spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Then make sure you don't drill straight through as you may end up in the oil tank. It will be worth checking what is behind that hole if you do go too far. I guess I may be thinking of the 660. You may need to get a bottoming tap if your tap is a bit tapered as it will cope with the blind hole better and be aware that helicoils get longer on fitting.
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I don't think this is a blind hole....can you stick a thin screwdriver in the hole and test it to see if it is through or blind? I have done a few of these and think it is a through hole from memory. Just tap it out with the M5 helicoil tap (it is probably M6 and then turn in the helicoil. Use a decent quality tap, lubricate the tap, form a decent receiving hole and the helicoil just needs turning in and will be very strong if done correctly.
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Do it in late Autumn when it is cooler and wetter....I hope you have a big garden for that tree when it gets MUCH larger.
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Hylomar was the sealant recommended by Honda to seal their motorbike crankcases back in the day.
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Ding Dong....chipper as always!
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Nope but he does a nice spray job on them, can't recommend him enough!
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Just north of Stevenage. He is to Atco Cylinder Mowers what I am to chainsaws. A decent bloke in my book.
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I know a fella who can sharpen those cylinders on an Atco sharpener that gives the cutting blades a slight angle, does a nice job at a good price but...he will be well south of you.....did my Suffolk Colt and Atco Royale cylinders. The methodology you are talking about is the same for most cylinder machines, you adjust so the cylinder is off the anvil and then bring it down on both sides until it brushes the anvil. You then use paper to make sure it cuts the paper both sides....it will probably never be perfect but the better it is, the better the cut. This fella also grinds the anvil to ensure it is flat. Cylinder machines are for technicians....the rest use rotary mowers!
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I usually use Carplan red which goes up to 260 degC, at 399 this is fine. The base of the cylinder doesn't get that hot, the exhaust port does!
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Ah, it was my second suggestion - the old gauze strainer, glad it is fixed and working.
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Pretty rare for a bearing to fail in such a catastrophic way. I have seen it on 261s and 362s but that is just the way they are....or were when first released and for a few years after. On Husqvarnas, I reckon the outboard clutch makes changing the bearing more difficult and probably puts a bit more load on it and that makes them get a little wobbly over time. I have seen crank wear on old 346s and wobbly bearings on a number of machines just through lack of maintenance. I reckon it is one of those items that should be changed any time the drum or clutch springs are renewed. All machines are different but saws like the 346, 357, 550 and 560 need a little TLC whereas some are just bulletproof in this area. Over-tightening the chain can destroy them pretty fast.
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Fortunately I had the serial numbers.....we always put them on the invoices which has been useful when stolen.
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Pretty common on MS460s but not on much else in my experience.
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If you haven't got the serial numbers for the 200 and 560, I should have them.....just PM me with your name and postcode where I sent the machines to if you need them. Best I can do....right bastard when decent machines get thieved!
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Like I said, classic symptom of a broken clutch spring.
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Just set both screws to one turn out from fully in and see how that goes. In my experience, the H screw on a nicely run in 461 needs to be closer to 1.5 turns out to keep the revs where they should be. The springing back is more likely due to the sealing O ring. It may be better if you lightly lube the screws but it shouldn't matter to the running of the saw if minimal.
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Sounds like a broken clutch spring to me. Check all three and if one is broken, replace all three.
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All my solenoid issues have caused an idle that is too slow and causes the machine to either die on idle or just peter out on idle. Hope it fixes your issues and worth trying. If you pop the carb off to fit it, check out that gauze strainer...always a favourite to cock up an engine running correctly.
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Strange way of using the mower, my wife suggests that he has piles!! Glad the Webbs is up and running. All relatively alike in their own way. I have an Atco Royale a bit like that Ransomes, paint is shyte but the rest of it is built like a tank! just make sure all the drive chains are well lubed in chain oil each use but I guess not your concern now!
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Probably best to plug it in to CST and see what the carb and AT are doing. Possibly a bit of crud in the gauze strainer, possibly the diaphragms need replacing. Worth changing the fuel filter and also checking the piston through the exhaust port to make sure it is clean although Aspen should have avoided and nip ups. Probably best to PM ADW and see if he has time to look at it. It will be a postal job but he knows his stuff. Last thing to check are the clutch springs as if they are weak, that may be why the saw us stalling. Cleaning the air filter....must be an oil based fluid and a blast through with a compressor.
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There should be very little "in and out" movement. Sometimes, so little, it makes removing the circlip a big tight. The drum should have minimal wobble on it if you place a finger on either side of the drum and push alternately.
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Something isn't right if that is the case, perhaps the pinion has worn so the arms are sitting below the rim of the drum but something sounds to be out. I have only seen arms missing the drum on machines with significantly worn clutch bearings typically 261s and 362 Stihls.
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Two things to check, make sure the clutch drum and bearing are in good order as they do suffer a bit of the MS261 issues. If all OK, swap out the solenoid as this is likely to be the issue if the rest of the machine is in reasonable condition.
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OK, by cylinder, I mean the cutting cylinder not the drive roller ...just to clarify. Looking at your machine, it looks like the drive roller and the cylinder are engaged with the loose belt being tensioned by the way of a movable roller pushing on the belt to tension it...same as the drive roller in my Qualcast but my cutting cylinder is engaged with a centrifugal clutch which is different to yours. If either the cutting cylinder or drive roller are engaged all the time, you would normally back off the tensioning roller which looks like you have a slotted hole to facilitate this and if you can't, you need a longer drive belt which may be as you suspect, an incorrect belt. There may also be cable tension adjustment to control the drive on and off control as there is on my mower. .
