spudulike

But, technically this blower is four stroke as it has valves/camshaft and four strokes to make up a complete cycle. What you stick in the fuel tank doesn't denote what type of engine it is. Many customers of mine incorrectly think that Stihl 4T machines are two stroke just because you stick 2T fuel in them irrespective of the blat blat noise they make. Unfortunately, the OP saw "Four Stroke" and didn't contemplate the lack of oil filler etc. He just needs a few pointers as to what he does now.

Unfortunately, you won't be able to see the piston through the exhaust port as it is a four-stroke...sorry Openspace...... Also, if it is anything like the BR600 and most other Stihl 4T machines, they have built in decomp systems so the engine will feel pretty lacking of compression on the handle and in my experience, they only feel high on compression when the valve tappets need adjusting as the decomp system lifts the valves slightly on starting so the engine is easy to turn over and excessive tappet clearance messes this up. You could open up the tappet clearances and see if the compression feels strong or If you have two machines, a compression gauge could be used to measure the compression on both. Stihl 4T machines are sort of four stroke machines but they use 2 stroke mix to lubricate the moving parts usually lubricated by a wet sump (as in your car) or forced fed lubrication systems with oil coolers like you may find on some race engines. Running the machine on Aspen 4 may have damaged the main bearings, big end, small end, piston and any other bearing, bearing surface etc. It is almost impossible to say what has happened to this machine but the only positive is that the machine ran OK on Aspen 2 for 10 mins before failing so perhaps it isn't too serious so....all you need to do is check the machine has spark, fuel and compression. If it has and the spark is happening at the right time (ignition timing correct) it should run.

It will be a scam. I don't like the "HTTPS:/./.CMS" address I would think this should be more typically... HTTPS://www.cms............ so it may look convincing but don't believe that this will connect to any government dept. I don't think HMRC would be asking for your bank details like this, being self employed, you would have already set up your bank details with them so....if you want to lose your £££ then log on and give your bank details to some thieving scum. As someone else said, they just need one per thousand people and then take each for £1500 to be well in profit and doing very nicely.

As ADW said. In my experience, older machines like yours often suffer loss of compression so the feel of the compression on the starter handle is first thing to gauge. If poor then check out the piston, rings bore....probably a new piston will bring it back if it is bad but make sure the bore is in good shape. If you haven't got the CST then treat the saw like a normal non AT machine and you may well find the issue. On the carb...check the gauze strainer, the pump diaphragm and also check the metering diaphragm isn't bagged out of shape.

Sorry to hear that Duncan, hope you get it back in workable order.

If it looks deep, engage something called "reverse gear," turn around and find another route. A few years ago I blasted passed a flood sign saying to the wife "How bad can it be"....it was fecking bad as I hit what looked like the English Channel at 50mph and got it in to reverse PDQ before the water came in.

Yes, de-stress the main bearings before running it up but whomever fits them should do this.

With a lit stove, you can usually hear the roar of the air entering it when the dampers are opened so when the flue damper/dampers are closed, you should hear a big reduction in the induction noise. Is this happening on the stove?

Is this a new install or an existing one that has changed its burning characteristics? Logically, burning needs air and if you have plugged all the know air inputs, it must either be manufactured with a certain amount of air input outside of the controllable ones for "eco" reasons or the stove has a fault causing air to enter the stove where it shouldn't.

Good luck with it and thanks for the thanks.

I have just replaced the handle on my neighbours Ewell axe. It is a job that takes a reasonable amount of time but isn't too difficult if you are handy. The art is in making the part that fits in to the axe head as tight as it can be before splaying the end with a wedge to fix it in. I made a template of the axe head entrance out of card and then kept going until it snugly fitted up the complete formed end I was making. Anyway, it was a tight fit as I had to clump the head on with a 2lb lump hammer!! Have a go, I used a £15 handle off Amazon.

I did an Einhell hedge trimmer once, the gearbox had locked up. Turned the gears over backwards and it all freed up so handed it back fast and legged it. Great quality

Just looked at the carb pics again and, unless I am wrong, that check valve supplies the fuel to the high and low circuits from the look of it as there are no other jets present so blocking it would stop the machine running. Is it definitely a check valve? It does look like the type you get in a typical plastic purge bulb housing but not seen one like this but have spent the last 10 years avoiding them Do you think someone stuck a pin in it thinking it was a jet and fooked it?

If all else fails, you could try plugging the purge circuit so the carb can work without it if it is faulty. Perhaps a little gasket seal may do it so it can be removed if it doesn't work. It may make the machine harder to start but at least it would prove the point. Have you compared the good carb with this one? I know they are different carb manufacturers but they may operate in a similar way.

This is an interesting turn of events as if that check valve has been pushed in too far, it will most likely cut off the petrol feed to the thing. You could tap it through with a drift and then refit it so it is level with the lip you can see in the pic. If you are careful, you may be able to lever it out from inside the bore if it isn't too tight but I would knock it through if there is internal clearance to do so.

Yes, if you have done Stihls then it shouldn't be too bad. The stuffers make it a bit more difficult as the typical big "C" type splitter won't fit around the crank lobe but the bar mount splitter will still work OK.

Lip up Fatty...nothing personal: -

As always, much depends on your level of experience in doing this sort of thing. If you have had small engines stripped and fixed then it will probably be relatively easy but if it is a first time, it is going to be an "interesting learning curve".

Personally, I like a bit of Madness. My girl, it must be love etc, good ol songs in my book. One step beyond and Night boat to Cairo....all very Ska beat. This is coming from someone who would say rock is there main genre.

I take it the carb is off the 026? There is no purge or otherwise on the 026

And...the check valves I have removed are driven in to the main bore of the carb where they can be shaken out. The check valve is the brass bit!

Chip them up as they come and then bag the chippings to put on the flowerbeds as it is unlikely to compost down and with the dry periods we get in the summer, the chip keeps in the moisture. Perhaps chip, bag and sell back or take donations is the way forward. As someone else said -get a local paper and arb company involved and make a splash - all proceeds to a good cause will move it forward.

Looks a bit like Oak to me. If it has been sealed before, any attempt to stain it will only darken the areas where the seal has worn through - doorways and in front of sofas etc. If the floor has a reasonable thickness of veneer, you could sand it off or just try a slight stain on an area that doesn't show too much. You may get away with a good dose of white spirit, steel wool and elbow grease and then use a stain/oil mix as previously mentioned when dry.

Here is one but try 3 for a sanity check: - Our Aggregates Calculator helps you work out how much aggregate you need. WWW.PRIMARYAGGREGATES.CO.UK Type 1, 6F5, Shingles Sharp Sand, Building Sand, Ballast, whatever your requirements use our Aggregate Calculator to work out how much material you require.

Probably best to use an online calculator using the area and depth of MOT etc