...some are good, my blower is testament to that and some are far less then good. Up to you if you send it back or see if it has a blockage somewhere.

As ADW says, check out the tank breather. I had one in recently where someone had fitted the incorrect parts and blocked the tank breather correctly. Other than that - clean the air filter, the orange ones get blocked very quickly and this makes the AT lean up the mixture to a point the saw is running fairly lean. The only way is non water fluid and an air line. WD40, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, fuel etc. These saws can suffer from worn pistons and the low compression can cause these issues. You usually can tell how good the compression is by pulling the saw over slowly and feeling the pull on the handle. Other than that, the gauze strainer is always a favourite to check out.

What exactly is "a new carb" Your symptoms are of the carb not delivering enough fuel so the carb is pulling fuel through on full choke enough to fire and then the revs increase because of lack of fuel and if you open the throttle, lack of fuel, kills the engine. If the L speed circuit was OK, the machine would idle, especially on a richer setting. If the H speed circuit was OK, the saw would rev flat out but die on idle. It sounds like a blockage in the supply of fuel or the carb isn't pumping enough up from the tank. If the carb is a brand new OEM Walbro then check that fuel line, tank breather and fuel filter again. If the carb is secondhand, strip it down and check out the gaskets and diaphragms are in the right place and that the metering arm is set OK, the gauze strainer is unblocked etc etc...normal MO!

I have to say I love mustard, pickles and Horseradish. Mustard is applied to anything with Beef, pork or chicken. Not Lamb...my mum would turn in here grave but pies, meat, burgers, sausage rolls etc....mustard...lovely. I guess it is the yellow marmite.

Yup, one of our favourites.

Horseradish...top man, wheres the mustard though!

You can do a pressure and vacuum leak down test to test the thread and valve. I did find a lot would leak slightly but as I said, I ground them in with fine valve paste, cleaned, oiled and refitted them which worked for me.

Both!!

How about trying some B&Bs? Many ones now are pretty good with ensuite etc. I used to try to use Premier Inn as the rooms were decent and the breakfasts good but that was when they were around £80 a night. Used a few B&Bs and they were often good. Travelodges were cheap but never cheerful. Try Booking.com for prices and reviews.

Put some bubbly water around it and pull the engine over slowly and see if you get bubbles. The decomp can be re-ground in with grinding paste but clean it afterwards. It looks like it may have been leaking or just used a fair bit.

If the saw and carb have been apart then the carb will need to be retuned, especially as it was probably adjusted to accommodate the air leak.

On the L screw...get the saw running with an idle speed that will hold for long enough to adjust the carb but not so the chain spins or the idle seems too fast. Turn the L screw in and the idle should speed up and then the idle will begin to splutter and die, turn the screw back out, past the point when the revs were at their peak and then turn it out to a point the revs are less even and become very slightly uneven. Then adjust the idle speed to go with this. Adjust the H screw to around 1 1/4 and try it again. If the saw continues to cut out and play up....swap the carb out. I have no experience of aftermarket carbs for this particular saw but ADW may be able to help on the Walbro carb to replace the Zama one. Usually if you can't dial in a decent stable idle after a minute or two on a newly rebuilt carb, the thing is scrap.

Yup, the beast awakens

Doubting Thomas....sorry ADW will be happy. Well, I am glad my thoughts were correct and we have another success. Well done, good feeling when it pops and goes.

Just replaced 8 sealed units in my house. Pretty easy job with UPVC windows. Another skill I learnt after fitting my old house with replacement doors and windows including two patio doors, back and front door. All still perfectly sealed 18 years on.

There can be many reasons for this - slight to major flooding, poor compression, spark plug tracking, carb faulty, fuel line split etc etc....lets see what tomorrow gives. ADW may have to change his username!

That crud around the coil has been there a long time and from that, it must have run with it for quite a while so unless it has gone pop or the flywheel has come loose, it should work. Did you pull the flywheel? If not, check the flywheel to coil gap and the condition of the coil laminates that are closest to the flywheel - I have seen the flywheel clout these laminates and stop the coil sparking.

From now I will call you Thomas...Doubting Thomas! Have faith my friend! What can go wrong

We expect clouds of white smoke telling us it is running....or is that a new pope!

Flippin technology, when I was a boy, the abacus was cutting edge!!

From the little I know, holly is a very light, almost white wood in colour. It looks a bit like that way.

Just replace the gasket when possible. If it leaks badly, the exhaust gasses can make the cylinder too hot and it may seize. It fits between the muffler and heat shield. Glad it is back together and I am not talking bollocks like my wife thinks I do most of the time

I used to block the accelerator pump but it is possible to get your sealer pushed in to the check valve and sometimes, you can get strange running. I then worked out how to change the accelerator pump and then did this with a lot of success as many of my customers will vouch for getting a few years service out of the rebuilt carb. £10 repair against £130 for a new carb - whats not to like. Your choice on the sealing method. On the radial play on the bearings. If the bearing is a bit sloppy, the saw will run and probably not sound too bad - it may tap a bit on idle. The thing to check is that there is no pitting on the crank as the bearings run directly on it and any pitting will get worse very quickly. The leakage on a vac/pressure test when the bearing is worn, I mentioned earlier, is caused by the seal getting wear on it due to the sloppy crank. It is an indicator rather than 100% accurate. If you have rebuilt a few of these machines, you get to know the feeling of a worn bearing on the crankshaft. Fitting new bearings is relatively easy BUT - THE BEARINGS GO IN ONE WAY ONLY - PLASTIC RETAINER TO THE OUTSIDE. Is that clear

I think both ADW and I have been done by spell check.....ROYAL family.