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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. spudulike
    Personally, I like a bit of Madness. My girl, it must be love etc, good ol songs in my book. One step beyond and Night boat to Cairo....all very Ska beat. This is coming from someone who would say rock is there main genre.
  2. spudulike
    I take it the carb is off the 026? There is no purge or otherwise on the 026
  3. spudulike
    And...the check valves I have removed are driven in to the main bore of the carb where they can be shaken out. The check valve is the brass bit!
  4. spudulike
    Chip them up as they come and then bag the chippings to put on the flowerbeds as it is unlikely to compost down and with the dry periods we get in the summer, the chip keeps in the moisture. Perhaps chip, bag and sell back or take donations is the way forward. As someone else said -get a local paper and arb company involved and make a splash - all proceeds to a good cause will move it forward.
  5. spudulike
    Looks a bit like Oak to me. If it has been sealed before, any attempt to stain it will only darken the areas where the seal has worn through - doorways and in front of sofas etc. If the floor has a reasonable thickness of veneer, you could sand it off or just try a slight stain on an area that doesn't show too much. You may get away with a good dose of white spirit, steel wool and elbow grease and then use a stain/oil mix as previously mentioned when dry.
  6. spudulike
    Here is one but try 3 for a sanity check: - Our Aggregates Calculator helps you work out how much aggregate you need. WWW.PRIMARYAGGREGATES.CO.UK Type 1, 6F5, Shingles Sharp Sand, Building Sand, Ballast, whatever your requirements use our Aggregate Calculator to work out how much material you require.
  7. spudulike
    Probably best to use an online calculator using the area and depth of MOT etc
  8. spudulike
    No, please do keep on about the orange filters, they like to choke up the engine when not fully cleaned properly. A bit of a wipe or a sprinkle of water isn't good enough to clean the open areas. Spray with brake cleaner, WD40, carb cleaner or similar and blast with an air compressor and inspect afterwards with a magnifying glass and a bright light. The filters can be split in to two parts with the twist clips on the joint...it makes the job easier.
  9. spudulike
    A good draw also depends on the flue top being higher than the ridge of your roof and also higher than close surrounding buildings.
  10. spudulike
    I believe that this would be a one way valve. If you stick your mityvac on the actual breather assembly as pictured, does it flow both ways or during your tank test, did the air simply just escape around a loose breather assembly.
  11. spudulike
    Difficult to tell without looking at it and/or plugging it in but worth changing the plug, stripping and reassembling the carb inspecting the pump diaphragm for perforated flaps, pump diaphragm for sagging and the old gauze strainer for fine chip in it. Worth giving the air filter a damn good clean with oil based fluid and an air compressor and giving the fuel filter a good inspection or just replace it. If that doesn't do it, getting the local dealer to stick it on CST and looking at the carb settings may give you a clue.
  12. spudulike
    There are regulations on how long the flue should extend and depends on your roof line and neighbours if present. Chimneys and flues: Don't forget the neighbours! | LABC WWW.LABC.CO.UK
  13. spudulike
    If that was a Honey Locust, it would have loads of 5cm+ spikes sticking out of the trunk and branches. I had one in my back garden and trod on one of those spikes...bloody painful!
  14. spudulike
    Ours will burn with all the dampers closed and the damper in the flue closed...I am guessing the draught from our chimney is pretty strong and yours is non existent. Does it smoke back in to the room when you haven't had a fire for a few days?
  15. spudulike
    I know, I have a Stockton 8 and it works fine.
  16. spudulike
    It is the air control that allows air to be introduced through the holes in the back plate. Pushed in is off, out is air allowed in so you need it out. If it still smokes then the flue updraft is probably too low or possibly you may need to introduce air in to the room - try opening a window 5 mins before opening the door.
  17. spudulike
    Have you got a flue damper? If you don't know what that is - it is a circular disk in the metal flue above the stove. You can't see the metal disk but the control handle will be sticking out of the flue see pic....if you have one, make sure the control handle is vertical before opening the door. Other than that, you may need to open the damper below the stove (there is a slider damper under the entrance plate) and if that doesn't work, try opening all the front dampers and try that. If it still smokes, your flue draw is probably not sufficient.
  18. spudulike
    It is a powerful machine!!
  19. spudulike
    Lets hope so. One thing to check, if you haven't already, is the state of the piston through the exhaust port, make sure the exhaust port isn't coked up and check the exhaust isn't blocked. All may give rise to poor running.
  20. spudulike

    Jokes???

    spudulike replied to brownie1964's topic in The Lounge

    Is that something to do with that Greek dude that messed with geometry
  21. spudulike
    OK, that is good..all the gaskets in the correct order I hope? I don't know your skill set so worth asking as if the spacer gasket is in the incorrect place on the pump gasket or metering diaphragm, it will cock up the running. Try lifting the metering arm a little if you don't get any joy....worth a punt but if it floods, you have gone too far.
  22. spudulike
    Are you still pissing about with those hardened diaphragms? If so, it is no wonder the engine isn't liking it. The diaphragms need to flex in and out so they can keep a good charge of fuel in the diaphragm chamber and operate the needle valve when necessary. My old Zenoah strimmer was similar and now it has given me around 10 years excellent service. Just get on Ebay and get the cheapest kit as it will be better than the one you are probably trying to use......unless you have changed it. Is the needle arm at the right height?
  23. spudulike
    Put your glasses on and look closely. If that reveals no clues, try a few skilfully selected questions and if it is still a mystery.....waterboarding will most likely give you the answer!!
  24. spudulike
    Yes, she lives in London and you live in Norway
  25. spudulike
    The BIG question is...have you swapped out the fuel lines and fuel filter? The McCulloch alloy fuel filter caught me out once...it looked near new but was stuffed full of alloy oxide corrosion once I got it apart. Other than that, remove the H&L screws and get some cleaner sprayed down the holes. Try undoing the H&L screws 1/2 and then 1 turn to see if it kicks the machine in to life. Manufacturers often tune their machines on the side of lean to meet emissions and after a while, they run a bit lean. As always...make sure that the gauze strainer is new or clean. Remove it to check the thing as I once had one that had a scum in the open areas but it looked clean until I took it out. Lastly - don't discount the plug...if Chinese, junk it and replace with a known good one to see if it is faulty.

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