spudulike
-
Posts
14,954 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
Making good progress.
-
It would be worth making sure the cutting head is perfectly in line with the handle. Some old axe heads eyes can be a bit off and cause cutting issues.
-
Ah...a project....we look forward to a pic of the finished item!!
-
Your saw has settings for "full choke" where the choke valve is completely closed and the throttle is partially opened," Fast idle" where the choke valve is slightly closed and the throttle is held slightly open and "Run" where both the choke valve and the throttle opener are not used. Most saws bar the Stihl Mtronic ones usually warm start on the "Fast idle" setting which is normal.
-
I think the H screw at 3/4 is probably a bit lean, 1 to 1 & 1/4 is probably more like it but can't be 100% sure without adjusting it myself by ear or with a tach. The L screw is probably pretty much OK. You normally don't do a leak down test by sealing the back of the carb for the reasons you have found...you get spurious leaks from the carb. I usually use a soft rubber blanking piece using the carb to clamp it to the manifold and the carb to seal the impulse as you have.
-
I reckon that putting the choke on is pulling through a lot of fuel which has a similar effect to how you adjust the H screw to keep the revs down at flat out running. The very rich mix will stifle the engine at idle thus keeping the revs down. You have a real big air leak so a split impulse line, a crank seal that is seriously worn/degraded, loose cylinder, damaged crank case etc. It will be that big that it should be quite visible.
-
Getting these axes back up to scratch and using them is a decent and interesting pastime and you always wonder of their past life and hopefully are giving them another 50-100 years if you do a decent job on them. I still use the Fiskars for splitting the big stuff but now have a decent collection of smaller axes for larger kindling. Here is the latest project, another Brades...............
-
No one does a vac/pressure check by sealing the back end of the carb. The engine is always tested by sealing the exhaust port, impulse, plug hole, decomp and the inlet with the manifold fitted, not the carb unless using it to clamp a sealing plate/rubber. You need to input the pressure/vac via a fitment to one of these orifices. The leak around the mechanism will always happen and should only stop an engine idling if there is excessive wear. If you needed to half choke the saw and it has been tested as sealed then your carb isn't providing enough fuel so perhaps the gauze strainer, diaphragms, fuel filter, holed fuel line, tank breather or the carb adjustment has just been too lean.
-
Well...the theory is that if the throttle valve is fully closed and the saw is still over revving, albeit at no load, then the motor must be getting its air from a leak. So...in layman's terms, take the carb off and make sure the throttle valve plate is closing completely....adjust the idle screw to make sure you get very little gap around the brass plate. Ensure the spring is holding the throttle shut firmly and then refit the carb, ensuring that the throttle mechanism isn't somehow being held open. Start the unit and if the revs are still flat out then you have a serious air leak in the engine as if the carb is shut tight....the saw shouldn't even run.
-
Yes but stoves are an easy target, a few old farts and country types getting agitated to the point where we are all forced to use government controlled mainstream fuel sources...gas, oil and electricity...preferably electricity and heat pumps although electricity is 4 times more expensive than gas, big incentive!!! whereas banning lorries....how would we shift the cheap crap imports from our ports to our distribution network and beyond that would piss off too many people. Nothing like going for the easy targets that give nothing rather than the large ones that would be far more difficult to achieve....air travel is one. Perhaps government should tax log burners....now there is a thought.
-
Was the replacement cylinder kit OEM or aftermarket?
-
in short, no, all you can do is to check that the HT cap to coil conducts (it will be high resistance) and then try disconnecting the kill wire from the coil, ensure the coil to flywheel gap is as low as it can be without the coil hitting it and see if it sparks with a new plug. If not, you need a new coil. Always check for spark in subdued light as it isn't always that visible in daylight and give the starter a bit of gusto.
-
Look at the top cover, if it has three holes in the side, it is a normal carb, if it has no holes for the tuning of a carb, it is Mtronic. I did take a look and if it is the one I saw, it was Mtronic - the yellow and red wires going to the carb solenoid showed this.
-
I believe that your saws max revs are 14,000rpm. If you have an ear for tuning carbs on chainsaws, you can tune it by ear. Probably the simplest thing to do is to turn the H screw counter clock wise by 1/4 turn and then check the plug colour is light-dark tan in colour after a couple of hours use. If you know someone or have a Tach then just tune the saw to around 13500rpm and that should do it.
-
Blimey...and that was the good news. Keep on with the updates as many get complacent with safety and hope the next stage in your repair goes well. All the best.
-
As Stubby said, it may just be that the engine is lacking compression. It is worth doing a compression check...anything over 150psi cold is OK and over 145psi warm is sort of OK. 175psi cold would be much nicer. If low, fit a new piston if you can get a new OEM part or decent aftermarket one.
-
If it is an Mtronic then you should be OK. The 261 came out in 2010, at 2015, it could be either model. If the crank bearing has failed in the past then it can take out the hardened surface of the crankshaft and was very common on the non Mtronic saw.
-
But Aldi is German...so Germany then
-
I wonder where it is manufactured.
-
Flywheel puller...Oh my.......just loosen the retaining nut, screw it on so it is around 4/5ths on the end of the crank, lift the saw by gripping the flywheel and whack the nut with a copper mallet hard. The flywheel will come off in 1-3 whacks, you just need strong fingers. The lip on the crank...there is a way but if I told you, the hit squad would be round in seconds
-
Dirty boy....I can't say that I have ever been aroused by a MS460, A 346XP is a different matter
-
Good job, at least it is right now. Makes me wonder about the other outfit though. Glad it all worked out.
-
No worries, hope it helped.
-
30 years is a pretty good saw life on a relatively cheap saw like this. 145psi just shows the saw has seen a bit of life. As ADW said, pop up some pics of the piston through the exhaust port so we can see the state of it. You may try fitting a new piston but up to you.
-
Good, thanks for letting us know that all is sorted.
