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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. The 7 pin will give you more grunt and less chain speed, the 8 pin will give you less grunt but higher chain speed. In general, the larger rim will give you faster cutting speed up to a certain size log and then the smaller rim will be faster. On a 20", an 8 pin should fly fully buried. I would imagine that a 24" fully buried, the 7 and 8 pin will be similar. Much depends on how hard you want to lean on the saw!
  2. The vacuum may be for ignition advance purposes or if not, it may be for balancing the two carbs. Removing the choke.....I can only imagine it is for maximising flow or fitting some sort of blower.
  3. There is no need, it over complicates what can be the simplest of engines and makes simple repair very difficult! It was one manufacturers response to the emission issue from two strokes!
  4. Four stroke Stihl engines - most issues are from the valve clearances being too large. Run the engine on part or full synthetic and check the valve clearances regularly otherwise it becomes a bitch to pull over and wont idle!
  5. It is probably 3/8"th, generally 3/8th full profile will vibrate more and take more power but cut faster if you have enough power. 0.325" will be smoother and cut faster on smaller saws and then you have 3/8th low profile....... Again, very generally, the tipping point on 0.325" to 3/8th full profile is around 60cc and larger! Many use just 3/8th to make chain/bar selection easier especially if they make their own loops!
  6. Generally, yes. Many saws just have a baffle plate of one type or another and have no spark arrestor at all but they are more common in dry countries for obvious reasons. They are normally a small sheet of course gauze that covers the muffler exit hole and held in place with a small screw. In my case, it is rare I get Dolmar/Makita kit in hence my comments. The parts list would generally list all the muffler types and list the markets the parts would service. If you haven't got this gauze over the outlet, it is safe to say that your muffler has no spark arrestor.
  7. Perhaps it doesn't have one!!!
  8. Ran it up for a few minutes Christmas Eve and then burnt my wrist on the flippin muffler.....if you can call it that:thumbdown: Sounded good though:thumbup:
  9. No, unless you are cutting in very dry conditions with lots of bracken or similar that may go up if a bit of red hot carbon comes out of the muffler!
  10. You can spend time maximising a low speed, three areas to look at are removing the bell wire from your phone socket, fitting a replacement face plate and getting a router where the SNR can be adjusted. I managed to go from 2Mbs up to 4Mbs.....not much but it is fast around here:001_rolleyes:
  11. I think the part around the outer pipe in the first pic may be the remains of the bearing. The circlip I was talking about was No18 on page 24 (9458 621 1130) and the groove it sits on is just below No 19 on page 24 on the diagram. I deepened this groove and bent the circlip to grip it better. The other circlip is No20 page 24 (9455 621 1520) but forget what that one did. The one I had in to fix had part 18 hanging off the shaft. If one bearing has gone then check the rest. Make sure you mark the end of the black rubber gripped pole that fits on to the power unit as it won't work either way. Two bearings are held in place with rivits, the tubes are all splined so the cutting head doesn't swivel round.....enjoy......it is a bit like one of those baked bean jigsaws:001_rolleyes:
  12. If you get a pic up I may be able to remember how it went back together. I gave up on the parts list and just put my engineers hat on and asked myself why each part was designed like that, what function they played and where it should fit, three attempts and bingo, got it working fine but the repair bill was over £200 although those bearings were around £40 a pop from memory! The guy was happy, think he was amazed how smooth it was and even tipped me.......always nice:thumbup: Just replacing shafts won't fix vibes as it is probably the inner sliding bearings that are failing!
  13. Here is the IPL http://www.m-jardin.fr/wp-content/documentation/stihl/autres/ht130.pdf A pic or part number may help - beware, the parts list is very difficult to decipher as it doesn't make things very clear.
  14. Be prepared to cut a better slot in the shaft to receive the circlip but it is definitely the circlip that has shifted. I did my first one this year, loads of strange bearings and two big springs but got there in the end! These bits of kit are generally abused and the bearings fall apart!
  15. 53 is no age, with the 1980s being my time I am feeling old today:thumbdown: It goes to show, no guarantees in life, enjoy it while you have it and no regrets!
  16. Certain saws still do I believe but it may be me remembering a 385XP I have just ported, the 3120 had a one way valve in the crankshaft exhausting fuel/oil in to the needle bearing.....in many ways, Husqvarna are quite inventive in new technology!
  17. Happy Christmas to all, been to Church for a yodel, had my fill of Brussels:blushing:(paying the price!!!), had some fun presents from the Mrs, four mile walk in the afternoon and now watching TV. A nice quiet one for me:thumbup: Thanks to all my customers this year and a prosperous 2017 for all:thumbup:
  18. Sounds fine to me, noticed the bearing shortness before, nothing to worry about!
  19. Kahuna Burgers to you Flock:thumbup:
  20. Around 1959 I think! Had to be done:thumbup:
  21. I trust you checked the oiler arm was located in the clutch drum slot OK?
  22. Fired up the Mac 1-40 today....that seemed to wake the village up:sneaky2:
  23. Aw bugger, I am in tears now.......must be the alchcohol hic:blushing: Lets hope they get their arse in to gear and soon:thumbup:
  24. I would say that grease compacts with chip and creates a sticky binding compound that makes all these close tolerances tight and if there are a number of them, they make the whole system sticky. Cleaning out regularly will ease the issue, I have probably only seen one clean MS200 chain brake in every 30 or so through my workshop! I say MS200 as I do these machines regularly and always service this part of the machine.
  25. spudulike

    Rick Parfitt

    That's a bit of a shock, you always think that these guys will go on forever, another music legend fades away:thumbdown:

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