spudulike

Golf are reasonable but swap the circlips out with either the originals or new OEM clips. Meteor are probably the best AM pistons followed by Hyway but have used Golf in the past with success.

The last load of logs cost me a muffler mod, new air filter and ignition advance on a MS151. We are both happy and looks like I may get another load before long....that's the way it rolls round here!

Had a few farmer customers myself. Generally their kit is old and knackered in my experience. There are probably some exceptions but there you go!

Well that's us told.... 🤔

I had the be exact same issue with a Rockwood plug on an MS200....POS plugs!!!

Put the borrowed flywheel back on your mates saw, check it still runs and then swap your bits out one by one on his saw until it fails and won't run. Flywheels that get clouted can lose their magnetism, is the coil gap OK, is the key OK, have you checked the good coil from the plug cap to the coil metal laminate and compared it to yours? What you are coming across is impossible, there will be a logical reason it isn't working.

Blimey, it is all going on here!!

Henry cleans my garage and a fine job of it he makes. A simple vac made in the UK. Everywhere else....Dyson plus a Shark steam cleaner.

Easy Mr Newton.....I will never be workshy.....it is just the type of work that changes!! I could tell you how I do this MM but I would have to exterminate you afterwards.....I guess if you PM me

It isn't like the fella has 25 years of service with the company. Look at the other side where he has a fatal accident on your site or manages to severely hurt another employee and it comes out that he was carrying and the autopsy/H&S investigation finds drugs in his possession and system....doesn't look good. Life is complicated enough without having this sort of bollox waiting to happen!

The MS151 has a typical "Stihl" feel about it and the Echo is typically Japanese. The Echo did have some running issues on idle when vertical but managed to get a fix on that. The Stihl is less "finicky" than the Echo, both are manufactured relatively well, someone mentioned the air filter is better on the Echo but the MS151 does have a nylon mesh air filter available which many are not aware of. Power.....both will benefit from a little work on the muffler leaving you with nice saws...but avoid these silly big pipe mufflers. The Stihl is typically German, the Echo is typically Japanese....take your pick.

Not sure why you are asking. If you employ him, you are condoning drug taking and the consequences whilst in your employment. Only happened once in my past, all three gone within minutes. The correct decision then and the correct one now. If there is an accident on site and this comes out, it could ruin you and your business so why even contemplate it. There is no excuse for drugs and alcohol in a mechanised and dangerous industry! I am taking the assumption the little bag of white powder was drugs and not talc for his athletes foot....ask and take no shyte!!

Probably why Bill Clinton has that sparkle in his eye!!

The MS461 is a decent enough saw and follows nicely on from the MS460 in its weight, design and feel. The one advantage over the 500i is that the 461 is a relatively basic machine and can be maintained without plugging it in to a laptop etc so if you are maintaining it yourself...it is worth considering. Just make sure the top end is OEM and not some old aftermarket crap.

If you are asking about the gear, it is under the clutch and the big hole in the middle is for the crank shaft.

Funny you said that Andy, I did exactly the same, metal pump rather than Karcher cheapening up with a plastic one. My Nilfisk has done the job but don't use it that much so can't really recommend it for longevity but it works well for the £££.

I don't know the state of your saw but when I did get them in, I always looked at the oil pinion gear that has the arm on it that locates on the clutch drum. The arm on these can stop gripping the plastic pinion gear and you get a fall off in oiling. Once I saw this on a couple of machines, I would always check this on all the machines I had in. Yours may well be the solid nose bar issue as Rob D has pointed out but worth checking the oiler pinion for the issue mentioned above. The arm should be a nice tight fit and not move on the pinion without using a bit of force. Pic as below: -

What is the saw? Stubby's oiler idea seems a decent one to me. If it is an 880, let us know as their oilers are a bit fragile.

I used a compressor daily for 7 years to do exactly what you want - pretty low spec stuff. The compressor I had cost be £45 and was a bit of a bargain, nothing flash but does the job. Sure, there are loads out there that are quieter, better made but what is your budget, a lot always hinges on that.....hats off that you are actually using this on your saws...great decision. The compressor I have is one of those generic ones that everyone re brands as their own but is a 24L cheapo special, loads made and pretty reliable and if you want to run a high consumption tool like a big rattle gun, fit a BIG hose rather than a widdly one you may fit to an airline. My first one was a damn more expensive and lasted 1.5 years. This one lasted 3 times that and costed much less.....work that one out. This is the sort of thing...... SGS 24 Litre Direct Drive Air Compressor With Hose Reel - 9.5CFM, 2.5HP, 24L WWW.SGS-ENGINEERING.COM Introducing NEW Air Compressor from SGS - fitted with a special heavy duty 24 litre air receiver complete with a front mounted integral air hose reel holding 10 metres of PVC braided air...

And don't use aftermarket ones as they are pretty suspect at best. Find the OEM parts - L&S would be a good start followed by the likes of Garden Hire Spares and DIY spares etc

Exactly how I drain saws when I get them in and then flushing the tank out if it contains lots of crud....good advice.

I had a look at my chipper and the cap had a hole in the inside centre and it allows the tank to breath up this hole and down the holes around the underside of the inside edge of the fuel cap surround - like the one on the right of your last pic. For interest, try bunging up that breather hole with something and see if it leaks - you shouldn't run it like this but it will be interesting to see if the thing still leaks with the breather bunged up. If it doesn't, perhaps you can get a cap like this with a one way breather.....seems mad but......it is what it is!

And they have a gauze strainer within the carb to do a "belt and braces" filtration of the fuel!

Is it coming out of the breather rather than past the seal? There is a small area on the tank lip that looks a little low but the give in the seal should accommodate that. Will have to check the cap on my chipper to see how the breather functions. You could try swapping seals around on different caps of just pick the tightest cap and use the thickest seal on it. Looks like one of those problems where it really can't be that difficult but it is.

All fuel AND air should enter the engine through the carb. Your carb will have been set up on this basis. When a crank seal leaks air, it can let extra air in to the engine and this will make the saw run hotter at high revs and also cock up the idle. A leaking fuel line may show itself as an engine that just lacks power or won't rev out but if the line has a small leak that lets air bubbles in through the line rather than 100% fuel, this will mean that the carb may not supply the correct amount of fuel to the engine causing the engine to run hot and ........BANG!! It is very possible yours has been just been run on old fuel or the H screw was set lean but, having fixed up more saws than I care to remember, I learnt to do all these checks to ensure returned customer saws worked.