spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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OK, by cylinder, I mean the cutting cylinder not the drive roller ...just to clarify. Looking at your machine, it looks like the drive roller and the cylinder are engaged with the loose belt being tensioned by the way of a movable roller pushing on the belt to tension it...same as the drive roller in my Qualcast but my cutting cylinder is engaged with a centrifugal clutch which is different to yours. If either the cutting cylinder or drive roller are engaged all the time, you would normally back off the tensioning roller which looks like you have a slotted hole to facilitate this and if you can't, you need a longer drive belt which may be as you suspect, an incorrect belt. There may also be cable tension adjustment to control the drive on and off control as there is on my mower. .
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Faced with that, I would remove or loosen the belts and make sure the cylinder and the drive roller both turn easily. I would then tension the cylinder belt to see if the motor will spin it and then do the same with the roller. If an incorrect belt is fitted, the belt will slip round the pulleys so the drive can't drive either the cylinder if drive roller. On my Qualcast 17 ( bit like a Suffolk Colt) the tensioner is engaged to tighten the belt to get if to drive. The cylinder is in a centrifugal clutch. Not had a Webb machine in yet...Atco, Suffolk and Qualcast only.
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I think they call it learning. Some try and give up but other more tenacious types don't give up and keep going and learn for the next time, getting better all the time.
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Possibly knocked the spring out on fitting.
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Plum Crumble, the king of crumbles....with custard of course although you could add a blob of ice cream as well....nice!
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I use tote boxes with lids. They are nylon and pretty tough. Got 10 of them off eBay for £75 secondhand ...pretty good deal and most of my workshop is in them now and neatly stored on heavy duty racking. They are from Alibert and look like this: -
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I thought it had passed a pressure/vacuum test after the clutch side seal was replaced or did you cock up the fitting? The one on the flywheel side is generally, pretty reliable. Is it leaking badly as most of the time, small leaks....where you lose pressure or vacuum over a couple of minutes, don't really interfere with running...but, they DO need repairing as it will get worse and slightly old fuel or a carb set slightly lean may cause the saw to go pop.
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A bit high at 20 thou but not massively bad. If you have been rubbing small areas of the bore with wet and dry, you can cause small cavities that can kill the compression. You should be 150-170 PSI on a decent 372XP. You can drop the base gasket and seal with liquid gasket. It is a simple performance enhancement and you will maintain enough squish clearance. It won't sort the issue but it may make the saw usable.
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I was floundering to find something to post as this thread is a load of pollocks, just a load of carping on about fish...again. Reel it in lads...especially those with a chip on your shoulder.
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What does.."Petrol 220t replacement" mean? The 220t is battery with the common Stihl petrol top handles being the MS200t and the MS201..or the MS192 or MS194....or the MS150
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Looks like he has done a private deal as the listing has been pulled!
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Currently £1800.....that is bonkers...even by my standards of loopy!
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Having tea with Mendiplogs!
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Sometimes I can liken this forum to being in a pub and keeping well out of the way of the leery kid in the corner that has had a sherbet too many and is beginning to kick off.
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Makes sense to do so......
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Yes, the cases need splitting....good luck.
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I was just about to paste the same...a good offer from ADW!
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Gut the muffler and fix the thread. It will wake you up in a scary way!!
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Colour blind? That is clearly purple
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Looks no worse than some of the Travelodges I have stayed in! The immigrants are supposed to be escaping persecution, war or death so billeting up on this barge seems like a good alternative to that. Sure is better than my Grandfather had when he was holed up in a trench in France during WW1! If I had nothing and were escaping similar, I would gladly accept this as accommodation.
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Bugger me, I had to skip through those pics fast. I am not sure you are supposed to see things like that unless you are a surgeon but it should wake a few people up to not be complacent about their safety and use of Arb equipment. Good post and hope you get to a good place in time...bloody horrific and hats off the the people that saved your leg.
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Blimey, I guess I have to ask why? I can understand having one in a collection but this is a bit obsessional.
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That looks like a transfer cover so yes, it does matter and quite a bit as you may get an air leak in the engine if left. When you replace it, you may not be able to get the exact same type of security screw but be damn careful to fit a screw the correct length as if it is too long, you may punch a dent in to the cylinder. Check the depth with a vernier or simply a small screw driver and knock 3-4mm off for safety...you have been warned!
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And that is how you either learn that you can do this or learn that others are better at it than you!
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That's a strange one, it looks like fine dust has got in past the air filter and taken off the Nikasil but then larger particles have scored the piston. As Adw says, best make sure the mains haven't let loose causing the piston damage and would make sure the air filter is OK as the wear around the inlet port looks like finer particle damage.
