spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Pretty rare for a bearing to fail in such a catastrophic way. I have seen it on 261s and 362s but that is just the way they are....or were when first released and for a few years after. On Husqvarnas, I reckon the outboard clutch makes changing the bearing more difficult and probably puts a bit more load on it and that makes them get a little wobbly over time. I have seen crank wear on old 346s and wobbly bearings on a number of machines just through lack of maintenance. I reckon it is one of those items that should be changed any time the drum or clutch springs are renewed. All machines are different but saws like the 346, 357, 550 and 560 need a little TLC whereas some are just bulletproof in this area. Over-tightening the chain can destroy them pretty fast.
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Fortunately I had the serial numbers.....we always put them on the invoices which has been useful when stolen.
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Pretty common on MS460s but not on much else in my experience.
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If you haven't got the serial numbers for the 200 and 560, I should have them.....just PM me with your name and postcode where I sent the machines to if you need them. Best I can do....right bastard when decent machines get thieved!
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Like I said, classic symptom of a broken clutch spring.
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Just set both screws to one turn out from fully in and see how that goes. In my experience, the H screw on a nicely run in 461 needs to be closer to 1.5 turns out to keep the revs where they should be. The springing back is more likely due to the sealing O ring. It may be better if you lightly lube the screws but it shouldn't matter to the running of the saw if minimal.
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Sounds like a broken clutch spring to me. Check all three and if one is broken, replace all three.
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All my solenoid issues have caused an idle that is too slow and causes the machine to either die on idle or just peter out on idle. Hope it fixes your issues and worth trying. If you pop the carb off to fit it, check out that gauze strainer...always a favourite to cock up an engine running correctly.
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Strange way of using the mower, my wife suggests that he has piles!! Glad the Webbs is up and running. All relatively alike in their own way. I have an Atco Royale a bit like that Ransomes, paint is shyte but the rest of it is built like a tank! just make sure all the drive chains are well lubed in chain oil each use but I guess not your concern now!
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Probably best to plug it in to CST and see what the carb and AT are doing. Possibly a bit of crud in the gauze strainer, possibly the diaphragms need replacing. Worth changing the fuel filter and also checking the piston through the exhaust port to make sure it is clean although Aspen should have avoided and nip ups. Probably best to PM ADW and see if he has time to look at it. It will be a postal job but he knows his stuff. Last thing to check are the clutch springs as if they are weak, that may be why the saw us stalling. Cleaning the air filter....must be an oil based fluid and a blast through with a compressor.
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There should be very little "in and out" movement. Sometimes, so little, it makes removing the circlip a big tight. The drum should have minimal wobble on it if you place a finger on either side of the drum and push alternately.
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Something isn't right if that is the case, perhaps the pinion has worn so the arms are sitting below the rim of the drum but something sounds to be out. I have only seen arms missing the drum on machines with significantly worn clutch bearings typically 261s and 362 Stihls.
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Two things to check, make sure the clutch drum and bearing are in good order as they do suffer a bit of the MS261 issues. If all OK, swap out the solenoid as this is likely to be the issue if the rest of the machine is in reasonable condition.
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OK, by cylinder, I mean the cutting cylinder not the drive roller ...just to clarify. Looking at your machine, it looks like the drive roller and the cylinder are engaged with the loose belt being tensioned by the way of a movable roller pushing on the belt to tension it...same as the drive roller in my Qualcast but my cutting cylinder is engaged with a centrifugal clutch which is different to yours. If either the cutting cylinder or drive roller are engaged all the time, you would normally back off the tensioning roller which looks like you have a slotted hole to facilitate this and if you can't, you need a longer drive belt which may be as you suspect, an incorrect belt. There may also be cable tension adjustment to control the drive on and off control as there is on my mower. .
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Faced with that, I would remove or loosen the belts and make sure the cylinder and the drive roller both turn easily. I would then tension the cylinder belt to see if the motor will spin it and then do the same with the roller. If an incorrect belt is fitted, the belt will slip round the pulleys so the drive can't drive either the cylinder if drive roller. On my Qualcast 17 ( bit like a Suffolk Colt) the tensioner is engaged to tighten the belt to get if to drive. The cylinder is in a centrifugal clutch. Not had a Webb machine in yet...Atco, Suffolk and Qualcast only.
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I think they call it learning. Some try and give up but other more tenacious types don't give up and keep going and learn for the next time, getting better all the time.
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Possibly knocked the spring out on fitting.
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Plum Crumble, the king of crumbles....with custard of course although you could add a blob of ice cream as well....nice!
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I use tote boxes with lids. They are nylon and pretty tough. Got 10 of them off eBay for £75 secondhand ...pretty good deal and most of my workshop is in them now and neatly stored on heavy duty racking. They are from Alibert and look like this: -
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I thought it had passed a pressure/vacuum test after the clutch side seal was replaced or did you cock up the fitting? The one on the flywheel side is generally, pretty reliable. Is it leaking badly as most of the time, small leaks....where you lose pressure or vacuum over a couple of minutes, don't really interfere with running...but, they DO need repairing as it will get worse and slightly old fuel or a carb set slightly lean may cause the saw to go pop.
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A bit high at 20 thou but not massively bad. If you have been rubbing small areas of the bore with wet and dry, you can cause small cavities that can kill the compression. You should be 150-170 PSI on a decent 372XP. You can drop the base gasket and seal with liquid gasket. It is a simple performance enhancement and you will maintain enough squish clearance. It won't sort the issue but it may make the saw usable.
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I was floundering to find something to post as this thread is a load of pollocks, just a load of carping on about fish...again. Reel it in lads...especially those with a chip on your shoulder.
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What does.."Petrol 220t replacement" mean? The 220t is battery with the common Stihl petrol top handles being the MS200t and the MS201..or the MS192 or MS194....or the MS150
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Looks like he has done a private deal as the listing has been pulled!
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Currently £1800.....that is bonkers...even by my standards of loopy!
