spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Sounds like blow by - the exhaust gases being forced passed the ring enough to form a brown black haze beneath the ring - reasonably common and not an issue if the piston is OK. The reason for changing the piston would be wear, piston slap, low compression or scoring. If the compression is still OK then leave it and enjoy. The 365 has never been a high comp machine so expect around 145psi on the gauge!.
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Nothing here, I just happened to have a failed saw that wasn't worth the cost of rebuilding from bloke "A" and bloke "B" with a decent top end and the rest of the saw with buggered chain brake mounts only two days old.......was interested in his dissasembled saw, a deal was done between the introduced parties and bingo - put a worker together from the parts. I don't know of any going and it looks like a waiting game TBH as it was in Mr "B"s case!
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It is always the "why the hell did I do that" situations that get us in to these issues. One thing to learn is that when faced with such issues, you listen to that litle voice saying "you shouldn't be doing that" and not ignoring it thinking, I can do it, it may just work...... Get better soon bud, sounds like lady luck was with you despite the claret:thumbup:
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Try it with two MS200s, sounds like a boy racers burn up in the 1980s, these four mixs sound like Sopwith Camels running up!
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I tend to store mine dry, the chain oil is generally OK left in but can go gloopy if two types have been used so flush with fuel if the oiler fails to work well when used again. Pump fuel will harden the fuel lines over a period of time if there is a lack of fuel on the rubber.
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I had one in and turned it from a non runner in to a runner in front of the owner by adjusting the tappets and .........it failed within a week. Don't be fooled, stick 20 hrs use on it and see what it does then!
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Not being contradictory but I would say the L screw will probably need turning out a tad and the idle increasing. Just my experience!
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We have been here before, I am sure of it:001_rolleyes:
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Mg, is that like.......the chemical symbol for Magnesium by any chance:lol: In answer to your question......Yup:thumbup: I do a little chemistry as well - not the illegal type I hasten to add!!!
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Panasonic and Fuji here:thumbup:
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I think that there are many others on this site that could take note of No2, even taking the covers off and using a compressor and a can of WD40 would be a step forward:lol:
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Sorry to be right again but it is pretty much what we did with Mattys, the patch and rivits lasted a few months but we then used a spare set of Jonsered crankcases, I had kicking around, to do the repair - got there in the end:thumbup: Reckon that the alloy must have Magnesium in it if it ignited, earlier car and bike alloys used to do that. Pretty much my experience of welding saw alloy:thumbdown:
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Think the Strat takes some beating on ease of use, nicely shaped IMO the Yamaha Pacifica is a good budget option and sounds/plays very well, the Les Paul rocks and is good for hard gritty sound but always feels less comfortable IMO! Oh yes.............Husky:lol:
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If you bring it in, there will be shipping documents stating the value of the saw, if it is £325, you will be liable for paying our 20% VAT as it is a non EU import and over £10 value so £65 tax and you may be hit with a handling charge as well. As others have said, UK dealers may not work on the saw - a real issue as other saw servicers like myself probably won't have the software or PC interfaces to reset the auto tune etc Unless you can get it sent to family or friends in the US and then import it as a gift....and that still may cause issues, it probably isn't worth it IMO! And a 15" bar on this saw would give it good balance and speed:thumbup:
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I get most of my parts from a Midlands garden equipment and spare part specialist, they have been in business for many years and TBH, I have always had decent service even on out of stock kit. The longest lead time was on an FS380 piston at three weeks but it had to be pulled in from out of the country - most kit comes in within three days from ordering online. The best in the business are Rowena Motors for carb parts - always 24hr turn around and recently wanted an accelerator pump they had no part number for so they matched it from an online link which had images of it - that's damn good service with good value original parts:thumbup:
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Good, glad you like it, the 034 is a bit like the 460 and 440, you do lots of smaller adjustments all over the engine to come together to make a decent difference. It did seem way more sprightly when revved than before.
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It will get pretty hot especially if the piston has been swapped for a new one and the engine is bedding in like on yours. It has been set up correctly so should be fine. The porting makes the saw run much richer than normal so I retune the carbs to between 3/4 and 1 turn out on the H screw. Sometimes they can run a little rich and this can cause hot starting issues - not that often but had it on Stubbys 346 on an 8 pin rim - the extra load was bringing the revs down and the extra fuel caused issues until I leaned it up a little more. If it happens after a long run, let the saw idle for a little after the run to clear any excess fuel. Other than that, difficult to say, check the plug colour! Sorry - just seen it is biscuit brown!
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Yup, over tightening the chain can do it pretty quickly!
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It helped sortig out that breather hole in the inlet manifold - real strange one to have an original part with a manufacturing fault like that:thumbdown:
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If the bearing is shot, don't use the saw as the crank will move too much and start putting pressure from the piston to the cylinder and may cause premature failure of the top end as well. Crank bearings are not that easy a job to do but worth it on a saw of that value.
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Don't know what sort of difference I will get on mine, probably not worth doing as I remember trying yours and it pulled pretty well from what I remember - think I had a vid somewhere....here it is:thumbup:
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My one was the first one I ever ported - yours was done quite recently so benefits from a few years experience:thumbup:
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Take the recoil cover off, hold the nut in the middle of the flywheel and wobble it up and down and side to side. You should feel no movement at all. Also check the fins on the flywheel are all there and that the flywheel isn't clouting the coil. The bearings are usually strong but can be knocked out if the flywheel has a fin or two knocked off. The noise you describe is classic crankcase bearing failure - a sort of hollow echo rumbling noise.
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Had an MS200T back in after refurbing and porting it. Symptoms were down on power and a strange flubbing noise when running. A different carb hadn't resolved the issue but was not convinced it wasn't a fuel issue. When I was cleaning the carb, I thought I would check the plug colour, I hadn't changed it as it was near new and looking at the central electrode, it looked a bit......long:confused1: I went to adjust it and the electrode dropped.......the damn thing was loose so the plug was replaced with a nice NGK one - the original was a cheapo Rockwood Chinese one - Crap! Carb was rebuilt and bingo, full power again:thumbup:
