spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Fortunately, I never found myself in this position but I would take a part payment if the value of repairs including parts would push the repair bill above the market value of the saw especially if it was a new customer with no trading history. As I said, the majority of fellas and companies I worked with were decent and happy I had given value for money and returned the kit in good time and working as it should. I never had any major problem...this guy sounds a bit of a dick!
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Yup, the two are different, one is the "kickback" of the saw activating on the saw brake guard hitting your hand on the top handle, the "Inertia" brake is as in the vid, a dropping of the saw bar on to a lump of wood to activate the brake. My personal opinion is that the saws brake is most likely to activate under kick back so the guard will hit your hand and activate...etc. What brand of saw is it?
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Blimey, not that one again!!
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Just strip the kit down and give him a box of bits. He thinks he is clever so he will be able to fix it easy seeing you have identified the issues. What the hell did he expect to pay...£20 and a six pack of McEwan's export???
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The insurances I have seen in the past cover parts and not labour. No fun if the issue is a £5 seal in the gearbox that requires a full strip down.
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I used to get those in as well. In one case, I just reassembled it...no fault present!
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I was charging £50 per hour and was happy as I was pretty on the fault so fixed kit pretty efficiently and that was before the cost of living and inflation hike......porting Included. With what you have done, you should be £250+...he sounds like an ungrateful bugger...tell him to get a quote from the local dealer for the work you have done.
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You can guess the type who stole the kit but I feel sorry for all the trades who were done over and lost the tools to run their livelihoods and earn a living just to have their kit thrown in to the back of a container like that.
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Yup, seized and, unless you want to do all the work yourself and a self help/learning project then it isn't really worth repairing. The cylinder will be Nikasil and may well be salvageable...lots about this on my "whats on your bench" thread and then fit a Meteor or Hyway piston if you can get either but use the original circlips. You are probably right on the straight fuel but if the saw has had lots of use, you may have an air leak, split manifold, dodgy seals, split fuel line etc. A decent tech would run through the lot and set the saw up so it doesn't go pop again.....that sorts out the pros from the boys!!
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Yes, there is "compression" and ....."compression"...one is a perceived value, the other is between 150-200psi. Share a pic of the piston through the exhaust port...that should do it.
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Nice job, glad it worked out well.
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Those inlet manifolds are tricky for the uninitiated but always took great care when refitting when I did them. On ring gaps I am old school, 7 thou is nice, 20 thou is getting worn.....20 thousands of an inch = 0.5mm. More critical on single ring machines. You should get 175 - 190 psi with the gasket deleted.....on a cold engine. It is a nice little mod and as Dan said, a relatively easy productive mod - you don't always need to get the timing wheel out to make BIG gains.
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Yup, did a similar conversion on an old Dolmar with a Stihl "Tablet" and it all worked very well. Alchemy I believe!
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Squish...0.5mm is what you aim for and the base gasket delete should be OK without any extra work. I use Carplan Gastite instant gasket as it has a decent temperature ceiling but any decent liquid gasket will do the job. Not sure I would bother with the ring if the end gap isn't too large. On tuning the carb, I usually take the revs down and then lean the carb up until it just starts making the tach bounce off the limiter and leave it at that. It is unlikely you will ever cut anywhere near where the rev limiter cuts in so no issues in doing this and gives a bit of safety margin. When you increase the flow of the engine, it naturally pulls in more fuel as the flow through the carb increases so I have found the carb actually needs leaning down a bit .....I guess you will do a muffler mod as well.
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That sort of damage is usually caused by the oil pump gear being tight and the pinion worm drive then strips as it can't turn the gear correctly so.......why is the oil pump gear not turning correctly? Dirt, cheap/thick oil, oil pump not installed correctly.....
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You can test them with a multimeter when closed, they should go from infinite resistance down to almost nothing when closed.
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Allegedly.....you may thank me if they didn't👍
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Compression OK?
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Probably the clutch bearing has worn badly and not been replaced. Repair - you could try a thorough degrease and apply an epoxy putty like Milliput or JB weld. Is the hole through to the tank or just inconsequential?
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Get them to change the fuel to the "Correct fuel" while you are present and then make your mind up. With machines like this, I usually strip the carb, check the gauze strainer, check and generally raise the needle metering arm like ADW said, make sure all the diaphragms are OK, change the fuel filter and sometimes remove the H&L screws and get a bit of carb cleaner down them. I would normally open the H&L screws another 1/2 turn on how they were set and then try it. Most saws will give in by then and work fine with just a final adjustment to get the revs right. Using Aspen may sometimes require a slight richening of the L screw but the "wrong fuel"....it isn't like you are loading it with coal is it.
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The point on the seals is that I once did the seals on a 460 or 660..a long time ago, I failed to push home the seal so it was level with the surrounding alloy casing and it was enough to fractionally bend the oil pump when screwed down and it was enough to make the oil pump gear very difficult to turn. Your plate being bent up is more likely but if you have tried everything else......
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On the two plates, No31 is by far the most common and if held on by a single screw, it is the one you should use. With the oiler, on any setting, it should always fling oil from the tip off the bar when pointed at a clean piece of wood and revved. Were the replacement parts OEM? Have the crank seals been replaced? sometimes people don't push them in far enough and sometimes they can lock the pump up as it bends the pump when clamped. Is the bar oil hole clear of debris? I have seen seasoned pros wonder why the oiler isn't working and this little hole is blocked. It sounds like the oil isn't flowing in to the bar but is flowing behind the mount plate, just check the surfaces of the bar mount are clean and flat, hopefully the new plate will sort it as it is a pretty simple mechanism and shouldn't give any serious issues.
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Good, thanks for letting us know, glad it is sorted now.
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If the fitted cylinder is OEM and not too bad, I would always try to salvage it and fit a decent quality aftermarket piston if one is available. Take note of Stubbys advice, no point fitting new parts until a vac/pressure check is done and the fuel system is checked out and adjusted correctly after fitting the new parts so the saw isn't over revving.
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The roller I was talking about is the chain roller, not the mower roller.🙄
