spudulike

I reckon there is a reason it is listed in Penzance! "Any Chance of posting it"......"Yeah, no problem, just make it £1030 and all is good"....for the "seller" as he is a thieving scammer.

And their cylinders are some of the better ones out there although I did have some poor port casting on a 460 kit once but just reamed if out to make it work OK

It just depends if you can find a good workaround that doesn't cost a fortune but it is a big dilemma.

Tonight I will be burning some old rotten decking....it burns, it heats...it was free.

Not done a 585 muffler but to keep the noise down, always allow the exhaust port to fire against the baffle plate or front of the exhaust before exiting elsewhere. Forward facing outlets are just stupidly loud. Second tip, make your new outlet come from the muffler chamber closest to the cylinder so exhaust gases avoid having to go through the baffle first. Third tip - make sure the new outlet gases don't hit top covers or brake handles etc as they will melt!! Lastly, the type of outlet is down to your skill set. One of the simplest outlets is a slot louvre...a bit like the old Stihl 026 outlet cut through with a dremel diamond cut off disc then opened and shaped. If you can braze, silver solder or weld, you can go for a let in steel tube type...Stubby will be around soon with his ear bleeder 372!! Do all the thinking first and check twice, cut once....having the new lovely big pipe outlet foul the chain brake handle isn't a good look. Technically, all you are doing is trying to get improved flow without deafening the immediate population around you! Back pressure doesn't really kick in until you get in to expansion (tuned) pipes.

No, I have had some saws come in with non OEM cylinders and even after a base gasket delete and the compression being around 160psi, the saw was lethargic and in some cases pretty pathetic. Some I have had have been much worse than a well worn OEM kit and barely make 135psi with the base gasket in place. The main issue is that OEM cylinders have a very decent piston skirt to bore fit and the AM ones can be well off the mark. This means that although the ring to bore may seal the top of the piston well, when it is zinging up and down the bore at 12,000rpm and the saw is hot, the compression, torque and power all suffer from the lack of the cylinder and piston fitting each other well. The symptoms are a bit like comparing a saw fitted with a new OEM kit to a saw that has done 15 years on an OEM kit and the piston is pretty much shot. The plating on many aftermarket cylinders is like cheese....try a carbide burr one and you will see it first hand. I ended up fitting Meteor pistons and as these became difficult to find ( I once purchased 25pcs to see me through), I would fit a new OEM cylinder and piston just to get that 200psi and instant "new saw+" performance. Your issue now is to replicate that without the OEM parts....probably Meteor and Hyway would be my initial possibilities. Reducing squish and machining don't make up for poor piston to cylinder clearances in my book.

Our builder has been using a lot of stuff called "Celotex" which is a high performance insulator. I guess you could board the inside with the Celotex and plasterboard version. Have you tried a dehumidifier? Not one of those shyte ones but a proper one. We have two, a Mitsibushi one and a Meaco one both of which work really well...a cup full of water per two hours or so in damp weather.

I was always subtle and sympathetic to the original design in my muffler modding....unless doing work for forestry where setting off car alarms, seismic detectors and early nuclear early alert stations isn't an issue. Unfortunately, in other work, there is usually a winging neighbour/customer that like to complain about things like blood streaming from their ears.

Looks like a Viburnum to me, the flowering time is correct and the flower will be white with a tinge of pink in the bud. Tough buggers, bit like laurel!

It is a big shame that the OEM kit is now obsolete, using one of these and deleting the base gasket gives 200psi and a decent performance boost just by itself. I believe Hyway make the cylinders for Meteor, I have my own reasons for thinking this from my own experience, others may have their views. I used Meteor pistons on these machines and other models for years and they are probably the best option beyond the OEM part. Hyway probably make the best of the Chinese copies but would use the OEM circlips as they can be a bit hit and miss on most aftermarket kits. I don't think I ever had a machine in with any other kit than these that actually ran well. Significantly poor compression was present on most of them and it killed both torque and revs in the cut. I couldn't do much with the non OEM kit to make them work well and usually just informed the owner and went full OEM kit in the last few years of running my business.

Those older 372XPs port up really well, big gains to be had with what you have done and a suitable muffler mod.

I usually use two types of puller when splitting cases but as Chris says, your crank is knackered so beating the crap out of it won't cause you any issues. You may find a bit of warming up of the cases will help...an oven if all the plastic and rubber parts have been removed but only if it won't go without it. Make sure ALL the screws are removed, looking at an exploded diagram can help on this and never try to prise the cases apart or try doing it from the case cylinder opening as you will damage the mating surfaces or worse! It would be a good learning curve if it works out. One thing to also remember is to de-stress the bearings on reassembly. All they need is a couple of light wallops with a copper mallet on each end of the crank shaft and the crank rotation will go from spongy and slightly tight to nice and loose.

You can check for leakage by plugging the breather and purge lines then pumping air in through the fuel line with a Mityvac.

That is another muffler mod saw. For a relatively simple mod....not sticking a big outlet tube on the outside box...more to it than that, it sorts the cold start lag and gives the saw a decent boost in performance for not much money...I think it was probably around £60 if that was the only job done. Oh, if the saw had the issue with vertical running on idle, that would have been sorted as well. Glad you like it and it is giving good service...a nice discrete mod on these saws

Put some fuel in the tank, shake it about a bit and drain it out as that shyte has come from there. I used to do it through a fine filter to see when the tank is clean. It sometimes takes three purges to be clean. Make sure the fuel filter is also clean and in good shape. Another thing I always did if ever I found clag in the gauze strainer on a machine in for work on it.

Most sooted up glass is usually the owners inability to use the dampers correctly followed by burning wet wood. Stoves have their little foibles and you have to get to know them to get the best out of them. Shutting the dampers completely will initially give you heat and then sooted up glass.................. Wet wood....well why would you?

It shouldn't cause any issues and may give you a little more compression on a slightly damaged cylinder. I have done tests on a good cylinder and removing the lower ring caused no change to the compression reading - I guess you could just leave out the lower ring if you wanted less friction from the rings to bore!

Best just to stick a new OEM cylinder and piston on it and treat it as a winter project. The compression gauge may not like the step down fitting to attach to a machine with a 10mm plug, it usually knocks the reading down 20psi or so and the fact the machine is that small may add to the poor reading. I haven't tried measuring the compression on one of these saws. Usually pulling it over and inspecting the piston through the exhaust port does it for me.

Water sinks in petrol diesel so if your tank drains from the bottom, which I assume it does, drain the fuel in to a large clear bottle (or at least a couple of litres) and if the fuel looks milky, leave it for an hour and the fuel will clear and have water in the bottom of it. Like this.....(Pic Below) Also - a funnel with a piece of fine mesh in the bottom is a fab tool for shyte in the fuel!

I would ensure the bottom end is clear of any parts of the broken circlips and also check the exhaust. Check the main bearings are clear as best you can etc.

One thought - did you use your own fuel in these machines? I ask as I was working on an HL100 with no idle and the fuel had a lot of water in it. Did the usual - leaving it in a clear container and all the water sunk to the bottom!

It should go well if it is anything like the one I did for myself....and others. My 346 is my "go to saw", I was using it all day Monday ringing up a few tonnes of Ash and Pine...lovely saw, so punchy and revvy compared to most.

Correct and of course, I know that.

The larger housing companies will revert to acquiring land for building projects and then start building when the economy picks up again. It will be hard for smaller building companies that expected the gravy chain to continue for ever and have projects in process that may not sell very quickly when completed. Interest rates high - we had 14% when we purchased our first house!

I often found that good old fashion fault finding got most of the Husky AT machines running. One thing I always checked was that the air filter was clean by looking at it with a magnifying glass and a bright light. People often wash them or just blow the dust off so the open areas get blocked having the same effect as having the choke engaged. The 80 Micron ones do often get blocked. Other than that, check out the fuel filter, the gauze strainer, the pump diaphragm (flaps may be perforated), muffler spark arrestor, piston through exhaust port etc etc - you know the score.... The only time I reset the machine AT is if I had repaired a fault that the AT may have changed its settings to accommodate such as an air leak or shot piston etc. I never really found an AT reset helped anything as the system just adjusts to the condition of the engine and fuel system. Husqvarnas CST does give the current carb H&L settings which can help diagnostics but is no "silver bullet". It may be worth you having a dialogue with ADW....perhaps via PM, he knows a little about these machines