spudulike

I have noticed this with Stihl Mtronic, there is a "choke" setting and a "run" setting and no fast idle so if you miss that pop on the choke setting or don't get to the throttle in time, it floods. I tried starting a MS261 in the run position and the bloody thing kick-backed violently and put it down to the ignition being in the fully advanced position rather than a retarded starting setting. Looks like the guy in the field has come up with another fix for a lack of correct design!

Should have gone Japanese:001_rolleyes: And...the handle is part of the fuel tank - that sorts that one out!

I think the clutch should go back to your dealer and then to the factory otherwise they will not know there may be a possible issue and if that clutch let loose, it may cause a safety issue! In an ideal world, the factory would issue a replacement and then if it was found to be an issue, changes made to the design but I guess they would need to see a few with the same issue to make a rational decision on spending their time and money!

I usually use a pair of well used long nose pliers that have rounded edges and any thin screwdriver is bad news TBH for this sort of reason. Never holed a manifold like this, looks like the guy did everything to make sure the saw leaked air:001_rolleyes:

Had an MS200T in today, the owner had already had a Stihl agent go over it as it had been running erratically and had been fitted with new seals, impulse line, refurb carb etc to the tune of over £200 so expected it not to need too much to sort out the issues. I don't know the dealer but what follows really pisses me off....first thing I noticed was the manifold clamp was fitted upside down:wtf: The next thing I noticed were the seals were installed the wrong way round:wtf: I did the porting the owner requested, fitted new seals and then pressure/vacuum tested the saw, had a slight leakand pushed the bung in the manifold a little deeper, it was better but not perfect and found a slight leak round the impulse line - it wasn't a Stihl one but a larger bore piece of fuel pipe - I use fuel pipe for jobs like this but the CORRECT internal diameter:001_rolleyes: When I took all the bungs out from the pressure and vacuum checks, I checked the manifold and bingo:thumbdown: the guy that had fitted it had stuck a screwdriver straight through what looks like a new manifold and we all know that these things are well over £20:001_rolleyes: I then looked at the "rebuilt carb" and all I found was a new pump diaphragm and no gauze filter fitted, the carb was much older than the resto of the saw which was in very good order, nice paint and plastics. I am not knocking dealers, I am knocking dealers that charge good rates for inferior substandard and damn right incompetent repairs. The chain brake is a safety feature and was bunged full of wood chip and the "repair" could have seized the machine despite the circa five turns out that the carb was set on to make it work:001_rolleyes:. Here are the pics....enjoy

Was the fuel tank damaged? it is the only anomaly on the list that I can see!

Yup, the IPL states the clutch is only available as a complete unit!

Put the old clutch on and see if it cures the issue. Was the clutch an OEM unit or aftermarket? Is the needle bearing OK with no play in it? Is the oiler working OK? Has the bar nose sprocket got any play in it if you hold the sprocket top and bottom and pull it to and forth?

Fix the MS260, not a bad saw although I prefer the 346XP!

Looks straight but if purchasing, I would make sure the top end is original Husqvarna! The guy is selling tools and buying from typical spares sellers on ebay!

Looks like a nice little winter project for you:thumbup:

Yeah, it is your mate Jon.....Mendiplogs:lol:

It is the backbone of the sort of work I usually end up with. Saws others have written off that I bring back to life....bit like Lazurus:thumbup: Normal allen keys may shift it, the two long bolts tend to get pretty locked up, stick some WD40 on the heads overnight and see if it loosens them up, a tap from a hammer may help also!

Either measure the compression or pop the exhaust off and take a look at the piston through the exhaust port. It is possible it has had a seize and is now lacking compression hence the failure to start. You will need to remove the bar and chain to get the muffler off as the support bracket slides in behind the felling dog and is held in place with two bolts as well as the main two that go in to the cylinder. Let us know how you get on!

That all sounds fine then, I don't see any risks with that setup!

Check you have spark, from what you say, it has compression. Is the plug wet after you pull the saw over with the choke on? If not, check the metering arm height and if it is very wet, it may be the needle valve is leaking or the gaskets in the carb are not fitted in the correct order. Worth checking the state of the HT cable, a spark plug with the end electrode bent out at a 45 deg angle makes a cheap spark strength tester! If this doesn't work, get hold of the IPL and check the coil and flywheel part numbers and make sure they are correct to the machine. If this doesn't work....send it to me:sneaky2: and I will stick it on my thread and embarrass your woeful attempts at getting it going:001_tt2:

It is just a MS660 with a smaller bore, same build, pretty much the same saw. There was an aluminium company in the midlands using them to cut aluminium billets and these ones were generally shagged but if you know the history then all is good.

No, the faults I have seen are just design with perhaps infrequent use not helping!

I would say that the partition is just to give the airflow a linear direction rather than letting it swirl in the elbow as the manifold also has a similar partition and this guides the fuel vapour and lower air to the actual inlet port and the upper part is very light on fuel vapour and this is used to load the upper part of the transfers via piston porting. Will it cause an issue - unlikely it will effect performance, more likely it may effect how much fuel vapour is expelled with the exhaust gases which the strato system is designed to clean up. Just make sure the saw is not over revving!

You have ignition timing set by the flywheel magnet position, the flywheel key, the crankshaft and the coil. You also have port timing which is set by the position and height of the cylinder and the dimensions of the piston. If the correct parts are used, the ignition timing can be knocked out by a broken flywheel key or a coil failing. The timing of the cylinder can't be changed without grinding out metal or changing base gasket height. It is more probably that the carb has been rebuilt incorrectly or there is another fundamental error with the rebuild.

It seems all the 088/880s I have had in recently have had dodgy oilers. The usual culprits are oiler arms not gripping the pinion and the gears in the oil pump wearing!

Glad you are still enjoying it, that was a clean saw and a long while ago!

One of the reasons I know is I fitted a Chinese P&C once and the ring snagged on the poor bevelling around the exhaust part!

The 441 has a ring that ends just off the exhaust port stopping it being widened, can't recall if it is the top or bottom one as sometimes you can drop the lower ring to overcome this sort of issue - got one in at the moment, may take a look:sneaky2: The 372XP (pre xtorq) and 357XP that Joe is talking about are superb saws for porting.

Checked the IPLs and both saws share the same air filter elbow - 515 98 29-01. Not sure where you are getting your info from???