spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Castrol R.....luvverly:thumbup:
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Using that theory, if you run a 20:1 mix, you are likely to lean seize the engine:confused1: The real theory is you are keeping the same amount of air and are replacing a small amount of fuel with oil. The oil will help lube the engine and we are talking small percentages and is unlikely to make much difference to the tune of the carb. Leaning the engine usually refers to when the amount of Fuel/oil is reduced giving a larger percentage of air causing a significant rise in temperature due to the extra air making the fuel burn hotter and faster. In your example, you are keeping the same ratio of fuel/oil mix and air and it is just the ratio of fuel and oil that has changed!
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I personally think that 40:1 makes sense as modern saws use less fuel, less fuel means less oil so if you pop more in, it will do no damage and may help the engine stay cooler, keep bearings in one piece and help stop seizure. It is my personal opinion and is what I would recommend but what do I know:sneaky2:
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All the Autotune/Mtronic saws MUST have semi or fully synthetic. Putting red through them increases the risk of seizure and bearing issues. The conventional non autotune/strato saws will run on Stihl HP red and be OK if you need to run it out. The tech - the autotune and strato saws use a lot less fuel, less fuel means less oil so you need to use the higher quality oil....simple!
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What saws/kit are you using? Autotune & four stroke really needs semi or full synthetic!
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The Chatsworth one is worth a punt. Usually these things are full of overpriced poop but this one had gifts from a few pounds upwards and ended up treating the Mrs when we went a few years ago!
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Christmas raffle 2016
spudulike replied to biggarlogs's topic in Arbtalk Christmas Charity Raffle 2015
Yes, in planning and have offered my services again! -
I could bend that flappy bit off and charge you for the benefit Seriously, I would have to square the hole, make sure the surrounding metal was up to it, fabricate a patch that is a close fit and than braze it all around and then do the muffler mod. It would cost as much as a new part - it is knackered, just go and buy a new one! Chances are the repaired one may fail around the joined area!
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It is fooked....and for Christmas, Ian wants a..................
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I am in North Herts so if you need saws, trimmers, strimmers, blowers etc fixed and your local guy is a bit...iffy then swing by for a chat:thumbup:
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No sense of humour:001_rolleyes:
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Aspen , can I use it for any thing?
spudulike replied to Devon&cornwallhedgelaying's topic in Milling Forum
The Yanks use it for competition cutting! -
I purchased a pie maker for Christmas for the other half once....went down in history.....similar to the magic duster and the wok:blushing:
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Repairing that crack will be next to impossible as welding is probably not possible, any glue will crack due to it being a stress point. You could use some gasket material between the bar and cases. If you import from the states, pay the import duty up front otherwise you will be hit with VAT and handling which will stick on £40-50 on to that price - think DHL do it!
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How come I only get rough stubbly blokes visiting my workshop??? Life would be so much nicer if I had a few fit laddiieeessss like these as customers:blushing:
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Look for serials or serial plate but it doesn't mean the saw isn't hot!
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Sadly, the only thing that seems to be wrong with this planet is mankind!
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You can try taking the tank vent pipe off the pack of the air filter elbow, ideally the elbow hole should be plugged if left off but worth seeing if it clears the issue.
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Husqvarna XP oil is fine, semi synthetic and will do the job. Avoid using non synthetic oils!
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Avoid using the decomp and see if that helps!
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Could just be the fuel pipe not sitting correctly or just being a bit low on fuel and the filter being partially submerged in fuel and then being totally submerged once the saw is tilted. Unlikely to be the crank seals on a newer saw, possibly crud in the carb gauze filter shifting around, worth checking the fuel line as I have had a few chafe where it comes out of the tank. Sometimes if the saw is a bit rich on idle it can do it so you could lean down the L screw and see if it helps. It won't harm the saw! You now know what I do:thumbup:
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MS230/250 never make loads of compression even on good running ones. Tend to creep up to 150psi if lucky. The first pull has to be up near the 70-100 mark for it to start and run. It may just be that the reassembly didn't go quite as it should. Typical issues are the carb gaskets being in the wrong order, the metering spring not being seated correctly, the metering arm height not being correct etc. It is also possible the needle isn't sealing correctly or the gauze filter is blocked with dried up scum or gloop from the mushy fuel line. Coil issues are less likely, a nipped up piston is quite possible!
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It sounds like the tank breather tube, it typically connects to the connector close to where the fuel pipe exits the fuel tank and really can't remember where it vents but I think it comes up through the base of the air box and is pushed back in to a hole close to the manifold in the same base of the air box. Get some pics up if unsure! It is just a vent and allows air in to the tank as the fuel comes out. It will still work if there is no pipe at all but may become blocked more easily if left like this!
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A very basic spark test is to bend the end electrode at a 45 degree angle from how it normally sits thus opening up the gap to 5-6mm and see if the coil will produce enough spark to jump the gap. If it won't then there is your answer. It isn't conclusive as it cant tell you if the coil is breaking down under heat during use but is a good first step. I would check the coil to flywheel gap and try closing that down to one piece of thick A4 paper before writing it off. Sometimes the magnets get a little weak and this can get the thing working again! The fast running thing is weird as a faulty coil will usually cause no running or faulting out after a few minutes. The very basic diagnosis is compression fuel and spark, the engine must have all three to work! Fuel systems are the most common area of issue.
