spudulike

Try looking at the top AV mount - the one by the airbox. The coil wiring can chafe on the AV mount and then short the kill wire out. 262 - nice machines!!

No, it would run but the idle would be pretty crap from the air leak via the impulse connector. The ones I had in were for stalling and poor running and were deposited to me as such. You have to remember that we are technicians so when we pick up a saw and use it, we get sensory overload from the number of pulls it took to start, the length of time for the idle to settle, the sound of the engine, the pickup of the engine, maximum revs, the sharpness of the chain, the point the clutch bites and starts the chain spinning, the oiler output etc etc When the average guy picks it up they register....it seems like it may run, oh great...it has started.......cut some wood and they are happy it is sort of running sort of. That is why we get machines in that a muffler has "Just fallen off" or..."I think there is something wrong" when the saw looks like it has been dragged out of the village pond!! Our perceptions are very different and we notice all the shyte that would worry others poor heads.

That is Cod wood not Cord wood you mullet!

As the previous post, there are two pins, one each side of the stove and the baffle slides forward pivoting on the two pins and the front edge nearest the front of the stove is pulled down in to the stove until the baffle is out and sitting on the bottom of the stove where it can be removed from the stove.

With these sort of machines, they generally get 1 hour. I check the diaphragms, change if hard, replace fuel lines and fuel filter and this generally will get a machine running if nothing else major is bad...I would obviously check for this before proceeding as you have. If your diaphragms are hard and crispy, it is unlikely you will get them supple again which means the machine will flood or never fuel the machine correctly. If the fuel lines are thin ones, you can often just open up the fuel tank holes and fit quality nytrile Stihl fuel line....an easy and cheap mod. If the machine has a solid shaft, generally it is a good sign but a cable type and or a curved tube means cheap homeowner. If your head is not spinning once running, it may be the clutch shoes are rusted shut. I got an old Zenoah Straight shafted strimmer going around 12 years ago and it still gives decent service.

If in Hertfordshire, Days Bakery do about the best mince pies, not cheap but the best. Home made brandy butter all the way!

Try sticking a bit of Aspen on a cloth and rubbing a greasy work bench with it. It has a real ability to cut through the grease, a bit like brake cleaner does. I would say if everything else has failed then it is possible it could work and worth a go if you have some lurking in your workshop. What sort of ultrasonic cleaner has been used, Was an additive used in the water, Was it a heated? Can it blow holes in aluminium foil? I Usually take pretty much everything off the carb and stick it in for 30 mins, use a bit of carb cleaner, brake fluid and WD40 on it and then do it again and repeat until you are pissed off!

Not again, I will carry on calling you Doubting Thomas!!

It will be the impulse line pulled from the cylinder. I once had three MS260s in over two weeks and ALL had the same issue as this one with similar symptoms. An easy fix and usually happens when the bar gets compressed in the cut and the operator gets a bit enthusiastic pulling it out. As Gareth said - check the AV mounts on the machine to make sure they haven't failed and made this happen. Swap the impulse line out on the next full service.

Yup, that's the one, the sticky brown stuff would get stuck round your teeth. I am trying to remember if they served it with the thin runny custard or not or just evap milk Funny thing is I only remember 1 or two fatties in the whole school. Most were pretty much thin, normal or stocky builds. I guess those puddings didn't do us any harm!

If the FAX doesn't work, try carrier Pigeon and no eating it...it isn't big or funny

Ah....a Kent Dessert....that was where I had it at school and it was sickly for sure.

The only comment on school dinners I have is "What was that Gypsy Tart stuff? I only had it at school and have never seen it before

No change of thought here as I have had them in bits before so know how they are constructed. All they do is to stop any high speed circuit action at idle so the low speed circuit can do its thing by itself. In regards to the "So crud could be either side of the flap to foul the working?" ....Yes, if the valve is stuck shut, the high circuit is shut down making idle fine but revving out near impossible. If you give a blast of carb cleaner down the H screw hole, you should get a good blast out of the check valve in to the carb bore.

My thinking is that with the engine running, there is air flow through the carb so if a venturi in the bore of the carb is open (an open faulty check valve), fuel will be pulled up through it. I know the check valve seals in the other direction but it still requires a reasonable amount of airflow for it to open as it would when the throttle valve opens from idle and enough air flow opens the valve. This is probably like discussing religion and isn't helping the fella fix his carb......like I said.....he is lacking high speed fuel....blocked high speed jet, blocked channel or a check valve that is stuck CLOSED or perhaps a diaphragm issue.

I distinctly remember one MS460 and the saw had no idle but would rev OK but the idle was non existent. I suspected the check valve was shot and a new secondhand carb resolved the issue. All you say about the check valve is correct and perhaps my saying the idle was very rich may have been an overstatement but the check valve breaks the carb in to two distinctive circuits to supply fuel at high and low revs. If the check valve is stuck open, the carb will be pulling fuel through the low speed circuit and high speed circuit so by my reckoning, it will be rich and adjusting the L screw won't resolve too much because the carb wasn't designed that way. The OPs carb may have a blocked high speed jet, blocked channel or a check valve that is stuck CLOSED or perhaps a diaphragm issue. The lack of high speed revs points me to a blocked high speed circuit.

An interesting comment. You could possibly put a mark on the ignition flywheel and strobe it to see if you get any form of advance and retard when the engine is revved....assuming the engine has some sort of advance/retard device or mechanism.

sometimes you can push a bit of soft fuel line against the H screw hole (with the H screw removed) and if you blow and suck on the pipe, you should be able to feel the check valve popping shut and open. Most faulty check valves I have seen are stuck open making the saw run very rich at low revs so it kills the idle and pickup but the saw WILL run flat out. You must have a lack of high speed fuel and that is most likely the high speed circuit from the diaphragm chamber, through the jets and in to the check valve. Have you closely inspected the pump diaphragm? Sometimes small holes in the pump or holed sealing flaps can cause issues.

Heat is building up rather than escaping so that would make me think that the exhaust is a bit clogged up. Bear in mind I don't know much about chippers.

Very true!

Been here over a year now.

Right....I am looking at putting a TV corner shelving unit in and am wondering if any of you fellas either can make one or can supply the cut timber for me to finish. Something like this: - The spec....90 degree corner with both sides being around 60cm making the front approximately 84.8528137424cm long , thickness around 55 - 75mm thick. Wood type - I like the Indian Rosewood (Sheesham) or Mango as they have a bit going on with the grain rather than it looking a bit uniform and sterile but they are a bit exotic so Elm, Walnut or perhaps Oak if there is a bit going on with its grain but open to other suggestions. I am in Norfolk so pick up is probably easier unless you have a better idea. Just PM or discuss but will be looking for some rough pricing to start with to see if the idea holds up. Cheers

The fact it will idle and not go full tilt would lead me to think the high speed circuit is gunked up so taking the H screw out and blasting some cleaner down it may help - check the fluid is coming out of the check valve and in to the main throat/choke of the carb. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, try giving it a good boil with all the accoutrements (H&L screws included) removed. Have you tried undoing the H screw out a few turns....it may work and after a while clean out the shyte blocking it. Aspen can sometimes purge resins in cases like this.

And here: - About us | RHD COC Consultancy WWW.RHDCOCCONSULTANCY.CO.UK Chain of Custody Consultants for PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification) and FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) Certification. Chain of Custody...

It is probably a Husqvarna 66.....that'll learn you