spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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And that is how you either learn that you can do this or learn that others are better at it than you!
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That's a strange one, it looks like fine dust has got in past the air filter and taken off the Nikasil but then larger particles have scored the piston. As Adw says, best make sure the mains haven't let loose causing the piston damage and would make sure the air filter is OK as the wear around the inlet port looks like finer particle damage.
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Personally a mix of hard and softwoods is best for me. Get a load of oak by itself and it won't burn well but mix it with a bit of conifer and watch it burn!
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my go to saw is my 50cc 346XP on a 15" bar. OK, it isn't particularly standard but it has great AV, is relatively light and is less likely to cock my back up being the old fart I am. It will handle most stuff up to 24" at a push (cutting either side of the trunk) but probably a 50cc and then a bigger 70cc may be the next step to do larger ringing up as of when necessary. Generally you need the smallest saw that will cope with the job in an efficient manner.
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Worth a bash, just purchase in different thicknesses something like 0.3mm, 0.5mm, 0.75mm and 1mm or just stick to a common 0.5mm thickness that will cover most typical small engine gaskets. It won't cost you much, that's for sure!
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No, it is a very valid point. I get sheets of gasket material off the bay and then cut my own gaskets for specific squish heights or just when I want to get a machine back together rather than waiting a while for a simple manifold gasket. A decent set of hole punches and a hand hole punch is a benefit as is a very sharp craft knife. Very useful when you notice the carb mounting gasket is buggered on reassembly. I don't do the more tricky ones but also useful for discontinued gaskets.
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That's good, pretty much what I found when tuning many of these carb copies. The standard H&L screw settings are 1 turn on each. I suggested 1.5 as it will definitely work and be safe to the machine but as you have found, it is a bit rich on a carb that works OK.
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I purchased a saw with a similar issue and it was a lump of carbon on the squish band. If the saw rotates anti clockwise, will it do a complete revolution? Where is the piston when it locks up?
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Those air filters can look clean but when you split the filter in two and look at them against a bright light, most of the open areas of the mesh can often be blocked.
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Break it down to parts, recoil cover, engine and clutch assembly. If the thing jams, if you remove the recoil cover, is it stuck. If you turn the flywheel clockwise, is it jammed, if it is, remove the spark plug, is the engine still jammed, if it is, remove the clutch and drum, is it still jammed? You need to work out which component is playing up. Possibly the carb is dumping fuel mix in to the crankcase causing hydro lock but the above will tell you where the issue is. If the engine won't turn clockwise, will it turn anticlockwise?
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I have helicoiled heads with them in place but it takes good preparation, skill and care.....stuffing the combustion chamber with cloth, forming a cavity in the cloth to take the tap, using heavy grease to catch all the swarf etc
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Cheap and cheerful chainsaws are rarely "cheerful". I would say that the plug thread is damaged and allowing leakage up between the plug and plug hole. If you put a mix of detergent and water around the plug and pull the saw over slowly, you are likely to see bubbles forming around the plug proving the point. Probably not worth worrying about and may just carbon up in time. If the saw was a better make then helicoiling it would be the sensible option.
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If you like the 346 then you may find the 350 or 345 good. They are like a detuned version, they are a clam type engine but are still nice machines to use. Light and decent AV.
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That looks like a Jonsered 625 or 630 to me. The 630 is the better machine being closed port rather than open port. Parts may be difficult especially for the chain brake BUT, if it has good compression, idles, revs out, oils and the chain break works.....they are decent solid machines and will last if looked after. 60cc, relatively heavy but solid.
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Steer well clear, I had one and as you fixed one bit, another part failed....they are turd! It was one of three and sold the lot for £45 on ebay..utter crap saws. You are far better getting a MS181 or Husky 135 or that type of model or if you are lucky, a Stihl 026 in serviceable condition. At least, with those machines, you can get spares for them and even if they have aftermarket parts on them, you can swap them out for decent OEM parts plus you may get lucky with a decent one. Typical decent machines Husky - 345, 350, 346, 254, 135 etc Stihl - 023, 024, 026 (and MS equivalents) You may get lucky on a decent Dolmar, Echo or Makita as the general public don't know the brands but they are at least decent developed & manufactured machine.
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Mmmm aftermarket...some are good, my blower is testament to that and some are far less then good. Up to you if you send it back or see if it has a blockage somewhere.
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As ADW says, check out the tank breather. I had one in recently where someone had fitted the incorrect parts and blocked the tank breather correctly. Other than that - clean the air filter, the orange ones get blocked very quickly and this makes the AT lean up the mixture to a point the saw is running fairly lean. The only way is non water fluid and an air line. WD40, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, fuel etc. These saws can suffer from worn pistons and the low compression can cause these issues. You usually can tell how good the compression is by pulling the saw over slowly and feeling the pull on the handle. Other than that, the gauze strainer is always a favourite to check out.
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What exactly is "a new carb" Your symptoms are of the carb not delivering enough fuel so the carb is pulling fuel through on full choke enough to fire and then the revs increase because of lack of fuel and if you open the throttle, lack of fuel, kills the engine. If the L speed circuit was OK, the machine would idle, especially on a richer setting. If the H speed circuit was OK, the saw would rev flat out but die on idle. It sounds like a blockage in the supply of fuel or the carb isn't pumping enough up from the tank. If the carb is a brand new OEM Walbro then check that fuel line, tank breather and fuel filter again. If the carb is secondhand, strip it down and check out the gaskets and diaphragms are in the right place and that the metering arm is set OK, the gauze strainer is unblocked etc etc...normal MO!
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I have to say I love mustard, pickles and Horseradish. Mustard is applied to anything with Beef, pork or chicken. Not Lamb...my mum would turn in here grave but pies, meat, burgers, sausage rolls etc....mustard...lovely. I guess it is the yellow marmite.
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Yup, one of our favourites.
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Horseradish...top man, wheres the mustard though!
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You can do a pressure and vacuum leak down test to test the thread and valve. I did find a lot would leak slightly but as I said, I ground them in with fine valve paste, cleaned, oiled and refitted them which worked for me.
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Working away accommodation
spudulike replied to Logrover's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
How about trying some B&Bs? Many ones now are pretty good with ensuite etc. I used to try to use Premier Inn as the rooms were decent and the breakfasts good but that was when they were around £80 a night. Used a few B&Bs and they were often good. Travelodges were cheap but never cheerful. Try Booking.com for prices and reviews. -
Put some bubbly water around it and pull the engine over slowly and see if you get bubbles. The decomp can be re-ground in with grinding paste but clean it afterwards. It looks like it may have been leaking or just used a fair bit.
