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aswales

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About aswales

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    Senior Member, Raffle Sponsor 2013, 2014, 2015

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  • Location:
    Scarborough
  • Occupation
    Self Employed
  • Post code
    YO12 6QZ
  • City
    York

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  1. Some arb association links that might be of interest https://www.trees.org.uk/Careers/Women-in-Arboriculture/Women-in-Arboriculture-Events Try contacting the women in arb group, link below https://www.trees.org.uk/Careers/Women-in-Arboriculture/WIA-About-Us Will find details of allsorts of training https://www.trees.org.uk/Careers
  2. What a thread... There are women in arb...series of articles in essential arb magazine...https://www.forestryjournal.co.uk/essential-arb/ worth a look... Ignoring all the crap....the question is how do you fund and train to get to where you want to be from where you are now ? There are a number of 4-6 week block courses that will get you the tickets to be on the tools...but need a few quid... I've jumped careers before, its never easy... Can I ask what you do at present ?
  3. Can anyone share their experience of buying and owning a 2nd hand Iveco Daily/Mercedes Sprinter/VW crafter van SWB/MWB, 6-10 years old with say 80-100000 miles or so on its clock ? Some of these available as a 5 tonne...
  4. Differences are subtle between all of the shall I say "mahoganys, mahogany type/mahogany substitute" timbers ...have quite a few different bits kicking around.. best people I've come across at identifying are in the timber buying trade......time served and well travelled...
  5. Had a further look at this and some of my books...the most recent photo looks more like a mahogany...now if I reference the book World woods in colour and your cross cut section...Sapele pores are clustered rather than evenly spaced, African mahogany pores are clustered, Honduras mahogany pores are evenly spaced throughout the wood, Iroko pores are scattered and coarser and is browner....might be worth a look at the trada database Perhaps you have a proper mahogany
  6. My first thoughts on this are Sapele or Iroko, both used for this kind of project...I've a staircase made of Iroko and in last few years replaced a porch cill with Sapele...both similar to your pictures if you try cutting with a handsaw, Sapele cuts relatively easy, Iroko a bit harder
  7. Damaged a planer thicknesser roller a while ago and bookmarked a firm called Clifton Rubber, don't know what they are like to deal with... https://www.cliftonrubber.co.uk/ Might be worth a call.. Managed to get a spare part without recovering
  8. Cool...its a great machine and fits so nicely in the hand... Did you buy the M or L version of the hoover ? I thinking of getting one in the future for sander and router and I also need to get something more suitable for the planer thicknesser ...when funds allow...just manage with the record RSDE2 doing both tasks...it struggles planing boards wider than 6" Have you seen these - https://www.scosarg.com/itech-dc001s-1-bag-dust-extractor Seen one of these working at a cabinet makers I know and will do a 12" planer thicknesser according to the spec There's always axminster stuff
  9. Many will post or send on a pallet/double pallet for larger quantities... Try Duffield timber duffield timber.com they are near Ripon and Iroko is a stock item
  10. I use the Mirka Deros with 6 inch pads, it is superb...I connect to a standard record RSDE2 dust extractor that gets used for everything...heard of people connecting these to vacuums such as Henry... Mirka do live hands on demos, they have reps who go to local merchants such as dulux decorator centre...you might be able to get a demo arranged.. The tech support is great, if you have a sanding or abrasive life problem they will help...
  11. There is a book you may find useful - Woodlands a practical handbook, by Elizabeth Agate
  12. Lots can be done with hand tools, saws, brushcutters, chainsaws etc, if budget allows contractors with flail machines can be quicker if access is possible and terrain suitable
  13. Sounds like a good project, lots to do....Before you do anything try and develop a basic woodland management plan, establish short, medium and longer objectives for the woodland, garden etc. If necessary get help with this before you start any tasks. Can't beat a good plan...make a few notes... Decide what you can tackle and what requires a contractor. Allocate tasks and a budget for each year for first few years... Plenty of resources out their to help, forestry commission, small woods association etc https://smallwoods.org.uk/. Become aware of any likely legal requirements such as felling licences, specific requirements for larch , are you in a conservation area etc..plenty of info out their to help... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/tree-felling-licence-when-you-need-to-apply
  14. ITs a good starting point, I did the course with Treelife (Tutor was excellent...) - went to their classroom based course for 12 Mondays spread over 9 months, really enjoyed the experience, met some interesting people and its given me a good grounding.
  15. That's interesting to hear Another point if we do try and get hooked/like a Chinese chain brand we would want to run with it, not suddenly find that you've decided to trial yet another whilst you firm up on which you're going to stock. I'm in the market for some stuff next year, just been doing a review of what I have...even had some talks on some shiny new orange-red-white things... Yet another use for the kitchen.... Arbtalk.co.uk | Discussion Forum for Arborists

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